View Full Version : Project GT5 Codename:Black Ocylon
Negative Design
8th December 2004, 05:57
Hi, I just finished my 2nd attempt at painting my Case(Chieftec Full server) and I messed it up :( My 1st paint job was worst though.
I tried to do a GT500 themed case and I didnt quite achive it.
I want some advice on what to do next,How do I go about re-painting it and starting over.
thanks.
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01601.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01602.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01603.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01597.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01598.JPG
Sinner
8th December 2004, 06:58
did you bondo and sand before painting? it sounds stupid but seriously did you?
Da_Rude_Baboon
8th December 2004, 09:50
How much was the case? Might save you a whole lot of time to buy a new one and start over and use that one as spares or to experiment on.
Knipex
8th December 2004, 13:24
I agree with the baboon....
Might be easier to start with a new case. Otherwise you need to sand it all down flat. I mean sand everything you neededt go back down to bare metal but hte surface must be perfectly flat. Any marks left now will still be there after you paint it again.
Now for the advice.
Primer. Get a good primer. For the interior you may even need an etch primer to make ot stick.
Lots of light coats rather than a few heavy coats..
Leave enough time to dry between coats. (approx 10 mins between light coats depending on ambient conditions) and leave at least overnight between layers. (ie between primer and paint and paint and clear coat.)
Avoid huge temperature nad humidity changes wile drying. Dont paint in a warm dry room and then throw it outside to dry.
Sandpaper is your friend. Wetsand between layers.
Preperation is 95% of painting. Take your time here and everything else is easy.
A good easy to follow paint guide can be found here.
http://www.pc-workshop.net/articles/paint101/paint101-1.shtml
mnpctech
8th December 2004, 13:42
First, welcome to WizD :)
Second, if you don't have a tripod, use either a broom stick or a pole to steady your camera :blink:
I agree with Rude and Knpx, save time by starting with new case
This is the most comphrensive Case Painting Guide (ftp://ftp.sybex.com/4360/4360ch08.pdf) you'll ever find.
You need Adobe Acrobat to view it.
Negative Design
9th December 2004, 07:35
did you bondo and sand before painting? it sounds stupid but seriously did you?Hi, Thanks for the welcome I appreciate it :)
Sinner, No doesnt sound stupid at all lol,I didnt use bondo..I just recently found out what bondo was...I sanded it but I didnt do it correctly(as you can see lol) This was my second attempt at my 1st mod I have pictures of the 1st attempt but its far worse.
I will use a tripod next time I take pixs.
Primer is paint right? I used touch N tone and enamel,thats the only ones my hardware store had,I bought 150 grit sandpaper too thats also the highest they have.
I cant buy a new case,I just bought this one this month..I'm nearly broke lol.Cost me like 79$ shipped got a good deal off ebay.
I just bought a dremel-like tool can I use it to sand? I used the wrong bit earlier and messed up the lower bezel as you can see in the picture,but I ordered some more sanding bit and will try again.
I have 2 dummy case I can use but they are different models and sizes.
Thanks.
*Edit* I just read the paint guide(SYBEX) and this is JUST the thing I was looking for,thank! :)
one last question,is bondo the same type od material you fill hole with in walls? IE:holes from nails etc.. its a smooth claylike substance,if so then I'm sure my dad has some.
toby
9th December 2004, 09:05
sounds like you need the right tools to do the job, primer and decent sandpaper are a must, id sand byhand because the dremel will only do a small area and you wont get an even result, if you follow the guide and ask plenty of questions you should be able to turn that case around with a lot of hard graft.
Negative Design
9th December 2004, 09:17
sounds like you need the right tools to do the job, primer and decent sandpaper are a must, id sand byhand because the dremel will only do a small area and you wont get an even result, if you follow the guide and ask plenty of questions you should be able to turn that case around with a lot of hard graft.I'm going to the Hardware store and look for all the tools you guys mentioned above.Hopefully they wull have em,So to remove the paint job on metal I just need to sand it? and to be 100% sure 150 grit wont cut it right?
Also,Can I use the sandpaper I used earlier? or Do I need a new one.
heres something else I forgot to mention,I want to go ALL the way with this mod.. I want to emulate the GT500 style hood as well and side fins and possibly the grill too...what can I use for this?
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Fiberglass/eleanor-kit.htm?OVRAW=GT500-E&OVKEY=eleanor&OVMTC=standard
fillip
9th December 2004, 13:37
150 grit is far too coarse. I wouldn't even use it for stripping paint off the case before you start painting since it will leave really deep cuts to the surface.
I believe the guide posted above by Mnpctech has all the relevant info. you need on materials so i'd suggest a read through, but there's no point in even attempting it again until you got the right gear.
And yes, start with everything new.
