Project: Metaversa

[Nexxo]

Hey guys, do you think it is worth it copying the project log of Metaversa over here, or shall I just post a linkie to Bit-Tech.net? :mellow:

[mnpctech]

Its a solid project log. You got my vote to see it posted here B)

[dutchcedar]

ditto...

I was thinking of doing the same with BaDassII, but I can't link from other forums...

[Nexxo]

OK, here goes then (25 pages worth... but many of that replies, so I can do some compiling -phew)! Here's my project: Metaversa. I wanted to build something compact but watercooled, with serious processing power (creamy smooth SMP goodness) and storage. Something beautifully engineered, like a German or Japanese motorcycle. Something that can stand proudly next to any Apple G5.
Something cyberpunk inspired that looks like you might buy it off the shelf in Akihabara. In the year 2050.

I started this at least a year ago. I managed to track down these gorgeous (and high performing) limited edition waterblocks. This committed me to 3/8" ID tubing. Aqua-Computers was not yet known to me then, and their choice not as expansive as today, otherwise I would have gone that route instead... But still, I had the opportunity to design a unique self-built WC circuit. And I could still use their res. So that's OK then. :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23178065.jpg

A Lian-Li PC-12 Dual Athlon of watercooled goodness. Throughout, I endeavour to go with a Men-In-Black style black and chrome theme:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/16964363.jpg

and a red MSI K7D-Master L with Paul Vodrazka's home made waterblocks:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/14135806.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/16964331.jpg

The pump is a 12V continuous rated Johnson pump, the slightly bigger brother of the Jabsco pump... around 400 GPH at 4 ft. head... But given its MTBF of 2500 - 4000 Hrs. I may replace that with a chrome polished MCP 600. ;)

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/15583172.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/15583190.jpg

with no effort spared to make things as silent as possible... rubber grommets everywhere...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/16964376.jpg

...and to make even little details, like case handles and fan grilles, look good.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23177337.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/19009390.jpg

[Nexxo]

I polished the Aquatube mounting plate to a nice shine...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23177425.jpg

I have also had the Aquatube drilled out to fit wider barbs corresponding to my particular setup. That should take care of restrictions... :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120764.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120753.jpg

The eternal question: can you polish an aluminium Panaflo fan?

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23178085.jpg

Yes, you can! :D Here a bit of "before and after":

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23178111.jpg

I couldn't quite get the light to catch it, but it looks better in real life (and in the pictures further down):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23178090.jpg

[Nexxo]

I have been working out the internal arrangement of the components...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120793.jpg

... to arrive at a cardboard template for the mounting frame for the cooling assembly:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120802.jpg

This is traced out on a piece of sheet aluminium (covered in our faithful friend: paper masking tape!):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120789.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120780.jpg

And here is the finished product (aluminium cut, bent, sanded and polished; rubber grommets fitted):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120733.jpg

Special thanks go to Steve Allen of the Birmingham University School of Sport and Exercise, who helped me out with their workshop, and did some trickier bits for me...

Here is the unit fitted, without shroud or pump:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120713.jpg

And the assembly test-fitted:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120702.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23120684.jpg

[Nexxo]

Did I mention the 5" colour LCD screen? :p That 5" screen will go into the 3.5" bays. This will also save me having to adapt the floppy cradle to accomodate the BIX assembly (not that that would have been a problem). On the screen, I will be running MBM 5 and Glint.

Glint? Yes indeedy! Glint is a systems monitoring program that measures pretty much anything that goes on in your PC (up to 100 different processes) and displays them, in real time, in pretty little graphics:

http://www.scitechconcept.com/images/image0.gif

http://www.scitechconcept.com/images/image1.gif

http://www.scitechconcept.com/images/image3.gif

It's a free download, works on Windows 2000 and XP, and you can get it :here: (http://www.scitechconcept.com/).

The Lian-Li PC-12 is a very nice case, but despite appearances, the grille does not have very big holes at all (more like little slits, really --in that respect its siblings of the PC60's series have much better ventilation). This does not deter a modder, though. B) I painstakingly drilled out and squared (with a needle file) all the holes in the grille. This mod has been done before on this type case, and is said to improve temps by at least a couple of degrees... we'll see. Below is a pic of when one half of the grille was done, to show you the difference:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/16964400.jpg

In case you wondered what were the hubs I stuck in the center of those ThermalTake fan grilles, those are "Tenderfeet"...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/19009449.jpg

They are some of those specialist Hi-Fi anti-vibration feet that people put under their stereos to (presumably) reduce sound distortion. They come in various sizes, and in both aluminium and black:

http://www.artech-electronics.com/prod_images/tenderfeet/tendfeet.jpg

and cost about £13,-- for a set of three. Bargain!

My application is as follows... Before:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/19009385.jpg

(note that the ThermalTake logo is the wrong way around; that's how I had to mount the grilles to make a good fit with the rubber edge moulding. But I didn't want the logo anyway, hence this solution)... After:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/19009390.jpg

:D

The moral of the story? There is an amazing ammount of modding stuff out there, in unusual places. Look at esoteric Hi-Fi stuff, car customising mods (particularly in-car entertainment stuff) etc.

[Nexxo]

Here I've fitted the pump, making the cooling assembly more or less complete. I then proceeded with the case mounting bits...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23396815.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23396818.jpg

And I've done the rear fans. A second fan made it a tight fit, but with careful cutting of the rubber trim and rubber grommets, it fits (by the way, for a 80mm fan cut a 76mm hole, and cut trim to 26cm lenght; once fitted you only have to remove about 4mm of the rubber trim for a tight, and near seamless, fit. Don't try to estimate trim length by using the pi value, it don't work that way!).

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23396803.jpg

And here are the fans fitted. I used the Thermaltake grilles that came with the fans, and superglued the Tenderfeet (mentioned above) in the center (using Gel superglue; handy stuff!).

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23527266.jpg

Close-up:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23396808.jpg

And the case as it is at the moment:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23527284.jpg

Some way yet to go! :D

[Nexxo]

In order to enhance looks, I made a prettier shroud (the earlier one was more of a trial, but gave me valuable ideas of how to do it...

Anyway, first I taped a strip of anodized aluminium from B&Q in paper masking tape, as there is plenty of risk of scratches in this little operation. I then wrapped it around the fan (you can only do this with a sturdy aluminium Panaflo, else use an old/broken fan or a wooden template)...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1967737/23527178.jpg

Then I made some more parts...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1967737/23527165.jpg

... and sealed the shroud and BIX with self-adhesive draught excluder...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1967737/23527132.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1967737/23527124.jpg

(note the mounting rods through the BIX. They are 4mm diameter. You have to drill out the holes for this, but as long as you DON'T drill THROUGH the rad to the other side :nono: , that's not a problem. The rods will bend some of the delicate fins as they go through, but do not even touch the flat vertical canals through which the coolant flows, so you're safe).

Trim the corners of the seal once the lot is fitted...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1967737/23527110.jpg

... and there you are. A nice looking job or what?

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1967737/23527088.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1967737/23527296.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1967737/23527291.jpg

I will do a more detailed guide at some point soon.

And the modding continues...

[Nexxo]

Although I planned in advance, it's better to check things now to prevent unpleasant surprises... Hence I installed the motherboard to work out internal arrangements. And this led to more pics, pure eye candy at this point, but you will get the idea...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23574103.jpg

The blocks look pimp... :p

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23574128.jpg

So do the rounded cables (Akasa. Good stuff! Well finished and very flexible)...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23574116.jpg

This got me thinking: I'm keen to keep these cables tidy, and I my mind went back to all those modded/customised car engines where the starter cables are neatly clipped together. Starter cables vary from 7 to 10.5mm in diameter. A rounded floppy cable is 8mm; a rounded IDE cable is 11mm. You know what I'm getting at...

http://www.taylorvertex.com/photos/4b.jpg

These are "plug wire separators" (punch that in Google to find out more). They come in nylon but also polished or anodised aluminium if you want. Hose wire clamps allow you to attach cables to the case, again with nice milled and polished or anodised aluminium brackets. If you want to keep things simpler and cheaper, "T" clip wire separators are very useful as well...

http://www.taylorvertex.com/photos/4c.jpg

Guess I'll do some car part shopping! :D

You may be interested to know that many MSI mobos do not only have a D-bracket status LED affair on a blanking plate, but also on the mobo itself... Works for me: more pretty lights = more pimpage. Anyway, I will be able to see them through the side window from where I'll be sitting.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23574112.jpg

To be continued... same Bat-time, same Bat-channel...

[mrplow]

Excellent. I know I've seen it all before, but those blocks are still amazing.
The radiator assembly looks fantastic too.


One question, could you tell me where you got these bolts

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/16964376.jpg

I'm looking for some that closely match the aquatube bolts, these look pretty similar (maybe you could tell me if so or not)
Cheers!

[Nexxo]

Mounting rails done... Note the rubber feet which will support the rad. Necessary because when filled with water, a BIX will weigh 860 grammes!

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/26377874.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/26377876.jpg

Tube connection... (have to adjust the pump a bit... good thing I designed the mount it in a way that allows adjustment over 6 axes!) Those are marine grade stainless steel clips, designed for hostile environments. Quake players amongst you know what I mean... :p.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/26377871.jpg

Fit a Zalman NB passive sink...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/26377858.jpg

And test fitted the flow switch (registers flow/no flow)...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/26377841.jpg

...on the res:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/26377849.jpg

Wait- back up. Flow switch? Yup! Originally designed for drinks machines, the FCS-01 low resistance flow triggered switch with 3/8" BSP thread will monitor pump function. They're quite cheap, but when I contacted the company that makes them (GenTech) they asked "How many thousand do you need... per year?" :blink: They don't normally sell to private customers but after months of begging they sold me 10 on a one-off basis. I kept two, gave two to my mate Scopedog, sold a few and Pug bought the remaining four, so if you want some, ask him. Americans may still be able to get its American brother with 3/8"NPT thread from Royal Components. Possibly. PCLincs tried to sell them too, but have not managed it...

As for the PSU: feel the bower, baby! :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/26377906.jpg

For those of you who are thinking od a Truecontrol: the bezel comes as standard in metallic colour.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/26377900.jpg

But I am going to install these controls somewhere/someway else. Where/how, you'll have to see...

Still coming: a 2mm acrylic plate to cover/protect the LCD screen, with a nice antireflective coating (like the one you find on camera lenses). Took 3 weeks... :(

Stuff to do, stuff to do...

[Nexxo]

This is the anti-reflective 2mm acrylic screen which will protect (hopefully) the delicate 5" LCD screen:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368749.jpg

It's anti-reflective properties do not show up well on a digital camera (:(), as it picks up light way further into UV than we do... you'll have to take my word for it that everything that reflects blue in the pic, is actually a faint deep dark purple in real life. The effect is like one of those anti-reflective screens they put over office monitors. It works well, it looks pimp. What more can you ask? Unfortunately this stuff, although tough, cannot be cut with your garden variety home dremal without it shattering like glass. So I had to have Slater Plastics (UK) make me one to spec. The material was incredibly cheap, the labour wasn't (don't ask...) but that LCD screen is going to be safe. Below the preliminary test fit. The screen will be underneath, of course.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368728.jpg

Below is a flexible hose cutter. Costs a tenner at Machine Mart, but will cut those tough Tygon hoses with accuracy and a straight clean edge. Worth the investment.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368567.jpg

And below is a combined 240Gb of HD storage goodness: two WD1200JBs (8Mb cache)... Courtesy of a special offer at Overclockers.co.uk

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368722.jpg

With these I got some vibration dampeners from Noiseblocker. These can be bought in the UK from ultim8pc.co.uk (http://www.ultim8pc.co.uk/) (they're not on listed on their site yet, but e-mail them). Below a product shot --uncannily featuring the same drive!

http://noiseblocker.shops.at12.de/img/70222_image2.jpg

So what did I actually do? Well, I lapped the blocks:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368518.jpg

I finished the res. Teflon tape and Plumbers Goop are your friend...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368528.jpg

Another pimp shot:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368782.jpg

[Nexxo]

I countersunk the holes in the res mounting plate...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368532.jpg

The mounted result here:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368771.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368486.jpg

OK, here comes the science bit (sort of): the res connects to the pump inlet by a Tygon tube, 3/4" in diameter. The inlet tubing is wider than the outlet, because there will be relative underpressure at the inlet and you want unconstricted flow to prevent cavitation (is shake, rattle and foam :()...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368755.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368734.jpg

Next, cut up a grille... (as you do)

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368508.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368505.jpg

Superglued it to the PSU mounting plate --with aTenderfoot hub, to match the two rear fan grilles.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368500.jpg

The result:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/27368497.jpg

I'm not entirely happy with it yet. It needs finishing off neater...

More stuff to follow soon. Watch this space. Intently. :D

[Nexxo]

Meanwhile Scopedog made me aware of some really nice hose clamps for the main "artery" going from the res to the pump inlet:

http://www.pi-thon.com/images/spannergroup222.jpg

These come from Pi-thon (http://www.pi-thon.com/) who manufacture hose and pipe clamps for all sorts of engine bay applications in car and motorcycle customization. Visit and drool. I want some. I want some now.

Finally I ordered the 20" TFT monitor for this system: A Dell 2000FP.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/images/SKUimages/medium/D100-2042z.jpg

"What?" I hear you cry. "Are you made of money?". Well, no. Dell has a habit of selling surplus stock on to the market, at cost. You can pick one of these babies up at eBay UK for £699,-- (at the eBay shop called: MM Trading). For a 20" TFT (and a darn good one, actually) that's an utter bargain. I'll be living off beans on toast for the rest of the year, however...

You remember me mentioning the 5" LCD screen? OK, today I've been fitting it. This includes the anti-glare protective screen, and the several bits of finnicky PCB that are screwed to the back.

http://www.cpufx.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/205-013m.jpg

First I took the screen apart, inc. the metal mounting strips (useless in this particular case) and the two PCBs. Unfortunately I have no pics of that (forgot, oops) but here's one helpfully provided by another modder, from a project :here: (http://www.gruntville.com/howtos/video_module/index.php)

http://www.gruntville.com/images/hardware/lcd_howto/how%20to%20small/lcd_door-004.jpg

You can see how it comes apart...

First ths acrylic protective screen. This needs to be mounted to the case, but over the LCD screen itself. The whole lot needs to make a seamless fit with the front bezel. Clearance between bezel and case itself is 16mm; this means that with an acrylic screen of 2mm thickness, the standoffs need to be 14mm exactly. Can such a thing be found?

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185612.jpg

Of course it can! :D Maplins (UK) sells chrome plated brass standoffs, 14mm long, for M3 screws, for a tiny 69 pence for a pack of ten. Combined with some M3 x 8mm countersunk socket screws, these will mount the screen...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185599.jpg

So after a lot of measuring and tweaking, here are all the holes drilled: 4 x 3mm for the acrylic screen; 4 x 3 mm for the LCD screen; 4 x 2mm for one PCB, and 2 x 3 mm for the tertiary PCB (this is the narrow strip on the side to which connect power and video --these were added later)... As you can see, the screen goes in the floppy bay. The cooling array partly takes up the floppy bay anyway, and I felt the location was logical.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185591.jpg

The standoffs screwed in place (at the back I used M3 x 10 mm buttonhead socket screws)...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185582.jpg

[Nexxo]

The screen screwed in place. This was done with M3 screws also. Note that the screen is only 13mm deep, so I had to raise it on 4 x two M3 washers at each screw point, to make the surface of the screen meet the acrylic screen. Not absolutely necessary, but I don't want dust wandering under there freely-- and it reduces visibility slightly.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185575.jpg

... And here is the whole lot in place, with the anti-glare screen mounted:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185565.jpg

... and here's the back. Note that the secondary PCB is screwed in with M2 socket screws (and some isolation tape is stuck under where the PCB meets the metal case, just to be sure, even though there are no tracks or components there), and the tertiary PCB also has some of those handy standoffs, to keep it clear from the secondary screen...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185542.jpg

So does it fit? Here's the front bezel snapped in place. Note that seamless fit between acrylic screen and bezel edge... That's lovely to see... :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185474.jpg

Front of the case:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185525.jpg

And with the cooling array back in place. No crowding there. Good thing, because that screen can get a bit warm and needs some space to breathe...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/28185481.jpg

[Nexxo]

For those who are interested: Here are some links to other 5" LCD mods: B)

:Mikhailtech: (http://www.mikhailtech.com/modules.php?name=Articles&rop=showcontent&id=22)

:Wise Ganesha's Hardware Exravaganza: (http://caffeine.l33tpeeps.com/caffeine/index.htm)

:Gruntville: (http://www.gruntville.com/howtos/video_module/)

:Soulsend: (http://www.soulsend.com/lcd_mod.htm)

:GideonTech Gallery: (http://forums.gideontech.com/vps/showgallery.php?thumb=1&stype=2&si=ashleyjwarner&cat=500&perpage=12&sort=1&ppuser=593)

Received my monitor. It's Hiooj!!! 20" of TFT goodness and not a single dead pixel in sight!

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/28254952.jpg

Hmmm... massive screen estate... Notce an example of Glint running on the left of the screen, above the Realplayer visualisation. Of course Glint can display up to 100+ variables, so in theory you could have most of your screen covered in dancing, flashing, coloured squares doing the bop-di-bop everytime your PC does something. B)

[mnpctech]

Rock on Nexxo!

I'll jump bandwagon and follow suite with my bit-tech log also.

[Wolfie]

Awesome project! I really like the attention to details and neatness!

[Pug]

D'ya know, I even forgot about your LCD mod - your rig is gonna be sooooo insanely good when it's done. B)
CustomPC really ain't gonna be short on winners for their compo with readers' rigs like this about!

Didn't I hear you say that there was some coolant in the vicinity this weekend too?
*starts chant*
Leak test, leak test, leak test, leak test... ;) :D

[mrplow]

I'll ask again cos my post got pretty lost on the first page in amongst yours ;)

Where did you get those lovely allen-key-head (what does one call those?) bolts that you seem to have used throughout?

Thanks, utterly fantastic looking case dude.

[Nexxo]

@ Pug: leak test is happening this week! ;)

@ mrplow: I just went back over the thread and noticed your first post. Sorry dude, didn't mean to ignore you!

I got the hex bolts (I think that's their name) from Inox Fasteners (http://www.inoxfasteners.co.uk/). You can order them on their website, in most conceivable sizes. They're stainless steel, cheap, and you can buy them in any ammount (even single units). They polish them for you if requested. I have found them extremely helpful and prompt. Order, supply credit card details, and the whole shebang is posted to you the same week. Excellent stuff.

[Nexxo]

Update: as you may (or may not) know, the Danger Den Maze 3 GPU block turns out not to fit too well on a 256Mb version of the Radeon card. Below the card in all its naked glory (ooh, er, missus!). Note the small wedge cut out from one of the ramsinks to accommodate the main heatsink...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/29870382.jpg

The block test fitted:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/29870343.jpg

Oops...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/29870365.jpg
http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/29870373.jpg
http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/29870360.jpg

... and that is with the 3/8" barbs. When you consider the 1/2" barbs (which I need), you see the fit becomes impossible:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/29870341.jpg

Ordering an OCPC block from Tekheads SO didn't work... you can read all about that debacle :here: (http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35677). I had to look at the new Maze4GPU block instead, in black with chrome barbs... Thing is, I now had to do a minor re-design of part of the cooling circuit --but that's worked out OK.

[Nexxo]

Meanwhile, the Pi-Thon hose clamps arrived:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870330.jpg

You get the fitting tools thrown in for free... Good, because you need them.

Here's the lot fitted:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870320.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870325.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870518.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870514.jpg

Case sideshot... lovely. :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870511.jpg

And here a pimp shot of the peripherals: the keyboard/mouse combo, and the monitor.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870394.jpg

Yeah, baby! Black is back! :D

[Nexxo]

I got the GPU block for the Radeon: a Maze4GPU. Here's a shot or four of the test fit:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/30763980.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/30763964.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/30763929.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/30764218.jpg

Which is nice. :D

I also got the two DVD/CD-RW drives for the project. They're slot-loading Panasonics (CW-8122 in case you want to know. Get them at a much cheaper than usual price :here: (http://linitx.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=10&products_id=182)). Why laptop drives? You'll see soon... ^_^

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/30763989.jpg

They're soooo thin!!! :D

[Nexxo]

Meanwhile, I have been messing with the mobo tray:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/31905912.jpg

and lapped the GPU block:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/31905936.jpg

--which is nice. :D

I made a wider mounting bracket, so I could accomodate the cable clamps which will guide the IDE cables...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/31905884.jpg

And I soldered two wires to the back of the mobo, which will split the LAN activity light from the RJ-45 socket at the back to the front of the case (where it will share a bi-colour LED with the HDD). If it looks messy, it's because I used plumbers goop to secure the tiny, and therefore fragile, soldered connections.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/31905870.jpg

And I test fitted the mobo, GPU card and blocks to measure out and cut the last bits of tubing. Now we can actually get an impression of what the end result will look like, sorta...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/31905811.jpg

Note the big tube isn't secured to the res yet, as I have to take the oump/rad assembly out a few more times...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/31905771.jpg

So next I'll fit the remainder of the tubing, mount the HDDs and when the brackets arrive, those thin DVD/CD-RWs etc. Then comes the fun part: working out the electrical cabling, and making a PCB which will accomodate: 1. the flow switch monitoring; 2. the pump power supply "clean-up" circuitry; 3. extra connectors to make supply for the front fans and LCD screen tidier.

Oh, right, and the Antec 550 Control board bit will come out of the bracket and be mounted in the case front, behind the bezel, next to the LCD screen.

[Nexxo]

Then those darn elusive brackets finally arrived!

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32573093.jpg

They come including mounting screws and slim-line CD-Rom adapters.

Thus we now have the whole kit: two slot-loading DVD/CD-RWs, one 3.5" floppy and one 6 multimedia card reader...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32573155.jpg

...fits together like this:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32573358.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32573298.jpg

And here's the test-fit in the case:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32573148.jpg

Two DVD/CD-RWs, one floppy and one card reader will fit in two 5.25" bays! :D (This leaves the remaining two for the two HDDs.)

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32573107.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32573127.jpg

... and just wait until you see how I mounted them. B)

[Nexxo]

Here's the slot-loaders with their discs hanging out... Er.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32697197.jpg

And just something to be aware of, really, when using those laptop CD-Rom to desktop IDE adapters:

Here is an Akasa rounded IDE cable (great quality, btw). Note that the hole for pin 20 (a DNGN pin: does nothing, goes nowhere) is filled. This is normally not a problem, as you will notice that on the IDE connectors on the Mobo and HDD, pin 20 is missing also. If anything, this arrangement is another preventative measure to keep you from hooking up the IDE cables the wrong way around.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32697205.jpg

Below is the IDE connector on the adapter. Note that they have used a straightforward pin strip. Unfortunately they forgot to remove pin 20 (marked red with a felt-tip pen here)... You can see the problem that arises. I imagine that with most ribbon cables, slapped together from generic components, this doesn't matter as the hole corresponding with pin 20 is present also. But on some nice, spec-made rounded cables, you have a problem...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32697210.jpg

So what do we do? Mod it! My first plan was to de-solder the pin at the back and pull it out... but my trusty 12W iron was just not powerful enough...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32697217.jpg

...so instead with my leatherman I carefully bent the pin several times until it snapped off at the base. The comparative easy with which I could do this is another warning to treat those connectors with care! The result below:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32697226.jpg

The connector now fits perfectly.

Government Health Warning: "always mark the pin you're about to remove in a clear way, and check against the connector that you got the right pin. Also check the pin numbering. It's pin 20 you want. Removing the wrong pin will invalidate your adapter and seriously damage your mental health with the knowledge that you just messed up a (well overpriced) £12.50 piece of equipment beyond repair."