[EDIT] See page 13 of the guide onwards for info. about sanding. ;)
Negative Design
9th December 2004, 17:43
150 grit is far too coarse. I wouldn't even use it for stripping paint off the case before you start painting since it will leave really deep cuts to the surface.
I believe the guide posted above by Mnpctech has all the relevant info. you need on materials so i'd suggest a read through, but there's no point in even attempting it again until you got the right gear.
And yes, start with everything new.
[EDIT] See page 13 of the guide onwards for info. about sanding. ;)
Well damn...I'm screwed then lol I made many scratches on the case and bezel thinkin the paint will cover it...
I learn a lot of new stuff on page 13..that guide is a modders dream :) If only I had it before...and hadnt rushed it lol.
By everythin new do you mean the case too? I can get everything but the case.
Is there a website where I can get all my materials? my Hardware store doesnt have anything above 150 grit,no auto-paint I need a place with more supplies.
Thanks.
jedimas729
9th December 2004, 20:00
If there is a walmart nearby then you aer set because you can get just about everything you need at walmart including bondo, high grade sandpaper, all sorts of paint, and most of it will be cheap! If not then is there a discount auto place around because they also stock sandpaper, paint, and bondo!:D
Negative Design
9th December 2004, 20:30
Im leaving right now to go look for auto shops or any store that has these supplies,no Walmarts in my area...but I'm not a fan of them anyways lol.
mnpctech
9th December 2004, 21:35
You probally left already, but look under "Auto Body Supply" in Yellow Pages.
fillip
9th December 2004, 21:46
Don't buy a new case, it's still recoverable you just need to do some filling and sanding and you'll be right.
You'll feel a whole lot better if you rescue the case rather than start frm scratch again, but buy new sandpaper (all different grades as mentioned) filler, maybe even paint since you've probably used a lot to try and fill in the cuts.
Negative Design
10th December 2004, 00:39
Alright guys I got alot of the stuff on my list...
Got bondo,Rubber sanding block, and 220 grit Sandpaper :)
It was a paint shop...they have clear coat primer etc...but I couldn't get them becuase I needed an ID :( since I was going to gym then to paint store I forgot all about ID so I'll get the rest tomorrow :)
The store clerk asked what type of primer I needed...and I have no idea what type I need...any ideas?
I'm going to start sanding the case soon and this time I'll follow all your wise words :D
Oops! made a mistake its not 220 grit its 600.
Negative Design
10th December 2004, 01:32
Theres one part of the case that is 100% its the side of the case I will add a window too,I wanted to put window on it before I paint/mod it
I used a mini-tripod to take the pic :)
Before I paint case I want to add a radiator to the top from the inside,I tried drilling a hole for the screws but nothing would puncture the this hard (SECC) metal..what methods do you guys use to make holes?
BuffaloBoy
10th December 2004, 04:13
You'll need a drill bit thats capable of cutting through steel. A wood bit won't cut it, literally :lol:
And you'll need to be careful when drilling, just before the bit breaks through the steel, it'll try to grab. If your drill has a "high" and "low" gear, set it to High and dont let off the trigger until the bit breaks through.
Also, if you don't already have one, get a jigsaw. With the amount of money you'll spend on cutoff wheels for your Dremel to cut up this steel case, you could probably buy a decent jigsaw and some metal blades. Not to mention that it'll cut quicker and make less mess. If you're careful a single bi-metal blade will last you the entire project.
Negative Design
10th December 2004, 04:21
You'll need a drill bit thats capable of cutting through steel. A wood bit won't cut it, literally :lol:
Well said :D lol
Too late to buy a jiggz... I bought the dremel just for this project too...just bought 125PC bit set off ebay(10$ shipped) So I'll have many spares :) bought quality ones too like found in MnPctech dremel guide.
I'm not sure I have a metal cutting drill bit..I just used a screwdriver to try and gt a hole and then unscrewing it lol:lol:
Fibbles
10th December 2004, 04:35
I made my first radiator cut with a Dremel, it took hours and came out pretty rough and jagged, even after I sanded most of it. I didn't even kill the whole cutting disk, so i shouldn't have bought 2 10 packs :(. When I did my last rectangular cut I used an old and dying Black and Decker jigsaw. The cut was pretty darn straight and only took 20 minutes. Sanding was really easy and the cut is smooth as a babies bottom. A jigsaw is a lifesaver! You could just save up for one :)
Negative Design
10th December 2004, 04:44
I made my first radiator cut with a Dremel, it took hours and came out pretty rough and jagged, even after I sanded most of it. I didn't even kill the whole cutting disk, so i shouldn't have bought 2 10 packs :(. When I did my last rectangular cut I used an old and dying Black and Decker jigsaw. The cut was pretty darn straight and only took 20 minutes. Sanding was really easy and the cut is smooth as a babies bottom. A jigsaw is a lifesaver! You could just save up for one :)
Dang...more money in the hole! lol well ok then I'll get one :) their only like 5$ on ebay saw a Black/Decker one go for cheap...like everyday.