Just thought it worth knowing... ;)

Now, some info on the mounting of the brackets: this is done with M3 screws. To make for a neater effect and enhanced load-bearing mounting, I used some M3 screw finishing caps that you can order from QuickUK (http://www.quickuk.co.uk/). Coming in anodised aluminium, you can get those in various colours for peanuts. The screws are again M3 stainless steel polished socket screws from Inox Fasteners.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32697233.jpg

And here the mounted result:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/32697239.jpg

Lovely. :D

[Nexxo]

Another update, yeah! :D

Having test-fitted things, I decided to make larger, better fitting holes in the Mobo tray to make installing waterblocks easier...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422893.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422865.jpg

Unfortunately the tray was a bit scratched in the process of sanding the edges. Not a problem though, as you can't see it. I can't make up my mind however whether I should do something pretty with the back of the tray and make it a window feature on the other side of the case... decisions, decisions... What I did decide on, though, was a transparent blanking plate (an accessory for acrylic PC "Clearcases"). I may just edge-light this baby with white LEDs... add some frosted details... Hmmm... dropping hints about the case "prettification" here?

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422885.jpg

I test-fitted the HDDs, using Innovibe V2 HDD vibration dampeners. Below what's in the box: the mounting rails, screws, instructions (yeah, because it's real complicated :rolleyes: ), and a packet of exclusive Innovatek... er... sweets. That's right, jellybeans with the Innovatek logo on them... :p The foam rubber is just padding, but may come in handy for some ghetto noise dampening --it's exactly the width of a 5.25" bay!

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422954.jpg

The dampeners installed:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422933.jpg

And the drives installed. All seats are now taken!

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422850.jpg

It's a nice fit. Plenty of room for the return hose to the res, and nice, vibration proof suspension. The mounting screws are again done with those finishing caps, making for a nice... er... finish:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422857.jpg

The cooling circuit is pretty much sorted. I obtained a nice polished billet aluminium hose separator (for car customizing originally) to help arrange the tubing (I'm holding the tubing ends in place with my hand for the pics, as the DangerDen GPU is off to be sandblasted and polished to a shine, Coolmeister-style!).

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422915.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/33422902.jpg

Now I need a plug wire separator to keep the three rounded cables neat (one for FDD, two for the HDD/DVD-CD-RWs).

[Nexxo]

Meanwhile, I mentioned that Metaversa has it's own logo. This will appear on the case in the usual places (EL backlit badge, the window - etched -, and the other side panel, also EL backlit). Yeah, baby! :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/34728447.jpg

ouija saw this sketch on Bit-Tech forums, and helpfully knocked up a Photoshopped replica:

http://www.ouija2k.net/metaversa.jpg

...which caused a debate as to the correct 3D aspect of the logo...

i just tried putting the logo over the corner of a cube and came up with this:

http://www.jazzle.co.uk/hosted/metaversalogo3d.jpg

(textures were to make it easier to see the shape)
as you can see, it doesn't quite work because the originally rounded 'ends' aquire a point. i don't think this detracts from the logo though.

D'oh! I knew I forgot to mention something... People asked me how I put a 1/2" barb on the pump...

The outlet of the pump was tapped to 1/2" BSP thread with a tap and die set, thus allowing me to simply screw in a 1/2" BSP barb...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23178104.jpg

... here about to be screwed home. Er.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/23178099.jpg

Of course you use PTFE tape. The result is neat and clean:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/26377871.jpg

(I have since screwed it in tighter and cleaned up the tape a bit).

As for the inlet, I just used 3/4" ID tubing. The wider diameter is to compensate for relative underpressure thus preventing cavitation of the pump yada, yada, yada... I won't bore (sic) you with the technical details again... (the res also has a 3/4" outlet barb fitted). Of course here was the opportunity to use Pi-Thon hose clamps:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870325.jpg

...although these can of course also be used on the outlet barb mentioned earlier --it's just that with their wide OD, it wouldn't fit right over the fan/shroud asssembly.

[Nexxo]

I've been playing Igor, Dr Mike's faithful assistant in developing a PIC to monitor watercooling flow/pump functioning in my project, and his. See his project thread Matrix -H20 (http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39547&perpage=20&pagenumber=7) for more info.

What does it do? Well, it will shut down the PC in case flow fails.

It also makes a Bi-colour power led pulse prettily, iMac style, when the PC is turned off, and turns it from (e.g.) blue to red if pump fails (those were my ideas...). Optionally it triggers a pre-programmed message to be displayed on a Matrix Orbital LCD (that was his idea... as was the whole PIC circuit, code, how to hook it to the PC etc. That's why he is Dr. Mike, and I am Igor :p ).

http://www.bsodmike.com/bit-tech/pump3pcb.jpg

One of those babies winged its way to me! B)

in the quest for a polished shiny Maze4GPU block, I managed to get mine sandblasted (stage 1)...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/36789234.jpg

Now I need to do some heavy polishing (stage 2)...

(Special thanks go to Jo Bromley, jewellery designer/craftswoman, who had access to the sandblasting equipment. In fact, she has access to a laser cutter as well... Oh, the posibilities! Muhahahahahahah!!!)

What I want to achieve is the same result as Coolmeister's block (who had the idea first), pictured below:

http://www.coolercases.co.uk/images/Misc/maze4_gpu_shiny_1.jpg

I mean, trick, or what? So I polished my Maze4GPU block...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/37665682.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/37665673.jpg

Result. B)

[Nexxo]

Now the GPU block was finished I could test-fit it and give people a first impression of the completed WC loop in my machine. Here are the pics!

The block fitted:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/37724345.jpg

Who's a shiny block then? :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/37724324.jpg

As you can see, if required the block can be taken off the graphics card and just folded away for easy card swapping...

In fact, disconnect the CPU blocks as well, and you can simply pull the whole mobo tray out. Alternatively, leave the tray in place and unscrew the res instead, and you can lift the whole cooling circuit out of the case in one piece, pump, rad, fan, blocks, res, tubes and all.

(In double fact, if I want to go dual Athlon 64 in the future, all I have to do is swap the mobo and swap the CPU block clamps, and leave the rest of the system untouched. Upgradability is key.)

The block installed on the Graphics card (ATi Radeon 9800 256Mb). Note (as I'm sure you will) the nice polished billet aluminium wire plug separator keeping the tubing tidy, and the Cardkeeper supporting the graphics card.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/37724307.jpg

Another close up:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/37724287.jpg

And the whole loop (excuse the crappy pic, it gets dark early here in the UK in winter...):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/37724254.jpg

As you can see (hopefully) the air stream passes neatly over all the warm components: in through the front, through the rad, past the pump (which gets fairly warm in normal use), past the RAM sinks of the GPU card and the NB sink, exiting the back fans and PSU.

And a flash photograph to show off the details better. Again quick and dirty; I'll do some eye candy shots later... Please note that the pump is not yet connected to the res, hence that tube looks a bit out of alignment.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/37724229.jpg

Also note how much empty space is left in the case. You can cram dual CPU watercooling in a standard midi tower and have plenty of room left, if you plan things properly... :D

[Nexxo]

Here's some more shots in better light:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/39235817.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/39235806.jpg

A nice one of the GPU block:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/39235802.jpg

Look at that shine: :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/39235793.jpg

And I connected the Res to the pump:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/39235786.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/39235767.jpg

Im redesigning the logo to work better with the case and some ideas I have for the case side... This will involve a stainless steel chrome polished square, with the logo laser-cut in it, some more details etched on the metal. The logo is backlit with an EL sheet. Some detailing may involve semi-precious gemstone, like white quartz, but in a modern, techy sort of way...

All has been worked out... except the feet. I want some awesome feet. Can't find any good feet. Except those ultra-hi-fi ones which cost a bomb. Which is no good.

[Nexxo]

then I braided the PSU. Red cables go to the Mobo (which is red, geddit?) and the rest is white. I was originally thinking chrome/silver braiding, but I feel it just doesn't look right... a bit tacky, like Christmas tree decoration.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42553958.jpg

I also started drilling more holes in the front of my case...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42554074.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42554108.jpg

...and changed the power button screws for countersunk ones, to increase the flat area surrounding the button. Why all this? Here's why: a Shuttle PN21 Bluetooth module:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42553774.jpg

Which is mounted hidden behind the (plastic) front bezel of the PC (and it has to be plastic, otherwise the signal doesn't get through!).

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42553744.jpg

You'll notice some holes below the module as well: this is where the Antec Truecontrol PCB goes, which is shown dismantled below:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42553699.jpg

I would show you it mounted, but as I said, I haven't quite had the time. :(

As you can see below, I added more shiny chrome seperators to the main inlet tube. This will lead the 4-pin 12V Mobo cable, and the molex cable supplying the Radeon 9800 and the Firewire PCI card. It also gives it some structural rigidity to the inlet tube to prevent it from folding under the underpressure.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42556116.jpg

[Nexxo]

Finally, I bought some of these:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42554163.jpg

They are flexible plastic D-bus protective caps. You can get them for 9-pin (serial or VGA) 15-pin (Midi) or 25-pin (Parallel) ports, both male and female. A pack of five costs £2,-- tops. As I do not intend to use more than one serial port, and not use the VGA port (going with DVI instead) they will serve to protect the ports which are not in use:

Serial:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42553925.jpg

VGA:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42553856.jpg

... also handy to protect your laptop ports when in transit :D :

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42554032.jpg

So, that's what I've been doing over Christmas. That's not all, though. I found a chrome billet 3-hole seperator for the three rounded IDE cables (yeah, yeah, I'll post a picture soon). I am also slicing an extra line into the PSU for an always-on 5V supply (again braided). I'm doing the pump control electronics. And I got a bottle of Zerex Racing coolant additive, but I thought that didn't make as exciting a photo. :p

[mrplow]

That is so [i want to swear...] sweet.

Thanks for the link to IXOS. I was just gonna buy 4 to secure the fan grill over the rad, but I started thinking they might not match the aquatube bolts correctly (perhaps you could enlighten me) so I will probably end up buying a butt load and just putting them freakin' everywhere :D

They're just much nicer looking than crappy posidrive heads tbh :)
Plus now I'll only need my trusty multi-allen-key-tool-think to tinker with my two beloved babies - my bike and my pc :D


A few nooby questions (sorry, you knew they were coming!)

"M3 x 0.5mm
Socket A/F 2.5mm
Head Dia 5.5mm
Standard Flat washer M3A"

Could you/someone explain the various numbers. M3 I understand is the 'size', the width of the bolt... I understand head diameter, I _assume_ A/F might be the length of the actual head of the bolt? Meaning it sticks out 2.5mm? If so, thats the same as the AT bolts, bonus. The 0.5mm, is that the threading?

Thanks dude/dudes.

[bigZ]

lovely work nexxo B)

mrplow: the M3 screws should be the same as what I bought the other day.

M3x0.5mmx30mm :)

[mrplow]

Originally posted by Nexxo@Feb 8 2004, 08:21 PM
http://www.bsodmike.com/bit-tech/pump3pcb.jpg
I know I'm going on and on about these things but are those also the INOX bolts... do they all have that text on them (not a problem, just wondered) and are they threaded up to the head as they seem there or do they have the unthreaded section as on the website?

And are yours mill finish or electro polished?

Thanks again.

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

I agree with your thoughts on the chrome braiding. I bought one of those complete kits and the braiding looks crap and the shrink wrap is all the wrong sizes. <_<

[Nexxo]

About the INOX Fasteners Bolts: I'm not sure what all figures mean, but here's what I do know:

M3 refers to the diameter of the screw, in mm. The second number on INOX' site refers to the overall length in mm; so an M3 x 10 bolt is 3mm diameter, 10mm long. If it says 0.5 then I guess that number must refer to the thread.

I guessed that Socket A/F 2.5mm refers to the size of the allen key you'd use to turn them --but you're likely more correct on that one. Head diameter, as you guessed, refers to the diameter of the head of the screw.

An M3A washer is basically a washer with a 3mm hole in it, suitable for a M3 screw.