Buffalo,I just searched through my dads drill bit box and saw a many bots...bit the gold one looked strong so I used it and VOILA it cuts through metal and very nicely too and it got stuck a few time as you said lol...I could finnish the whole cut because its late here and my parents are complaining :(.
mnpctech
10th December 2004, 15:45
Negative Design, I've moved your thread to Chop Shop (http://www.wizdforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=975) :)
Negative Design
11th December 2004, 00:50
Negative Design, I've moved your thread to Chop Shop (http://www.wizdforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=975) :)
I'm honored, Thanks :)
I got the primer,220/500/80/grit,clear coat,gloves,marker and more and have started sanding the side panel.I wont paint this panel,I plan on making an etch on it and then paint.Still testing my sanding technique...arms hurt now :( I'll add pix later.
I recently met a problem...I will be putting my radiator on top...but I've forgot about the hole...so that means not all of the top will be painted :( and I'm not sure if I should paint first or cut 1st...but I will sand it in the meanwhile.
BuffaloBoy
11th December 2004, 01:03
Cut first! Otherwise you'll have to worry about chipping your nice paint. Get your cuts done and filed down the way you want, then prepare the surface and paint.
Negative Design
11th December 2004, 01:12
Cut first! Otherwise you'll have to worry about chipping your nice paint. Get your cuts done and filed down the way you want, then prepare the surface and paint.
yea..thats a problem :( my drill bits wont be her for a few weeks :( or I'm gonna have to find a new spot for the radiator.
Negative Design
11th December 2004, 21:18
Added some pix of bare metal..sanded flat I'd say about 90% flat.
I'm going to attempt to sand the rear too...as hard as that may be :(
zer0
12th December 2004, 01:28
the top looks a bit rought but the back looks nice.
Negative Design
12th December 2004, 01:32
the top looks a bit rought but the back looks nice.
Yea that was from the previous paint job...I didnt clean it before I painted,this time will be completely different.
JBM
12th December 2004, 15:17
If you sand it 90% flat, you will have a 90% shine :unsure:
Negative Design
12th December 2004, 19:29
If you sand it 90% flat, you will have a 90% shine :unsure:
there sre some parts that cant be flattened even my 90% estimate is not accurate there are a few small spots that I used the dremel with on my EARLIER paint job and those spots cant be even but its such a small problem.
I havent been on my case mod for a while now :( been busy messing with my new water cooling system and TEC...and been tryin to catch a scammer too lol long story :)
I'll finish the rest of the sanding today and see if I can optimus Prime this baby:D
zer0
12th December 2004, 23:38
try useing bondo to fill up some of those scraches. as he said the flatter you get it the shinyer it will get.
Negative Design
13th December 2004, 00:09
bondo cna be used on metal too? err nevermind...the picture shows it being applied on a mustang..lol damn and I thought it was for plastic:blink: lol
maybe I can make fins with bondo..wat do u think? GT500 style fins and front hood...:h34r:
Negative Design
20th December 2004, 05:51
I think I screwed up bondo job...
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01625.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01624.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01623.JPG
zer0
20th December 2004, 06:59
well the only way i know of to fix that is to sand it down as somoth as you can.
Negative Design
20th December 2004, 07:08
well the only way i know of to fix that is to sand it down as somoth as you can.
oh ok will do :)
JBM
22nd December 2004, 00:51
Sand it back down to the original surface, being careful to use a fine sandpaper to finish it.
If you have bad sand scratches, try to wetsand them out with 800 grit, or get some red putty.
Dont forget to use a sanding block and be patient. If it feels like you are doing something wrong, it is easier to stop and throw up a post here.
fillip
22nd December 2004, 00:54
It's definately not screwed, just needs some TLC and you'll be right.
Filler makes a mess when applied that liberally, but you're can hack most of it away with sanding and you've still got the shape of the case to follow as a guide. But yeah, any doubts, throw a question up here.
Negative Design
22nd December 2004, 00:55
Sounds good,do you suggest sanding the insides too? of the case.I will begin priming soon and do the bondo sanding later.
heres some pix of insides http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01621.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01622.JPG
JBM
22nd December 2004, 00:55
I found it alot easier to never spread bondo once it has reached the point where it doesnt spread too well.
If you notice by your dec. 19 2004, in the first pic, that bondo was too hard to spread well, and i would throw it away and make a new batch.
JBM
22nd December 2004, 00:56
Sanding the inside of the case? The frame or the inside of the panels?
fillip
22nd December 2004, 00:56
Sounds good,do you suggest sanding the insides too? of the case.I will begin priming soon and do the bondo sanding later.