Screws below M4 are generally electropolished, the larger ones are mill polished. The screws do not come with writing on them anymore (they used to). If they are of sufficient length (such as the M4 x 35's you see with the 80mm fans) they have an unthreaded bit, but short ones (I would guess of 20mm length or less are threaded all the way.

The screws in the picture of the PCB by the way, came with the PCB and are not INOX Fasteners screws, which are of much better quality, really.

The M4 screws are interchangeable with the Aquatube screws. They look basically the same except that the Aqua-tube ones do not come polished.

[fillip]

I have a question or two about the actual PIC.

could you explain a little about how it all works and how you are going to connect the flow switch upto it?
I know that bsodmike has done most of the work on the actual circuit because i already contacted him about making a guide for a similiar circuit.

I think it's an amazing idea. Who came up with it? you or mike?

definately want to feature some kind of flow protection for my watercooling setup i'll be putting together when i'm home from uni' just wondered if you could give me any ideas as to where you started researching yours?

is the flow switch the Gentech model FCS-01 and if so, could it simply be connected upto a M.O. LCD to monitor flow rate?

Sorry for the roasting but im intrigued

.: Fillip :.

p.s. excellent looking work btw, was following over at bit-tech but forums here are easier to follow as less congested.

[Nexxo]

The PIC was a creation by bsodmike, in response to my request for some help in deciding on the electronics to monitor the flow switch. Initially I designed something around a set of logic gates. Then a friend suggested that a PIC would offer a good solution. Discussing this on the Bit-Tech Forums, bsodmike whipped up a working design in less than an hour. He understands his PICs. All I did was add some suggestions as to what features it should have.

Basically, it requires always-on 5V (the 5V stand-by) to feed the PCB, as it will make the power LED blink (blue) when the PC is off. When switched on, the LED will shine a continuous blue. If the pump fails, the LED changes to red and the PCB sends a signal to the PC to shut down.

How? Well, the PCB will connect to a molex, using its 5V supply to check the status of the PC (on/off). The PCB connects to the flow switch also, which is literally just that: flow = on, no flow = off. The PCB furthermore connects to a red/blue dual colour LED, and finally, it connects to the PC power switch (bridging it will cause the same effect as you pushing and holding the power switch for four secs: the PC shuts down). The latter is done via an opto-coupler, so the PCB is not in direct contact with the actual PC mobo or electronics. He added one additional option to activate a pre-programmed message on a Matrix Orbital LCD screen when pump failure occurs.

Bsodmike made several of these PCB kits, so he should be able to sell you one.

Because the FCS-01 is a flow switch, it will only go on/off. You can't connect it to a M.O. directly to monitor rate of flow. For that you can get, from Gentech also, an ultrasound flow monitor which sends pulses corresponding to the rate of flow. All electronic, it is relatively small, has no moving parts, little restriction and 3/8" BSP thread connectors. It costs £80,-- but it could be what you're looking for...

[Starbuck3733T]

What schematic program are you using for that? Who did you send off to for the boards to be made?

I'm dying here :-D

[fillip]

cheers nexxo.

bsodmike already tole me he had some circuits done and i said i may be interested, certainly sounds damn impressive.

Just feel like i'd be cheating a bit because it was your idea, and you implemented it first - im not one for leaching other ideas...
hence why i wanted to see if mike would do a tut, from which i could learn some stuff myself.
I still may have the spare pic off him anyway as it's system protection to some extent, which is always gonna be worth having esp. with a w/c setup.

Don't fancy spending £80 on an ultrasound unit even though it sounds cool - student loan will only stretch so far!! ;)

anyways, i like your work, looking foward to seeing complete article.

.: Fillip :.

[Nexxo]

@ Starbuck: You'll have to ask bsodmike on Bit-Tech.net about all that. I think he used Eagle Layout Editor (http://www.cadsoftusa.com/) to design the PCB (there's a freeware version to download) and sent the designs to some local company in Asia. Dunno which one...

@ fillip: Actually, I think it is perfectly fine to use other people's ideas (giving credit where it's due, of course). These forums are for sharing information, ideas and inspiration, after all! Don't feel in any way that you shouldn't use this circuit. That would be like feeling you can't use a PSU in your PC because other people put one in theirs... :p

[fillip]

Yeah i know it's all about sharing, and when i start my project log round about start of june i wont mind if ppl use my ideas - (whether they would want to or not is another matter though!! :p )

you must know what i mean though, when you do a project you want everything to be original so you can turn round and say "I'm the muts nuts cos i did that" - just my personal preference really. But, as i said, it's such a great mod i can't help thinking i'm gona use it - credit to your meterversa log!!!

thanks for your blessing to use the PIC though, i know some ppl aren't very receptive to others using their ideas, so it's cool that you wanna share yours!!

.: Fillip :.

[richman]

Originally posted by Nexxo@Feb 8 2004, 07:48 PM
Meanwhile, the Pi-Thon hose clamps arrived:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/1215494/29870330.jpg

I was woundering if you would share where u got them gorgeous hose clamps from. Also where did u get the silver rad from and u also said there was a silver pump u could get where is this available :D
BTW: Your project is the dogs bo***x
Cheers
Richman

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

If you look carefully at the pciture i think it says www.pi-thon.com (http://www.pi-thon.com)on the packaging. ;)

[richman]

oh yea so it dose nice one.
Cheers
Rich

[Nexxo]

The chrome rad is a Black ice Xtreme. It comes in chrome as well as other colours. DangerDen sells them, but so do some other sites. Re: the pump, i was thinking of sandblasting and polishing a Swiftech MCP600 at one point... maybe later. :D

[Nexxo]

OK, UPDATE CITY!

What have I been doing over the last month... well, remember I braided the PSU?

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/42553958.jpg

In addition, I wanted to tap into the always-on 5V line without having to mess around with the mobo cable. So I got myself some splicers from RS Online:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990250.jpg

Which are used to splice into the PURPLE and a BLACK wire of the mobo cable (purple shows sort of blue here... bad lighting in the home. Moreover the pic is all blurry-- I gotta start using a mini-tripod! It does my Fuji Finepix s602 no justice at all...):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990404.jpg

Splicing is easy: you stick the second wire into the splice, fold it around the source wire, and snap shut. Easy. The thing cuts through insulation itself, but only on sufficiently thick wire. I therefore stripped the tips of the "branch" wire first.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990391.jpg

Braided this additional cable:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990277.jpg

Now I had to cram the whole lot into the PSU. Not easy! But with carefull laying out of the cabling, I eventually managed. The cable I'm holding is the all-new, purpose built always-on 5V cable... All PSUs should have one as standard. :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990305.jpg

As I said before, the whole thing is designed to be modular. Just detach the three waterblocks and the two power cables, and you can simply lift out the Mobo assembly:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990321.jpg

And by unscrewing the res and pump/rad bracket, you can actually lift out the whole watercooling circuit in one piece. :D

[Nexxo]

I removed the mobo because I needed to reach some corner parts of the PC. I have been doing some cable management, with self-adhesive cable clips. I have six different types/sizes, about 50 of each! Want cable management? You got it! Here's the USB cabling from the USB 2.0 PCI card to front ports, and from mobo to card reader and Bluetoothe module:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990224.jpg

For this to work, I needed to adapt the card reader so it shares the plug-in PCB with the Bluetooth module, picured here:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990213.jpg

Note the white plug and socket. they're common in PC bits, but I can't find just the plug anywhere. But the card reader has one on the PCB end of its (very long) cable:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990363.jpg

My plan: turn the cable around (so the plug goes in the Bluetooth-shared PCB, shorten it, braid it, solder the other end to the card reader. And so it was done:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990349.jpg

The USB ports in one of the floppy/slim-line CD-ROM bracket came with USB cables which were way too short. So I got some silver braided USB cables, cut them to size, stripped them and soldered them to the white plug of the original cables:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990336.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990639.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990192.jpg

And presto:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990662.jpg

This is the reult of the whole lot (card reader and USB ports) connected, with cables trailing to the right location inside the case:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990617.jpg

This update, of course, means now I have another dozen pics to update when Picturetrail moves them accross servers... :( but hey... just to let you know the project is still alive and progressing. Next it is on to testing the watercooling circuit. So that's me. As Cadbury's Cream Egg says: How do you mod yours? :D

[Nexxo]

TINY UPDATE: Leak testing of the cooling circuit started today. A mix of 5% Zerex Racing on 95% de-ionised water is running through the system at astonishing speed. The CM30P7-1 sure is some pump-- quiet, but the flow is so fast that there is a vortex spiralling down the center of all the tubing! No leaks so far, and little restriction, cavitation or foaming, but it will have to run for some time to get all the air out... pics to follow.

I'll keep things spinning for 24 hours or so, and will use a digital temperature probe to measure pump operating temps (27C so far). Watch this space...

[Darv]

Ooohh. Got any pics of it how it is now?

Been watching this for ages waiting for you to test it :D

[Nexxo]

Pics you want? Pics you get. :D

The circuit ready for leak testing (all electronics removed):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856925.jpg

The circuit filled with 95% de-ionised water and 5% Zerex Racing coolant:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856941.jpg

Dig that purple colour (well, Fuchsia really, but who's nitpicking?). The whole circuit took 525ml precisely.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856783.jpg

The pump fired up. Pump motor temps after three hours running: 32C. There is no cavitation, no foaming, no rattling, just a slight whine from the pump. Water by the way has cleared up considerably since these pics were taken, as air bubbles have been seperated...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856853.jpg

And the res lid: no turbulence, no foaming.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856734.jpg

I am getting some serious flow however! So much so that there are vortices forming in the tubing:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856718.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856705.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856138.jpg

I think this is something to do with the CPU block design: the channels are designed to spin the coolant on exit from the block; presumably to let water from several channels merge and exit smoothly. In any case it shouldn't affect performance. The pump definitely seems to not struggle at all --flow appears very fast and smooth.

Just for the heck of it, I rigged up the res lighting. This is a purple/UV LED. On the digital camera it shows, unfortunately, much bluer than it is. Think UV CCFL for the colour:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856767.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/45856752.jpg

And that's the state of play so far. Things are setting down nicely as all air bubbles are being removed from the system. At the moment I can hear only the soft whine from the pump. Watch this space...

[richman]

This turning out to be one proper bo case mod, cant wait to get mine rigged up. U have got my ideas flowing nicely aswell :D More pics :p i love that vortex u have in the pipes
Cheers
Richman

[Darv]

:wub: Very nice!!!

Not sure about all the pink though :p

[Nexxo]

Not pink! FUCHSIA! :angry: :p

[Darv]

lol. Okay not pink :p

Are you going to add some kind of UV dye at some point or are you sticking with the 'fushia'?

[mrplow]

Originally posted by richman@Feb 15 2004, 08:46 PM
This turning out to be one proper bo case mod
:lol: :lol:


Looking stunning mate, really stunning.

One [more!] question, where did you get the different diameter hose clips. I've found 8mm spark plug wire clips, but nothing in a larger diameter.

[fillip]

Mmmmmm... Not pink! FUCHSIA!&nbsp;

c'mon, it's pink, admit it :p

Love the vortex effect, looks awesome.

Its a great looking setup can't wait ill nxt update as it's coming along nicely.

.: Fillip :.

[Starbuck3733T]

Vortex = looks cool, but any amount of bubbles stuck in a WC loop makes me nervous. That is a 12V pump you have, yes? What amperage does it draw at 12V? I'm thinking if you had a beefy enough supply you might want to knock it down to 5V (assuming the impellar is run by a DC brushless motor, which wont be damaged by undervolting) long enough to get the bubbles out.

Edit: Just went back to page 1 and you have the specs posted. From an electrical standpoint, you could run that at 5V (your PC PSU would handle it). However, not knowing what kind of DC motor it uses... Could you post the full model # or full tech specs on it from johnson. OTOH, if you know its DC brushless, just go ahead and put 5V to it. Heck, you could have a switch to flip between 5 and 12. (Bleed/Run)

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990224.jpg
SPOOOO that is sooo nice and clean! I'd have attacked it by putting all those in one common carrier (sleeve)... but the individual sleeves look very cool when wire managed right.