I doubt it would need it. A decent primer will probably stick to it but there's no harm in sanding it if you want.
Negative Design
22nd December 2004, 01:01
I say sanding the insides because its painted red but only one coat so it chips pretty easily.
fillip
22nd December 2004, 01:03
I say sanding the insides because its painted red but only one coat so it chips pretty easily.
In that case a light sand to remove the majority of the red, flaking paint then a couple of coats of primer.
Negative Design
22nd December 2004, 01:04
In that case a light sand to remove the majority of the red, flaking paint then a couple of coats of primer.
Alright,I will sand as much as I can but I wont be able to reach all the areas :(.I will prime the outer core 1st I dont wanna waste primer on the inner because the outer matters much more.
fillip
22nd December 2004, 01:06
the outer matters much more.
As always! ;)
Negative Design
24th December 2004, 02:04
More pix...looks and is much more smoother than it appears on camera.Gettin ready to prime it soon too...I think I've achieve that feathers edge :)
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01630.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01631.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01632.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01634.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01635.JPG
JBM
24th December 2004, 03:04
Keep sanding. ALL the way to the plastic. On the whole bezel.
The only bondo you should have left is the bondo in the sand scratches you were trying to fill.
It will sand pretty quick with 220 grit paper. Switch over to sometihng like 600 grit paper when you are almost to the case surface. And keep going with it until you have removed all of it. Its the only way you will get a perfectly flat surface for primer.
If you dont have a perfectly flat surface, it will be a very wavy paint job, and you will be disapointed.
I use a sanding block as much as i can, even on a contoured area. Go left and right and up and down on a radius.
Negative Design
24th December 2004, 03:07
I thought I had to leave the bondo on?:confused: :confused: well...if u say so,I'm gonna go sand now :(
JBM
24th December 2004, 03:10
I will re read the thread and look for that, but i, myself, wouldnt not leave that much bondo on an area that didnt need any repair.
JBM
24th December 2004, 03:25
Take a look at some of the edges of the bondo on this pic . Notice how after it is sanded (perfectly flat i might add) it looks transparent?
When your bondo is looking like that, i would switch from using a 220 paper to a 400/600 wet/dry paper and take it all the way to the original surface. You dont want to use the 220 on the plastic or metal or whatever it is. It will scratch it again.
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1361297DCP0424(Medium).JPG
Negative Design
24th December 2004, 03:28
Take a look at some of the edges of the bondo on this pic . Notice how after it is sanded (perfectly flat i might add) it looks transparent?
When your bondo is looking like that, i would switch from using a 220 paper to a 400/600 wet/dry paper and take it all the way to the original surface. You dont want to use the 220 on the plastic or metal or whatever it is. It will scratch it again.
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1361297DCP0424(Medium).JPG
Damn...thats a nice bono job man! way better than mine lol,I see what you mean though luckily I go tsome 600Grit.
fillip
24th December 2004, 11:55
You can also guage how flat the surface is before finally applying your paint by using a very light dusting of a black paint or very dark primer. If you spary some ever so lightly (as i say, just a dusting) over the surface then sand with 600+ grit paper, it will leave paint in any imperfections in the surface and gives you a clearer piccy of how the surface is.
Negative Design
24th December 2004, 14:48
You can also guage how flat the surface is before finally applying your paint by using a very light dusting of a black paint or very dark primer. If you spary some ever so lightly (as i say, just a dusting) over the surface then sand with 600+ grit paper, it will leave paint in any imperfections in the surface and gives you a clearer piccy of how the surface is.
I used my finger to feel the smoothness of it but your method's good too :) Also used a marker to view flatness.
fillip
24th December 2004, 20:18
I used my finger to feel the smoothness of it but your method's good too :) Also used a marker to view flatness.
Cool man, whatever works, method I suggested is just one thats commonly used and acts as a better guide than feeling the surface alone.
Negative Design
25th December 2004, 05:28
Sorry for not updating..but I'm in the middle of catching a scammer by the name of DISDABOIPHO/CHN1215 chris Nguyen of 416 lakeside BLVD Tx.......
I would like to post more on this issue but theres not off topic category :(
any way..I will be gettin back to the case later on for a few mins,and I will doing your method Filip.
mnpctech
25th December 2004, 14:21
^ :confused:
Negative Design
25th December 2004, 20:14
^ :confused:
Sorry if I threadjacked my own thread lol I'll get some updates on the case today :)
I finished sanding the bondo,its opaqe as JPM said and pefectly flat too :)
Merry C-mas btw everyone :)
Negative Design
30th December 2004, 00:43
Got more pix! :) added 1st second and 3rd layer pics of each shown,I got my window kit too.Just received it and will be installing it soon...I got a top window kit too(bought this before I wanted to do stripes)I'm think of putting the top window on and not striping the plexiglass but strip around it...OR I could stripe the plexi too...any ideas?
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01636.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01637.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01638.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01639.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01640.JPG
And more...
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01641.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01642.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01643.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01644.JPG
Will wait about 36 hours before I wet sand and will wait 48 hours after paint.
fillip
30th December 2004, 12:53
How about you paint the stripes upto the window and then instead of painting onto the perspex etch the stripes onto it instead, so you'll still have continuous stripes across the top, just the method used to achieve them will be different. Alternatively, use some window tint to put the stripes on the window rather than paint or etching.
mnpctech
30th December 2004, 12:57
I like fillip's 1st idea.
Good to see this one coming along B)
Negative Design
30th December 2004, 19:10
How about you paint the stripes upto the window and then instead of painting onto the perspex etch the stripes onto it instead, so you'll still have continuous stripes across the top, just the method used to achieve them will be different. Alternatively, use some window tint to put the stripes on the window rather than paint or etching.
perspex? How does one go about doing that :D ? Maybe I could draw an actual GT500 on the window or some kind of design.
fillip
30th December 2004, 19:16
perspex? How does one go about doing that :D ? Maybe I could draw an actual GT500 on the window or some kind of design. Perspex = similar to plexiglass/polycarb (I think it's more of a UK term but I tend to use it interchangeably with all the above)
You could have whatever you want on the window, though if you wan't a piccy of a GT it maybe a better idea to send the window and your pic' to someone who can etch the window with a laser - correct me if i'm wrong but I think FrozenCPU offer this service.
Though you could always just trace the outline of a GT and a few simple to copy details, and then etch those with a dremel, especially if you don't have the cash to spare for a laser etch.
As for doing the stripes, that would be pretty easy to do yourself. Just mask off the stripes on the underside of the window and either use the dremel etch attachment or more suitably a sanding block with 600-800 grit paper and just sand length ways to 'scuff' the surface giving the appearance of an etch.
I'm starting to question how good thick stripes etched on the window would look though, despite the endorsement of one of the best in the business. :rolleyes: ;)
JBM
30th December 2004, 21:01
Perspex = similar to plexiglass/polycarb (I think it's more of a UK term but I tend to use it interchangeably with all the above)
Maybe like lexan. I got a piece at Home Depot, and it had a protective plastic on it too.
for a car theme case i was wondering how "we" could get a goodyear racing tire as case feet. Would be cool me thinks :D Would be cooler if they actually rolled ^_^
Double, triple, and quadruple check that the surface is flat, and that you wont have any sand scratches showing through your finishing paint....
I skipped off of my superman cutout with the dremel, it left a little scratch, and i thought that the paint would cover it up....nope, had to redo the whole paintjob...for one little scratch.
Another time i was cleaning my mesh with laquer thinner and the bottle fell off the edge of the cabnet and squirted on my side panel....
Preperation and a clean work area will save you time and produce better results.
I found out that when wetsanding, nothing, and i mean nothing, not the floor, not a chair, not the table, not my shoes, not anything has dust on it, let alone sand.
Ask me how i found this out.,....:rant:
zer0
30th December 2004, 22:45
for doing the stripes on the body of the case i think the quickest and easyest way would be to run two strips of tape perallel to each other and paint in the middle that way you get a consistant line with no weird defects.
just a simple tip from me...:mellow:
also about the window idea
how about you put this logo on the window makeing it as big as you can
http://www.thecarsource.com/shelby/1967/images/67logo.jpg
also after you got the primer on there it looks much better. good work.
Negative Design
8th January 2005, 03:21
omg! that F*ckin sweet man! I love that cobra!
sorry for late response btw,I didnt get an email! lol
I got more pix too...
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01662.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01663.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01664.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01665.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01666.JPG
mo pix... is one coat of primer enough for inside?
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01667.JPG
I will seriously cinsider that cobra! I need to practice my ecthing 1st tho.
JMB, there are sand scratches how do i eliminte em? or do u mean on plexi only?
Filip,I'm goin 100% DIY or nothin at all lol I'm not gettin any parts or anything made y anyone but me :)
Last question :) ...how long do I keep the painters tape one after striping?
JBM
9th January 2005, 01:21
No, the plexi shouldnt have any scratches on it. If there is a scratch that you can see through the widow, but a new piece.
Where are these scratches? If its on the outside of the case, wetsand with 800.
If its on the frame, i wouldnt fix them.
Negative Design
9th January 2005, 01:29
No, the plexi shouldnt have any scratches on it. If there is a scratch that you can see through the widow, but a new piece.
Where are these scratches? If its on the outside of the case, wetsand with 800.