[Nexxo]

@ mrplow: the hose/wire separators come from Billet Specialties (http://www.billetspecialties.com/item.asp?cid=7&scid=8&pid=202&rdir=1). Is that the ones you mean?

@ Darv: I'm still deciding on UV dye colour.

@Starbuck: There's the rub... the pump motor has brushes. And a 2500-4000hr MTBF. :angry: I'm already looking at a brushless alternative: half the flow, but a life span of 15000 hrs. In any case I let the water settle over night and topped it up a few millimeters... Now it's perfect. No bubbles.

[Pug]

Ah, the joys of a removeable mobo tray. *me wishes Hex had one*

Love the USB cable trick. :)

It's looking really tight bud - nearly there now. B)

[Nexxo]

Nearly... <_<

Still the pump control electronics to do. That's going to be a bit complex.

It's gratifying to see my own design (after months of planning and building) work, and work so well. Perfectly smooth, fast, flow. The pump is so powerful when you switch it on the bracket twitches (good thing it has rubber vibration mounting throughout)! But I tell ya, next time it's Aqua-Computer all the way. Just slap it in, hook it up, and you're away...

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

I dont get the pics only 'user posted image'. :(

[Nexxo]

Checked the IMG links. they work fine... Try again?

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

I guess someones been posting dodgy pictures lol :D

Access Denied




You have tried to access the web page:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/71767...80/43990662.jpg (http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/43990662.jpg)

which has been blocked because : Blacklisted


If, after checking the notes below and reviewing the university policies on Acceptable Use and IT Security, you feel this is incorrect

please contact the IT Services Help Desk on extn 2777



Note 1: The university blocks sites which may belong to one of the following categories:

Illegal, pornography-Adult, violence, hacking, racist


Note 2: You should not assume that any unblocked site is regarded by the university as falling within the Acceptable Use Policy.

[Nexxo]

Note 1: The university blocks sites which may belong to one of the following categories:

Illegal, pornography-Adult, violence, hacking, racist


Note 2: You should not assume that any unblocked site is regarded by the university as falling within the Acceptable Use Policy.


Put not your trust in University computers, nay, nor in their IT department...

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

I am the IT department :p

[Nexxo]

Then you should be able to get around the problem! :p

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

Unfortunately i dont have access to the box that anaylses the web pages i will how ever get my self an IP outwith the ones it scans. :h34r:

[Nexxo]

OK, it's been a while, and no update. What gives?

Well, because of the new pump, a new bracket needs to be cut, and pump outlet tapped (back to Steve...), which is currently happening.

Meanwhile, bsodmike has been refining the flow monitoring circuit. It's all on a single PCB now, with one PIC. The thing hooks up to a standard PC molex, and the always-on 5V (hence my PSU mod). It connects to the power LED, the power-on switch, the pump and the flow switch. How it works is this:
- When the PC is off, the power LED throbs (blue), like in an iMac;
- When the PC is on, the power LED is on (blue);
- If the pump fails, the power LED turns red, and the circuit triggers a relay which bridges the power-on switch, thus effecting a controlled shutdown.
- The circuit also passes 12V on to the pump, whilst incorporating the pump fuse, a capcitor and diode for interference screening. Bsodmike has named this device "Divine Protection". :D Only two prototypes will be made for now, one a special for Metaversa.

Here a pic of the PCB...

http://www.bsodmike.com/stuff/DivineProtection/DivineProtection_pcb.jpg

BTW for those who like throbbing LEDs (er... :worried:) bsodmike also has made a simple LED throbber circuit, which will be sold at www.themodhouse.co.uk (http://www.themodhouse.co.uk). he's now working on one where the LED throbs when the PC is off, and is on when the PC is on.

More to follow...

[mrplow]

need.

[Edd]

Wow, this is a beautiful mod. First class :)

[EDIT] Can't spell.

[fillip]

Originally posted by mrplow@Mar 20 2004, 04:32 PM
need.
YES! :o

[Starbuck3733T]

I don't suppose those PCBs that mike has made at custom PCB are singlesided w\ through-hole plated holes?

[Nexxo]

They're double-sided. I think they do have through-hole plated holes.

[Starbuck3733T]

CustomPCB is doing the MAX1668 boards as double-sided, so I do get through-hole plating, even though its a single - sided board. The price increase was minimal.

[Nexxo]

Tiny update: the Divine Protection circuit has undergone some revision and improvement, and is now complete (thanks, Dr. Mike!):

http://stuff.bsodmike.com/DivineProtection/DivineProtection-v2_pcb2.jpg

It's being sent to me as we speak. Meanwhile I've stumbled accross a low-pressure drop, highly reliable and sensitive flow sensor (Thanks, Turbokeu), the Swissflow SF800. It has 3/8" bsp thread mountings also and could easily be screwed in place of the flow switch. If it will cooperate with the above circuit, I may see if I can split the signal to a mobo fan sensor connection and get MBM to report ltr./m flow. This is easy, as the sensor produces exactly 100Hz per litre per minute pulses (e.g. 5 ltr./m comes out as 500Hz). The flow sensor is fairly cheap: 50 euros ex. vat.

I also have crafted a new bracket for the new pump. It looks, in my opinion, a bit sexier too (as far as brackets can look sexy, that is). Leak testing next week, and than hopefully the final assembly of all the working components, and fire the beast up! B)

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

OMG! Your nearly finnished?! You'll be able to try out all cutting-edge hardware you bought at the begining of the project! Pentium 233MMX, 256mb Ram and Nvidia RivaTNT. :p

Serioulsy though m8 its good to know your nearly done. Perfection sure is worth waiting for. :)

[Nexxo]

LOL. No worries m8, I desighed the whole thing with "extreme upgradeability" in mind. I could take the cooling circuit out intact and in one piece, if I wanted, without spilling a single drop. I can also simply swap the mobo for a Dual Opteron setup when I'm ready, without touching the rest of the setup. I'm already eyeing the MSI mobo for this. It's red also, and in fact has exactly the same layout as the K7D Master-L! And I can swap the WD1200JBs for two Raptors if I felt inclined. Which I may. :D

[Edd]

Wow. Just wow.
If I ever win the lottery, I'm getting you, mnpctech, G-gnome and Pug to create some kind of super-mod, to build a machine that will be the god of all others!! Muahahaha ... hmmm, too much caffeine today methinks. :wacko:

[Psykotik]

Been reading your project log on here and Bit Tech Nexxo, and seeing your bracket for your pump rad assembly just confirmed my secondary loop design for my GPU. :D

Those Pi Thon clamps are damn sexeh too..................my poor poor wallet

[Pug]

*Grabs popcorn & waits for finale...* B)

... speaking of G-gnome, has anyone heard of him lately? Hope he's ok. :confused:

[bigZ]

*Grabs popcorn & waits for finale...* B)

... speaking of G-gnome, has anyone heard of him lately? Hope he's ok. :confused: yeah, he's working hard on getting Orac finished... it hopefully won't be long now. He is all well and good though, just a very busy wee Gnome ;)

[Edd]

Oh, also a HUUGE thanks for linking that eBay store - found a Dell 2001FP for £640 including shipping and VAT! Much better than the £800-£900 from Dell online.
Gonna pick one of those babys up this summer I think to replace my big ol' CRT.

[Nexxo]

Well, it's sort of update time. I'm sorry that I haven't been able to show gee-whiz bang stuff, but the boring details need sorting out too... such as wiring. Good, clean wiring matters. A lot. So I spent a lot of time thinking about it. Below are my first test fits:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55231918.jpg

Note how nothing obscures the mobo, or blocks the flow.
Getting the Drive array done was tricky, but it seems to fit:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55232203.jpg

...and so does the supply to the GPU and Firewire card, and the USB headers for the front of the case. Note that I will, of course, be braiding the power cables! :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55232189.jpg

In the above pics you still see the old pump bracket, by the way. I had a new one made for the new pump, but I'm not happy with the result, so I'm doing another with a slightly modified design. It looks way better than the original, trust me...

The new pump has been "barbed":

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55231953.jpg

Originally it does not come with a retention bracket. "Klip-It" 50mm pipe clamps (and RS Online) to the rescue:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55232027.jpg

Only a couple of quid for two.

Here padded:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55232017.jpg

And here holding the pump:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55231931.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55231938.jpg

And here's Divine Protection istalled under the top drive cage:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55232032.jpg

And here, just for gratuity, proof that the whole WC loop can be removed from the PC in one piece: :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55232006.jpg

Steaming ahead now. More updates soon!

[mnpctech]

Nice work. Attention to details is top notch Nexxo :cool:

[Starbuck3733T]

Woohoo! Great stuff chief! Your wiring is AMAZINGLY clean!

[Pug]

Very sweet.
This is going to be so kick-ass from so many different standpoints, it's a project to be proud of. B)

Did I mention I have temperature sensor modules for the spare AquaTube ports btw? :h34r:

[Nexxo]

Did I mention I have temperature sensor modules for the spare AquaTube ports btw? :h34r:
Cool! How much? And how do you screw them in the Aquatube ports (or rather, hold them there and create a watertight seal, as I can't detect any screw thread on its picture on the Aqua-Computer website?

[Nexxo]

I know that everybody will be over at the Orac3 thread on Bit-Tech.net (and so am I! :D ), but I figure, what the heck. I have finally worked out a logo design I am relatively happy with, and I found a laser cutter/etcher for the mirror-polished stainless steel sheet that will be mounted on the mobo-side panel of the case. The design is sort of like this:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55744902.jpg

Everything in black willbe cut out and backlit with white EL sheet. Everything in gray will be laser-etched in the mirror-polished panel.

It also will give you a rough impression of what I am planning to do with the window etch. :h34r:

Another hint: anyone can tell me what PF5080 means? And why would that be printed on this case? ;)

[Pug]

Cool! How much? And how do you screw them in the Aquatube ports (or rather, hold them there and create a watertight seal, as I can't detect any screw thread on its picture on the Aqua-Computer website?
Price is TBC but they push into a Plug&Cool fitting, so you just add another fitting for one of the spare ports.
I'm waiting for a bunch of my self-sealing fittings to come in from Belgium which would make the ideal complement for these (monitor & drain point all-in-one :)) or you could just use a vanilla stud, as intended.


A new Orac³ update eh? ... I thought teh intarweb had gone a bit slow. ;) :D

PS. PF stands for Per Fluorocarbon (do I win a prize? :D)

[Starbuck3733T]

Nexxo: that is such a mindblowing combo! I can't wait to see it in action.

PFXXXXX: Golden Water? :p (I know its flourinert)

And you've given me the gumption to not have the PC's name the same as the project. Goliath's netbios name will be changed back to fit in my original scheme : underwater horror movies, but I've run out so now I have to deviate.

Abyss (tape backup/SQL server)
Leviathan (primary desktop)
DeepStarSix (HTPC)
Sphere (pitiful P233 linux web server)
MadMax (p166 craptop)

[mrplow]

Sphere (pitiful P233 linux web server)


Nicely done :)

[mrplow]

Woohoo! Great stuff chief! Your wiring is AMAZINGLY clean!

It makes me cry when I look into my case :(

[furious trout]

looking superb, can't wait to see the finished article :o

[Nexxo]

OK, finally the new bracket (Mk 3; finally happy with the look and all the measurements) has arrived back:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/56319297.jpg

This will hold the Davies-Craig pump, which has different dimensions from the original Johnson CM30P7-1, hence the alteration. I also made some general improvements on the look and tube-out support.

Here's the new bracket mounted on the rad/shroud assembly:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/56319291.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/56319272.jpg

And here is the lot test-fitted in the case. Note that the pump is not mounted yet (or the rest of the cooling circuit!), and of course the cables will be a bit tidier, but you get the idea:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/56319250.jpg

Close up:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/56319223.jpg

And a side shot:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/56319146.jpg

This weekend I will be mostly completing the cooling loop. Better order that PF5080 Fluorinert now... :D Then leak-test it. Meanwhile I will complete the wiring, hook up Divine Protection, and also the flow sensor.