If its on the frame, i wouldnt fix them.
there are no scratches on Plexi its stillin it protective packaging,I misread what you said and thought your talking about the metal parts which there are scratches on,sanding created scratches I cant remove em :(
Negative Design
10th January 2005, 03:27
Got more pix :) painted insides now and inter panel plastic bezel for which I will show pix of later.There is some nice reflections on the black as well,but thats common in black.also,keep in mind pix dont capture the images 100% it looks better in person.
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01671.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01678.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01679.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01680.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01681.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01682.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01683.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01684.JPG
Preparing for stripe process next and lower bezel fabrication...dont know what design to put there..any ideas? :D
Negative Design
10th January 2005, 03:28
And more, Couldnt post all pix in one reply had to do 2.
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01692.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01705.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01706.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01707.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01708.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01709.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01710.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01711.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01712.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01713.JPG
Negative Design
11th January 2005, 07:17
I want to put this imagehttp://www.thecarsource.com/shelby/1967/images/67logo.jpg on my fron bezel...anyone know ow I can do it? I would like to use this outline and spray it onto the lower bezel somehow...
I cant find a better resolution of that pic either,I dont thinkI can dremel it on my platic bezel without melting it too.
Starbuck3733T
11th January 2005, 18:09
Look for brush on, spray on, peel off mask @ your hobby shop.
Negative Design
11th January 2005, 18:16
Look for brush on, spray on, peel off mask @ your hobby shop.
Thats the exact name of it? I'm goin to look for it 2day.
I've also made a nice window cut yesterday,It was a practice cut so I didnt show pix.I will do the cut on my main case today....for those who are good with window kits,how do you actually get that thing in there :confused: it seemed impossible I cut the circle almost perfectly too and filed.
Negative Design
22nd January 2005, 04:34
primed 3 layers today and will prime the back side tomorow.
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01734.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01735.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01737.JPG
http://www.bbpix.com/pix/DSC01738.JPG
zer0
22nd January 2005, 05:34
looking good hope you have good luck with that window.
Negative Design
22nd January 2005, 05:52
oh yeah, I 4got to mention,I got some modders mesh today and after buying it I realized I could use modders mesh instead of using the plexi,plexi aint gonna fit anyway :(
But im gonna have to buy 2 more meshes becuz the one I bought 2day is for another cut im planning on.
mnpctech
22nd January 2005, 12:48
Negative, get yr self a rounded side file (medium grade) next time so you can file down any jaggys in your curvy and straight edge cuts :)
Negative Design
22nd January 2005, 17:13
Negative, get yr self a rounded side file (medium grade) next time so you can file down any jaggys in your curvy and straight edge cuts :)
I used the dremel to file it down,it looks more jaggy then it is;)
dang camera seems to love picking out the bad parts of things lol,besides it will be covered by mold it wont be seen :D
Knipex
22nd January 2005, 17:24
besides it will be covered by mold it wont be seen :D
Very valid point....
Nexxo
22nd January 2005, 21:21
...besides it will be covered by mold it wont be seen :D
Yeah, but you'll know it's there. Won't that start bothering your obsessive modder's mind? Hmmm? :p
Negative Design
22nd January 2005, 21:27
Yeah, but you'll know it's there. Won't that start bothering your obsessive modder's mind? Hmmm? :pnope not at all :D
Can you see it in the pic;)
Oh yeah, I just bought some 3M double sided tape..damn thing cost me 3$ and it short as hell!:mad: also got some liquid nails...gonna use it for restoration project:D
zer0
23rd January 2005, 03:53
im sorry but are you useing a motherboard to hold that up eek ARE you CRAZY!
Negative Design
23rd January 2005, 04:37
im sorry but are you useing a motherboard to hold that up eek ARE you CRAZY!
Yes,I am..and YES I am:eek:
thats my dead NF7 so dont worry about it lol,thats the same mobo I posted on my TEC thread remember :D^_^
Pug
24th January 2005, 21:56
Thats the exact name of it? I'm goin to look for it 2day.
'Frisk film' is (or was) what you're after, I believe. :)
Negative Design
24th January 2005, 21:57
Thanks, no hw stores in my area have it gonna ahve to check online.
Negative Design
27th January 2005, 23:29
Help! :eek:
I dont know if this pic is do able,I want to dremel this image onto my non windowed side not an etch but a cut and use modders mesh to cover it,but the image appears to be an "island" any ideas of how I can cut this image without doing a full circle?(removing the whole image)
damn...BBpix can realy suck sometimes :I
http://img102.exs.cx/img102/2998/neweleanor010ty7oi.jpg
fivecheebs
27th January 2005, 23:37
Invalid referer .... you need to fix the pic, probably host it yourself is the best idea.
mnpctech
27th January 2005, 23:44
the image appears to be an "island" any ideas of how I can cut this image without doing a full circle?