BTW: here's the blanking plate for the mobo:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55232054.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/55232046.jpg

It's put together from two different type blanking plates. I thought the M2 hex screws look kinda cool.

Now all I have done so far is concentrated on getting functional insides. I have not done anything yet to make the case look pretty. But I have plans... You've already seen a glimpse of the case side panel logo, but I have some more neat ideas. Oh yes... Heavy Angel is gonna look cool... :cool:

[fillip]

<_< hmmm, i really think you should post your updates here first :D

nice work (since i didn't comment on Bit')

[Psykotik]

PF5080 eh?

4.5 litres of that lovely liquid winging its way to me as we speak :D

[Pug]

Love the pump bracket. It blends right in with the rest of the Alu.
Still got that attention to detail down perfectly. :cool:

[Nexxo]

No significant update (yet!). Just felt like pimping some teaser pictures. :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/57097995.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/57097834.jpg

[Nexxo]

Update! :D OK, not much, but I finally had some time to work on this project again...

Support your GPU! No, I don't mean waving scarves and chanting "Come on, GPU!" (although what you do with your PC in the privacy of your own home is entirely your own business... :unsure: ). I mean physically support it. As GPUs are getting more powerful and consequently, hotter, the waterblocks or heatshinks that are slapped on those GPUs to lather them in coolness keep keep growing in size and weight. Where will the madness end?

One company offers the solution of a "cardkeeper". I had one, people will remember. But I was perturbed. It did not offer enough support. It was not in keeping with the rest of the case. It was not shiny. It was not l33t. So, in the end, I designed my own (pathetic sketchup attempt ici):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2019740/60742483.jpg

Here's the sketch made flesh... er... aluminium:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635701.jpg

On the left, the bracket, lovingly crafted out of sheet aluminium. Because it was impossible to fold up the edges to form a 5mm groove, I had to get some extruded aluminium rod from B&Q, here on the right. They only do this weird "E" shape however...

No matter; just mod it!

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635695.jpg

That was a large cutting disk once... :p

Then I cut another slot:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635585.jpg

... so the whole bracket and rod assembly slots together:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635591.jpg

I need to put some M3 countersunk hex screws in there of course, to hold it all together. And here the result so far: Nexxo's all-aluminium GPU card support.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635595.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635600.jpg

Put some rubber fan hole trim along the GPU card (make sure it clears the components!):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635616.jpg

...and slide the card support bracket over it. Nice one.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635620.jpg

Here the card is not yet screwed down. I have to order some 15mm M3 hex screws and make/get some 8mm stand-offs for under the bracket. But apart from that, it all fits exactly as I expected. Once screwed in place, it will offer all the support the GPU card needs. B)

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635625.jpg

Fits nicely with the pump bracket:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635631.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635636.jpg

So that's what I've been up to. Oh, one more thing:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/62635609.jpg

:D

[mrplow]

Looks sexay!

[dutchcedar]

Very nice, nexxo... gotta love the way your bracketry looks unhackery and non-tackery... B)

[Starbuck3733T]

Yes, very nice bracket. I should have had to try to make me one, before my R9800Pro drooped. Great work!

[Nexxo]

... before my R9800Pro drooped...

Don't worry, happens to all us men sometimes... :p :D

[Starbuck3733T]

You're a silly silly silly man-psychologist nexxo. you can ask muh lady but i don't think that was a fruedian slip ;) LOL

[Nexxo]

I'm always keen to explore new boundaries of bad taste. :D

[Starbuck3733T]

LOL. Bad taste = telling you i'm on the toilet right now with my lappie. waiting for a server to finish its reboot before i head in to work.

[Nexxo]

You have a lappie in the toilet?!? :blink: Aren't you taking this computer geekness a bit far? ^_^

(Sounds like a great idea though!)

[Starbuck3733T]

Well, I realized I needed to reboot Athena and wanted to do it before everyone started showing up and hitting the server, so doing it before I went to work was a good idea. The fact I had to crap at the sametime was a coincidence.

[Nexxo]

Update city! First: Divine Protection does not work :mad: I test run it a week or so ago and it does not do what it says on the tin. Talked to Dr. Mike, and he thinks it's a problem with parasitic capacitances ( :blink: ) or the wrong value resistor in a certain spot ( :rant: ). Eitherway, he'll have to try again. Meanwhile however I've decided to bin the idea and forge ahead with my PC before it is out of date... Luckily I have a Matrix Orbital LCD (LK-204-USB-GW) and I will use this to monitor the flow sensor (Swissflow SF800) on the res inlet, and drive the blue/red power LED via its low power GPO LED bus, shutting the PC down via MBM if required. Not as robust as a pure hardware solution, but it will do.

I also managed to blag a green/yellow dual colour LED; the green will be HDD activity, yellow will be hooked to a LCD GPO to indicate LAN activity or e-mail notification or something pimp.

So just to show that things are ambling along: this is the reservoir fitted with the new flow sensor (rather than switch) so I can actually keep track of the exact flow per minute. Because I am an obsessive geek (it hooks up and reports RPM pulses just like an ordinary fan). :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/68986920.jpg

Below the res fitted and the cooling loop completed.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/68987285.jpg

Cables? What cables? :D

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/2678280/68986927.jpg


Some more stuff may get crammed in but Risky asked what I got so far, so I thought a list might be appropriate:

System:

- Dual Athlon 2800MP elegantly arranged on an MSI K7D Master-L mobo, resting in a Lian-Li PC-12 garnished with
- 4x80mm Panaflo fans;
- Zalman passive NB heatsink
- 5" LCD colour screen in the 3.5" bays
- 2x WD1200JB HDDs
- 2x Panasonic slot-loading laptop DVD/CD-RW drives
... plus 1 floppy drive
... plus 1 multi-media card reader
... tastefully slotted into two 5.25" mounting brackets (one with two USB 2.0 front ports)
- integrated Bluetooth module hidden behind the front bezel
- two dual colour LEDs: One red/blue for power (blue = on, red = pump failure/shut down initiated) one green/yellow for HDD (green is HDD activity; yellow is either LAN activity or e-mail notification).
- this will be steered over the LED bus of a Matrix Orbital LK-204-USB-GW (black characters on white backlit) display
- temp sensors with said LCD display
- 2x USB 2.0 6 port cards
- Firewire 3 port card
- ATi Radeon 9800Pro 256Mb graphics card

Cooling:

- 2x Phaze II blocks by Paul Vodrazka (limited run, not available anymore, so please don't e-mail, don't ask...)
- 1 chrome BIX
- 1 Maze4GPU sandblasted and polished chrome Coolermeister-style
- Davis Craig EBP 12V brushless pump
- Aluminium 120mm 12G12L Panaflo fan (again, not available anymore; look for occasional salvaged ones on e-Bay)
- 1 Aqua-Computer Aquatube, drilled out to accommodate wider diameter barbs, and with polished mounting plate
- Swissflow SF800 flow sensor
- 3/8" ID thick walled (3mm) Tygon tubing
- polished aluminium hose seperator by Billet Aluminium
- 2x Pi-Thon polished alluminium hose clamps
- 10x stainless steel (marine grade corrosion resistant) wormdrive hose clips
- the whole lot filled with 560ml of PF5080 Fluorinert
Designed and built by myself:
- 1 pump/radiator bracket and shroud
- 1 aluminium graphic card support


Power:

Antec 550 Truecontrol PSU, with controls modified and hidden behind the front bezel of the case (next to the 5" LCD)

Miscellaneous:

- more stainless steel hex screws and aluminium finishing caps than you can shake a stick at
- chrome ring pull handles
- "Tenderfeet" spun aluminium cones (originally anti-vibration feet) to tart up the fan grilles
- EL backlit front case badge
- loads of self-adhesive cable clips for keeping cables tidy
- rounded silver braided IDE and floppy cables
- 2mm thick plexiglass protective window for 5" LCD screen coated in special anti-reflective coating (like you get on camera lenses)
- the usual: braid, rubber edging, chrome PCB spacers etc.

More to come:

- Side window, laser etched (I have a great idea for this...)
- chrome side panels, laser etched and logo cut out
- cut out logo backlit by EL sheet
- some other case prettification, amonst which new case feet!
- some serious software customisation-- but that's another story... :D

Test run the coolant loop today. Pump is very quiet, but powerful --I still get vortices in the tubing. Unfortunately there's a tiny leak in the pump outlet barb connection, so I'll have to drain the thing, disconnect the pump and use Plumber's goop this time, instead of PTFE tape --this seems to work very well on the flow sensor barb seals. Draining will have to be done carefully as I got £70,-- ish of PF5080 in there...

Nearly there....

[Starbuck3733T]

Man, that's so clean. Where and how much did you get/pay for that flow sensor? It goes to show that projects can stay dorment for a while but still have work being done on them. We're employed full time ya know! the only person i know who of who mods like a madman and carries a job is zapwizard... he'll burn out eventually.

[mnpctech]

All I got is.... Damn, Nice work Nexxo!

[toby]

nice work, i want to see it finished tho!

[Knipex]

Seriously clean.

Seriously impressed.

Nice detail.
Love chrome

[fillip]

Man, that's so clean. Where and how much did you get/pay for that flow sensor? It goes to show that projects can stay dorment for a while but still have work being done on them. We're employed full time ya know! the only person i know who of who mods like a madman and carries a job is zapwizard... he'll burn out eventually.I think they're ordered direct from Swissflow and from what i've read on other forums it costs around 80 euros, which works out @ $99, not cheap then.

[EDIT]
I found this http://www.microplex.no/rubweb/php/rd.php?rd=AC53021&toc=5490 from a discussion on another forum too. It says it's AC and i don't know whwther the Aquero unit is also needed, but does anyone know if these are still made/sold, maybe Kazou our resident expert can help?

[furious trout]

Well i've kept up to date with this thread since the beginning, but having come back to it after a while it really does blow you away - that's some impressive work there Nexxo - My hat is well and truly off to you :lol:

[Yellowsnow17]

I found this http://www.microplex.no/rubweb/php/rd.php?rd=AC53021&toc=5490 from a discussion on another forum too. It says it's AC and i don't know whwther the Aquero unit is also needed, but does anyone know if these are still made/sold, maybe Kazou our resident expert can help?I have one of those flow sensors. They are made by AC and cost about 30 bucks. I use mine with an aquaero but I don't think you need to. I think you can plug it into a fan header on your mobo...

EDIT: I'm not so sure about the fan header now. It says in the product description that it is made to be plugged into the aquaero. It uses a 3-pin fan header but I dunno if I wanna try plugging it into my mobo...:huh:

[fillip]

Couldnt see anything of them on the AC site so i think they're solely for the Aquaero and now seem to have been integrated into the overall product.

[Nexxo]

Man, that's so clean. Where and how much did you get/pay for that flow sensor?

THe flow sensor is a Swissflow SF800. It works on 5-24V and gives off 500 pulses per liter per minute or something (there's a straight relationship anyway). It has only one frictionless moving part and is extremely reliable and long-lasting. It has 3/8" BSP thread, and you can hook it up to a mobo fan header. It can be ordered straight from Swissflow in Holland, for 50 euros.

Thanks for the compliments, guys! ^_^

[fillip]

I just had an email back form Dirk b. Van Wezel @ Swissflow.

There's a guy based in the UK who now acts as a rep' for the company and the Swissflow sensors can be purchased through him. If anyone wants and aslong as it's not infringing on any forum rules i'll post his email.

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

I've always enjoyed your project Nexxo but unfortuantly your pic host must also host less savoury photos as my work blocks it due to pronographic content. :mad:

I soooo neeeed my PC back :rant:

[Risky]

I've always enjoyed your project Nexxo but unfortuantly your pic host must also host less savoury photos as my work blocks it due to pronographic content. :mad:

I soooo neeeed my PC back :rant:

In some places the BOFHs seem to get on a bit of a power trip and have their filtering blocking everything. I'm currently at a large investment bank and its fairly sane, but my wife's place blocks all sorts, recruitment, travel, half of the rest of the web, sometimes even their own website!

Other places go into individual bandwith monitoring :eek:

[Starbuck3733T]

I just had an email back form Dirk b. Van Wezel @ Swissflow.

There's a guy based in the UK who now acts as a rep' for the company and the Swissflow sensors can be purchased through him. If anyone wants and aslong as it's not infringing on any forum rules i'll post his email.

Go for it!

[fillip]

SwissFlow UK Rep:

Dave Pleasants
david@dap-uk.freeserve.co.uk (david@dap-uk.freeserve.co.uk)
Tel:+44 115 9413 878
Fax:+44 115 8457525

[furious trout]

I just had an email back form Dirk b. Van Wezel @ Swissflow.

Best name in the world right there ^^

[Nexxo]

I've always enjoyed your project Nexxo but unfortuantly your pic host must also host less savoury photos as my work blocks it due to pronographic content. :mad:

I soooo neeeed my PC back :rant:

Hey. Metaversa is porn. Geek porn, that is. :p But yeah, I've got the same at one of my workplaces. Blocks almost everything that has image files in it per default (in. Google Image Search). It can get in the way of my research activities, at which point I feel like visiting IT to block someone's circulation of oxygen/blood to the head... <_<

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

As i work for the Faculty of Health and Social care they quite often have to search for things that other places would block. Our system works by allocating points to a word and if the number of points hits a limit, say 10 for example, the page gets blocked.

for example:

sex = 8 points

Anal = 10 points

Health = -10 points

Cancer = -10 points.

So the 'smut smasher' searches the page and if it finds the word anal the 10 point trigger is hit and the page is blocked but if its followed by the word health or cancer then it cancels it out and the page can be viewed. Its quite clever when it works. :rolleyes:

[Starbuck3733T]

Hey. Metaversa is porn. Geek porn, that is. :p But yeah, I've got the same at one of my workplaces. Blocks almost everything that has image files in it per default (in. Google Image Search). It can get in the way of my research activities, at which point I feel like visiting IT to block someone's circulation of oxygen/blood to the head... <_<

By blocking its like they're admitting that their employees do something wrong.

[Nexxo]

As i work for the Faculty of Health and Social care they quite often have to search for things that other places would block. Our system works by allocating points to a word and if the number of points hits a limit, say 10 for example, the page gets blocked.

for example:

sex = 8 points

Anal = 10 points

Health = -10 points

Cancer = -10 points.

So the 'smut smasher' searches the page and if it finds the word anal the 10 point trigger is hit and the page is blocked but if its followed by the word health or cancer then it cancels it out and the page can be viewed. Its quite clever when it works. :rolleyes:

OK, I'll call my project "Health Metaversa Health Mod Healthy Angel Health" :p

[fillip]

By blocking its like they're admitting that their employees do something wrong.
Your point? :huh:

^_^

[Starbuck3733T]

Your point? :huh:

^_^

Some court case, somebody v. compuserve. they ruled that since compuserve was blocking stuff, they could be held liable for the actions of their customers as if they were blocking it, the customers must have been doing it.

[fillip]

Some court case, somebody v. compuserve. they ruled that since compuserve was blocking stuff, they could be held liable for the actions of their customers as if they were blocking it, the customers must have been doing it.
Interesting... it's gonna be fun having to learn the American legal system in a couple of years time.
Coming from a background in the British legal system I don't see how that can hold up at all but thats the US for ya i s'pose.

[Starbuck3733T]

Thats what I was told, or something like that when I asked why we didn't block anything for P2P in our firewalls at work.

[fillip]

Thats what I was told, or something like that when I asked why we didn't block anything for P2P in our firewalls at work.
My uni' bans the use of all P2P software, we aren't restricted with our browsing but do have a 500mb d/load cap per week.
FTP is also banned which has screwed me as far as web development goes - testing on my own comp using Apache just isn't the same...

The reason most uni's in the UK ban P2P is because of the threat of being sued by the record companies. Students don't have money so no point in sueing them, so may aswell sue those who could prevent the use of the software especially when you can get speeds of over 300kb/s from your room! :D

Didn't stop me finding a p2p that isn't blocked by the uni' mind...

[toby]

500mb a week cap thats rubbish lol. hope i dont get a cap in the uni i move 2!

[fillip]

500mb a week cap thats rubbish lol. hope i dont get a cap in the uni i move 2!
Thing is, it's absolutely fine for general browsing - if you start watching every piece of news in the BBC video archive however....


I've never been banned and i'm sure i've exceeded it a couple of times, but they come down hard on ppl they know have p2p

1st offence - 1 days ban and a warning email
2nd offence - a weeks ban and a final warning email
3rd offence - kicked off Hallsnet (uni internet services) indefinately until you agree to remove all offending software, stick within the agreed limits and phone Hallsnet to say you'll never do it again - they can refuse to reconnect you if they're feeling like arseholes.

[toby]

yeah i know but if you have a few big files you want to download it could be pretty annyoning i mean most demos are around 3-400mb these days!i suppose you just have to be carefull!what uni are you going to?

[fillip]

yeah i know but if you have a few big files you want to download it could be pretty annyoning i mean most demos are around 3-400mb these days!i suppose you just have to be carefull!what uni are you going to?
I'm @ Keele in N. Staffordshire - final year of a law degree, was doing combined honours for my first 2 years with Information systems.

[/thread hijack]

[Nexxo]

OK, back to topic people... <_<

Today's Update pics:

The polished CCFL inverters (even though where they are mounted won't be very visible)...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/69917615.jpg

And some pimp shots of the system. All the cables that are going to be in there, have been put in now. The cooling system has been filled and test-run (all works OK; no leaks, pump powerful but quiet).
http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/69917631.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/69917650.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/69917677.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/69917695.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/69917740.jpg

I am now turning my attention to the finishing touches of the actual electronics, and trying some ideas for the inside case lighting.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/69917714.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/69917733.jpg

Hmmm. Needs some white laserleds to highlight details. Or blue? Or red? Purple? Decisions, decisions...

When that has been done, I will start doing some cosmetic stuff to the outside of the case --side panels, mostly. EL backlight, window, details...

OK. 'nuff pimping. Time to get back to work.

[fillip]

You must be itching to press that power switch!! i'm pretty sure everyone else who's followed this mod is too! :D


Are those inverters just polished aluminium sheet that you've fabricated?

And any colouring going in that water or you gonna break the trend?

[Nexxo]

I am. This week, fingers crossed...

The inverters came as is. The shop which sold them isn't on-line anymore, but I found that EL Wire Cheap .com (http://www.elwirecheap.com/coldcathodes.html) sells them at a very reasonable price.

I'm going to break the trend. This is necessity rather than anything else. PF5080 is much heavier than water (and most other liquids) and has a much lower surface tension. As a result water sort of beads and floats on top like oil. PF5080 also does not stick to anything. You pour it from its cannister there are no beads or droplets sticking to the wall that stay behind. As such PF5080 doesn't mix with anything. If I were to pour UV dye in there, it would simply bead together into droplets suspended in the PF5080 and at rest float to the top of the res. It simply would not dye the coolant. :mellow:

[mnpctech]

White LEDs has my vote..

Those invertor covers are tight.

[fillip]

White LEDs has my vote..
Ditto, coloured lighting has been done too many times and badly.

Nice clean white lighting, highlighting the waterblocks would be sweet.

I'd completely forgotten about the Flurinert you're gonna use - sorry.

[Nexxo]

Spotlighting the blocks with white LEDs is exactly what I had in mind. :D

[fillip]

Spotlighting the blocks with white LEDs is exactly what I had in mind. :D
Great minds and all that!

[Darv]

White is the new blue!!

It will definately go well with the clean looks in your case.

Looking forward to seeing it running!

[cools]

I was doing white 8 months ago :)

Green is now the new white ;)

[fillip]

I was doing white 8 months ago :)

Green is now the new white ;)
BAH! did green for my first mod 3 years ago :p

christ, we've developed our own form of fashion consciousness :mellow:

[Starbuck3733T]

Agreed, white is underutilized. Looks 'ethereal' (?) and ghostly. I like it a lot.

[datroll1]

As a wanna be modder I must say that I am in total awe of the workmanship and attention to detail of this mod. It is evident that your skills are refined and you have the ability to make your visions a reality. Now if I can do half as good of a job as you did I will be extremly happy with my first project.

John

[Nexxo]

Thanks, John. You may be heartened to know this is my first mod! ^_^

In fact, today was one of those small details that nearly gave me a stroke!
I rigged the mobo up for a first test-run. Plugged in the works, pressed "Power", and it started POSTing... and hung at IDE initialisation. :huh: Tried again but now it wouldn't even POST.

I thought: "Oh, F*CK, the mobo's b0rked! It's a D.O.A.! And you can't get any more K7Ds for love nor money! I'm so screwed! F*CK, F*CK, F*CK!!!" :rant: :confused: :eek: :angry: :(

After my moment of despair :( I started reading up on the Forums in 2CPU.com. There it mentions how particular the K7D is about its memory --it wants Crucial only. Registered. Please.

So I whipped out my (unknown brand, second-hand) memory and: it POSTs.

Experimented with some slot configurations and it now has 512Mb of (cr@p brand?) memory in slot 2. This at least allowed me to get to the BIOS Setup screen and look at the temps.

Result: both CPUs are currently running at 31 degrees C, system at 25C, at room temperature of 17C. Not bad, even if the CPUs are only idling at the moment... All this rather quietly.

EDIT: played around some more and found that the mobo will accept the current memory if installed in slot 2 and 3 for some reason.... no matter. Saves me buying some new stuff. :D

[fillip]

Metaversa is the only project log i've ever followed on 2 seperate forums. First i get the bit' email - read the post, then scarper over here to see if you omitted anything from the Bit' post ^_^


Lucky escape with the mobo, did you really not bother to test it when you got it in the first place :blink:

crazy man.

[Darv]

Woo, it's finally running. :wub: Got any pics of it going?

[cools]

Too bad, I sold 2 sticks of registered 512Mb Crucial a few weeks back :) Advertised on here too :)

The great part was they sold for 50% more than I paid for them :D

[Kickass]

i sold 4 sticks, altho they werent crucial.. £25 per 512mb

[Nexxo]

Lucky escape with the mobo, did you really not bother to test it when you got it in the first place :blink:

crazy man.
How? ^_^ It took about a year to get the GPU, CPUs, PSU and memory together...

Too bad, I sold 2 sticks of registered 512Mb Crucial a few weeks back Advertised on here too.

The great part was they sold for 50% more than I paid for them :D
So how would that be too bad for me, then? :D

[fillip]

You said on Bit' that you hooked up the SwissFlow to a fan header. Would you be able to describe/show me a pic of what you did with it so you could pull readings from it? please?

How far from completion is this project now?

[Nexxo]

You said on Bit' that you hooked up the SwissFlow to a fan header. Would you be able to describe/show me a pic of what you did with it so you could pull readings from it? please?

How far from completion is this project now?
Is simple. The flow sensor has 3 wires: +, GND and a signal line, exactly like a fan does. When you buy the Swissflow you get a little diagram with it that basically says you have to put a 2200ohm resistor between the + and signal line, and a 350ohm resistor on the + line so it will change the 12V from the mobo to a more acceptable 5V for the sensor. Slap a fan header on the three wires and plug it into a fan header on the mobo like you would a fan. In MBM you need to do some manipulation of the values to get flowrates (at the moment it just says 9500RPM on the BIOS).

The project is very close, but some cosmetics need to be done on the case. That involves laser cutting and etching, so may take some time. The insides are about a week from ready (just those accent lights, the colour LCD screen and some clever jiggery pokery with the power and status LEDs). The hardware and software will need some configuration. I have to flash the CD-Roms from Master to Slave or Cable Select (they don't have jumpers, they need to be flashed). I have to set up umpteen partitions on the HDDs. I have to configure the MO LCD... there is lots to do...