An island?... huh, looks like a modified "shelby-esque" stang to me.
If you can cut that image into a window, I'd be very impressed.
I mean yeah, its doable, but you would lose a lot of detail. You need to transisition and redraw it in silouette design like this tank
http://www.mnpctech.com/w.Tankwb.jpg
btw: try photobucket instead
Negative Design
27th January 2005, 23:48
an Island means the image will be cut....err nvm lol
I dont want to cut that image into a window I want to cut it into a non window panel(metal) and use modders mesh similiar to this http://jesder.com/sinfest/4drag1a.jpg and the hexxaploza cut http://www.mnpctech.com/meshbanner.jpg
mnpctech
27th January 2005, 23:51
yea, I know what ya mean, in da panel.
got photochop? play around with the brightness and contrast adjusments
Negative Design
27th January 2005, 23:53
I played abit and changed it form color to greyscale thought that would be enough lol.Im gonna see what I can do.
Oh I see,I remember that tank mod(real nice :))
Bbpix always worked here before ever image I posted here were from them Im gonna try photobucket now.
Negative Design
28th January 2005, 00:19
hows this http://img36.exs.cx/img36/614/neweleanor010t4jc.jpg
fillip
28th January 2005, 00:24
Still think it's too unclear to make a decent cut from it. http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/unsure.gif
mnpctech
28th January 2005, 00:43
Negative, can you post the orignal color version of the photo? The shadows in this picture really make it tricky to work with.
Negative Design
28th January 2005, 02:06
Heres the original http://img187.exs.cx/img187/5214/neweleanor0103qd.jpg
And I will do this one on the plexi http://img187.exs.cx/img187/5171/neweleanor0036qw.jpg
zer0
28th January 2005, 02:23
if you can get your hands on photoshop (even a demo will do) you can fo though the filters and find the one wich has the BEST lines. i would do it but im in the process of setting up gentoo on my system. (linux pwns http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Negative Design
28th January 2005, 02:25
if you can get your hands on photoshop (even a demo will do) you can fo though the filters and find the one wich has the BEST lines. i would do it but im in the process of setting up gentoo on my system. (linux pwns http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I've been using Ps all this time...I suck at Ps :( I used the photocopy filter for the image I used earlier.
mnpctech
28th January 2005, 03:54
I'm playin wit it in photochop. Half the car gets washed out because of the shadows. So a lot of it has to be redrawn.
Also, a lot of the stang's features do what we refer to as "float". For example, the wheels are not attached to anything so you'll have to cut those portions out and attach to window surface. Understand what I mean?
I'll keep playing with image over weekend. If anyone else wants to try and help, go for it :)
Negative Design
28th January 2005, 03:57
I'm playin wit it in photochop. Half the car gets washed out because of the shadows. So a lot of it has to be redrawn.
Also, a lot of the stang's features do what we refer to as "float". For example, the wheels are not attached to anything so you'll have to cut those portions out and attach to window surface. Understand what I mean?
I'll keep playing with image over weekend. If anyone else wants to try and help, go for it :)Thanks, In the meanwhile I'll be working on my window cut...now where did I put my rulers :( lol,I'll be takin out all the round edges...well I try...
And nope,dont know wat ya mean.there is no window either only the second image will be used for window.
duhwht
28th January 2005, 12:21
FWIW ,
I would take what mnpc said and go a step further to make the whole car float. which would lead to a few other neat options as see through windows , color taillights , and things of that sort.
Something to this effect , But i would definately refine the cut pic more.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/duhwht/mustang.gif
fivecheebs
28th January 2005, 12:49
ooh nice idea ...
/me imagines a polished bit of side panel for the filler cap and wheels
It would be hard to know when to stop though.
mnpctech
28th January 2005, 15:12
Nice enterance to WizD duhwht :)
duhwht's design would be a nice window etch design, but the center the car and wheels would fall out if you attempt to cut it. This can be elivated by breaking up the lines with spaces (or dashs) like this
___ ___ _____
The black lines represent the actual cuts with the dremel disc. Make a space wherever lines intersect so the metal (or panel) acts as support
Negative Design
28th January 2005, 19:42
Welcome to WizD DuhWht :) a nice pic indeed but I would need to straigthen out the lines abit,I will be cutting the window today and doing a practice cut of the car as well...I can use the piece of metal that I cut off the case for practice**ingenius!**:D If I dont get a good enough image I'll just do a 1/4 cut and not make any holes and use the mesh for top window instead,I received the mesh just a few momments ago btw :)
mnpctech
29th January 2005, 19:18
I redrew it. I erased most of the scattered pixels (dots). I'll leave the rest to you.
http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/aWIZB/Stang/StangWin6.jpg
Make gaps between cut lines so pieces don't fall out :h34r:
http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/aWIZB/Stang/StangWin6diagram.jpg
My idea for silouette window. Black portion would be cut out. http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/aWIZB/Stang/StangWin.jpg
Red arrows designate the "floaters" I refered to. You cut these pieces from the panel scraps and apply them to the outside surface of plexi window with adhesive. Note: Gas cap and windshield are still attached by thin pieces. These pieces should be applied to plexi as well. I prefer to use clear 3M heavy duty adhesive tape. (glue = messy)
http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/aWIZB/Stang/StangWin2.jpg
Negative Design
29th January 2005, 20:23
I redrew it. I erased most of the scattered pixels (dots). I'll leave the rest to you.
http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/aWIZB/Stang/StangWin6.jpg
Make gaps between cut lines so pieces don't fall out :h34r:
http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/aWIZB/Stang/StangWin6diagram.jpg
My idea for silouette window. Black portion would be cut out. http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/aWIZB/Stang/StangWin.jpg
Red arrows designate the "floaters" I refered to. You cut these pieces from the panel scraps and apply them to the outside surface of plexi window with adhesive. Note: Gas cap and windshield are still attached by thin pieces. These pieces should be applied to plexi as well. I prefer to use clear 3M heavy duty adhesive tape. (glue = messy)
http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/aWIZB/Stang/StangWin2.jpg
I had no idea you were THIS talented,real nice.Great ideas for the scaps too,I was thinkin of using some for side wings(just a thought) that gas cut will be really intricate and hard to to but im game.
And lets keep in mind that this cut is not for the window its for the non windowed side panel,the window side will be etched not cut(cutting=melts:()
I did my window cut yesterday,I was almost finished but my stepdad kept annoying me about the damn noise :( and claimed the electricity bill is gonna skyrocket from using dreme...:eek: :rant: so I will finish the cut today ..no matter what he sez(window cut not car cut).
Negative Design
31st January 2005, 02:20
Got some more pix,finished the window cut.I need to cut the inner metal so the molding will fit...you will see it in the pix.
I may do another cut just above the window and use the other widow or pieces from it,I cant leave my OCZ PSU in the dark :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC01749.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC01748.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC01747.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC01746.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC01745.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC01743.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC01742.jpg
zer0
31st January 2005, 03:32
are you going to cut in to the corners so you have a rounded window or are you going for the ridged look?
Negative Design
31st January 2005, 04:08
are you going to cut in to the corners so you have a rounded window or are you going for the ridged look?
I want a squared look so I removed all round edges...a completley modded window,I dont want a stock look,besides the rounded edges are ugly dont u think ;)
Negative Design
2nd November 2006, 21:20
Hey guys,
Its been a while,sorry for not updating I've had alot of roadblocks.My dad threw away my dremel, lost some supplies,had to re-buy,had a job...lost a job etc etc...
But anyway I've finished the mod,its not as perfect as I would of wanted but I wanted it to be finished.As usual it looks better in person,the pics are really bad there are certain things the cameras picks up that the human eye can't notice.
I haven't installed water cooling yet becuase I need a new GPU block once I get that I will install and post pix.
I will also be installing UV later on today.
I'd like to trully thank everyone who helped me with this mod and contributed to the thread and a special thanks to Mr. Bill at Mcpctech.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC02204.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC02206.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC02208.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC02209.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC02212.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC02213.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC02219.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/NegativeDesign/DSC02218.jpg
Its my 1st mod so be gentle :-p
Mod edit - Please fix your pic size, our max limit is 800px wide.
Also it looks like your sig was oversized. Now might be a good time to read the rules (http://www.wizdforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=785) - cheebs
The_Dragon_No1
2nd November 2006, 21:58
well..............
sorry to say so...no hard feelings XD :o) but i dont like it to much...the black stripes over the bezel, the left stripe is to much to the right side,down at the front it very ruff,and the window design is not the best...
some good things tho... the cut out car window is preaty nice i think,would be cool to have at the top panel..:thumb:
but you have a good theme and your new to this i see , so just modd on and i'm sure you will do better..:dremel: :thumb:
Negative Design
2nd November 2006, 22:22
well..............
sorry to say so...no hard feelings XD :o) but i dont like it to much...the black stripes over the bezel, the left stripe is to much to the right side,down at the front it very ruff,and the window design is not the best...
some good things tho... the cut out car window is preaty nice i think,would be cool to have at the top panel..:thumb:
but you have a good theme and your new to this i see , so just modd on and i'm sure you will do better..:dremel: :thumb:
Yea the right stripe isn't perfect,I tried to make it fit the hole on the top cut and veered too much.
Putting the car cut on top isn't a bad idea but I couldn't print an image big enough for it:magic:
I will admit I lost patience and rushed through some parts of the project.
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