[Nexxo]

Major problems: tried the flash upgrade to the latest BIOS v1.91 (so it will work with 2800MPs) and that failed miserably --despite following instructions to the letter (I've done mobo flashes before, and it always worked). The mobo was a non-starter so recovery was impossible.

Got a new BIOS from Badflash.com (helpful guys) but still no joy --mobo appears well and truly dead now. I'm sending the BIOS chips back for checking and re-flashing but I do not hold out hope... I'm not a novice at BIOS replacement so it should have worked out. All I can think is that something conked out. :(

So this leaves me in a quandry... What do I do? :confused:

I am currently negotiating a sale of a 2nd hand K7D Master-L mobo which has v1.91 already on it, and works, so I don't have to go through that again. I can just swap the mobo and I'm away. This would be the cheapest solution, so fingers crossed.

Alternatively I can just dig into my credit card and make the jump to the K8T Master-2Far dual Opteron board now. It has the same layout, more or less uses the same components, so it is more or less a straight swap.

More or less. The Phase II blocks by Vodrazka only fit Athlon Socket A, or P4 boards. You could adapt them to the required Xeon mounts (yes, this is an Opteron board but MSI used Xeon holes and optional plastic P4 clamps to save space) but I'd need someone with good CNC skills to make the parts for me... So I'd have to lose them and use, say, DangerDen's TDX blocks (Xeon flavour). So I have quite a bit of added expense, and would be left with two 2800MPs and to beautiful, but (for now) useless blocks...

So, is there a good CNC router operator out there? Anyone? Please? :huh:

[fillip]

Damn dude that's a f****ng arse!


sometimes things like that can just happen but you would thought they'd be able to make the flashing process almost infalable by now.
Personally I think you should save yourself some mullah and get the v1.91 board making damn sure you can use those lurvely water blocks you got.

sorry again man. :(

[Starbuck3733T]

You might want to see if you can get ahold of MMZ Timelord on pro/forums. Or bladerunner since he's on your side of the pond. Both of them have CRAZY non-CNC skills and could bust out whatever you want pretty easily.

[Nexxo]

Already on it. ;) Enak at Bit-tech does small CNC jobs for a reasonable fee (he is on the Behemoth robotwars team, so I guess he's got skillz) and he has agreed to make me some adapter parts.

This allows me to get the MSI K8T Master 2-Far. Already talked to Scopedog about the properties of this board. I also have nailed two matched opteron 250s at half price(!)... So we'll see how we go from here.

Anyone interested in a pair of Athlon 2800 MPs and 1800 MPs?

[Starbuck3733T]

I might be - gotta see if the MCL (materials characterization lab) wants to move forward on thier image DB first. I'll let you know if they do.

[Greeny]

Are the XP1800's later revision cores? Can you post their OPN's if possible? I'm considering picking up some MP's for buidling a gaming server and I need something cheap that I can clock.

Cheers.

[Nexxo]

The 1800Mps have been sold, sorry...

[Greeny]

No problem, the more I thought about it the more the idea of just buying an MP board and wire tricking a couple of XP1700's to work in it seemed like a better idea.:D

[Yellowsnow17]

Dual Opteron 250's, droooool!

I know it wasn't intended, but it is kinda funny that this rig is already having its hardware upgraded before the project is done. Looking forward to the imminent conclusion of this project. Your patience is second to none Nexxo! ^_^

[Nexxo]

Small update: Metaversa has been put on hold a bit while we are modding the kitchen... the joys of home improvement. The kitchen area is a building site and the new kitchen is in boxes in the living room, so I've had little time or space to work on it. Another delay... :sigh:

On the positive side, meanwhile Enak has applied his l33t CNC skillz on making new mounting collars for the blocks, thus allowing them to be mounted to the Xeon mountings on the K8T-Master 2Far Opteron board. Given the peculiarity of the mountings and the cramped layout, a bespoke solution was sort of necessary... The blocks came with Athlon K7 and P4 mountings only, and since the original designer has stopped making them (indeed, seems to have fallen off the planet), I had to turn to Enak to design and manufacture new collars:

http://www.makerobotics.com/specials/nexxo/nexxo3.jpg

A Phaze II block with its new Xeon mounting collar.

I cannot emphasise enough how tricky a proposition this was. The blocks (and collars) are a complex shape with exact tolerances, and Enak only had the original K7 collars to work from. He made a special effort to keep the design of the Xeon collars in keeping with the original aesthetics of the blocks. As such the result has surpassed even my (pretty high) expectations. All for a fee that seems laughably cheap.

If you want a CNC job done, and you can afford it (you will --prices are very reasonable), and you know where to find him, maybe YOU can hire... the Enak Team! (cue music: Ta ta-taa, dum-dee dum...) :D

He's doing my side panels next. :D

[fillip]

Looks schweet!

Can we see a pic of just the mounting, i.e. not installed with the Phaze II?

I see something like one the background (or is that the old mount :unsure: ) but i was curious as to how the whole thing looked.

[Nexxo]

Looks schweet!

Can we see a pic of just the mounting, i.e. not installed with the Phaze II?

I see something like one the background (or is that the old mount :unsure: ) but i was curious as to how the whole thing looked.
Here ya go:
http://www.makerobotics.com/specials/nexxo/nexxo1.jpg

[fillip]

Cheers.

That's some extremely neat work there. May have to look Enak up sometime in the future so 'll take this as a good recommendation.

Is that bit of damage in the top right of the picture deliberate?

[EDIT] Just remembered, isn't Enak the guys who fabricated a custom mount for his 3 TFT screens out of some steel tubing?

[Nexxo]

Cheers.

That's some extremely neat work there. May have to look Enak up sometime in the future so 'll take this as a good recommendation.

Is that bit of damage in the top right of the picture deliberate?
That was a program glitch in the CNC workbench. Enak simply cut me another one, free of charge. B)

[Knipex]

Gotta love custom CNC work..

Almost makes me wish I kept at it for a living... (almost)

[Nexxo]

We're resuming construction! Here are some pics of the blocks test fitted with the new brackets that Enak'c l33t CNC skillz have provided:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/79062426.jpg

The whole lot stays nicely clear of the AGP slot...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/79062420.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/79062425.jpg

The original solid metal socket mounting backplates on the MSI K8T Master 2Far helpfully have an M3 thread. So it was easy to use some M3 screws to firmly attach the blocks to the motherboard without putting any strain on it.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/79062397.jpg

The whole lot is very similar in arrangement to the K7D Master setup so I hardly will have to change anything about the tubing. Next I will re-cut some bits out of the mobo to make it all fit nicely. And put in some LEDs. Why? You'll see.

Because this setup requires a little more juice over the 12V line, I got a PC Power & Cooling server PSU to replace the Antec.

More to follow soon! :cool:

[fillip]

Next I will re-cut some bits out of the mobo to make it all fit nicely. And put in some LEDs. Why? You'll see.

Cut some bits out of your mobo?! :blink: Crazy man.

Those waterblocks look trippy, shows just how good a job Enak did with the brackets.
Good to see progress too. ^_^

[Nexxo]

Cut some bits out of your mobo?! :blink: Crazy man.
Sorry, mobo TRAY. :wacko: I'm going to cut some bits out of the mobo tray! ^_^

Never would I even try to cut into a mobo. That's just crazy talk! :p

[fillip]

Never would I even try to cut into a mobo. That's just crazy talk! :p
Must tell you something then that I actually considered you did mean your board. ;)

[Canada_Dry]

you lost me on that one fillip, I don't understand :p

you did solder on your moboard...why not give it a cut or 2 ;)

[fillip]

you lost me on that one fillip, I don't understand :p

you did solder on your moboard...why not give it a cut or 2 ;)
Not to worry, must be something in the transatlantic humour void... Aslong as Nexxo gets it.

[Fibbles]

Sorry, mobo TRAY. :wacko: I'm going to cut some bits out of the mobo tray! ^_^

Never would I even try to cut into a mobo. That's just crazy talk! :p
No it's not!!! Cut that mobo up!!! Post piccies of it being cut the hecky uppy!!! ^_^ Err, too many Dr. Peppers make me happy and stuff. That's some nice CNC work I'll add though. Very nice, very very nice. :)

I'm thinking about searching my yellow pages to find some one willing to make me a bracket for an Innovatek XX-Flow so I can mount it more like those and any "normal" blocky.

[Risky]

SwissFlow UK Rep:

Dave Pleasants
david@dap-uk.freeserve.co.uk (david@dap-uk.freeserve.co.uk)
Tel:+44 115 9413 878
Fax:+44 115 8457525

Has anyone dealt with this guy?

[Fibbles]

Has anyone dealt with this guy?
Send him an email asking for refs? That might be too awkward though :huh:

[fillip]

I sent him several emails agaes ago when i originally posted the contact info, but he never got back to me, so he's either no longer their rep' or he's a bloody useless rep' - either way... http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/mad2.gif

[Nexxo]

Same here --that guy was a waste of carbon. Talk to the Swissflow people in Holland directly (e-mail is on their website). They are prompt and helpful.

[Pug]

Damn! Fine job on future-proofing those blocks...
I know Enak's name from somewhere, I'm sure... time to remember it now. :cool:

[fivecheebs]

Enak = kane .... IIRC hes on the behemoth team for robot wars :h34r:

[fillip]

Enak = kane .... IIRC hes on the behemoth team for robot wars :h34r:
Thats the guy.

[Nexxo]

Yeah, after seeing G69T's completely CNC'd, own design aluminium computer case on the Bit-Tech forums (Project Logs), I am starting to wonder whether I should just sell my Coolermaster ATC S4000 and talk to Enak about CNC-ing my own design aluminium case for me... I have walked around with some ideas for a while. When Metaversa is done I think I'll fire up SketchUp again... :D

[fivecheebs]

That case will be a work of art when its done. Im interested to see your ideas on a completely bispoke design nexxo :)

[Risky]

Yeah, after seeing G69T's completely CNC'd, own design aluminium computer case on the Bit-Tech forums (Project Logs), I am starting to wonder whether I should just sell my Coolermaster ATC S4000 and talk to Enak about CNC-ing my own design aluminium case for me... I have walked around with some ideas for a while. When Metaversa is done I think I'll fire up SketchUp again... :D

let me know if its going cheep :D

[Nexxo]

let me know if its going cheep :D
I dunno... the ATC-S4000 is not a cheap case to start with... it's utter quality though. I'd part with it for £350,-- ono...

[Darv]

Not checked this in a while but it's still looking great! You got any plans to polish up the blocks? (sorry if I've missed that somewhere :wacko: )

[Nexxo]

Already done.

That case will be a work of art when its done. Im interested to see your ideas on a completely bispoke design nexxo
Well, it will have a fold-out secondary LCD screen, and possibly a back-up laser keyboard. It will be liquid cooled. It will be loaded up with Aqua-Computer stuff. It will have plexiglass panels mixed with aluminium, titanium bolts etc... I'm already playing with some ideas... B)

[fivecheebs]

Im really supprised you havennt mentioned a bispoke, concealed wiring loom, but im sure ideas are fruitful in your mind :D

[Nexxo]

Im really supprised you havennt mentioned a bispoke, concealed wiring loom, but im sure ideas are fruitful in your mind :D
Funny you should mention that... B) Yes, bespoke hidden wiring is definitely involved. ;)

[fivecheebs]

good god man ... hurry up and finish heavy angel .... i want to see more B)

[Nexxo]

Small (but significant) update: Metaversa is up and running! ^_^

Booted up successfully a few hours ago. Temperatures maintain stability at about 40C and 39C respectively for the CPUs. Given that they are on a single loop with a Radeon 9800 Pro, that is not bad at all for a single BIX radiator (with a low-flow Panaflo fan). It doesn't even feel luke-warm. I like an efficient, well thought out circuit... :D

Pics will follow when I tidy up the last wires a bit.

[Pug]

Small (but significant) update: Metaversa is up and running! ^_^

Booted up successfully a few hours ago. Temperatures maintain stability at about 40C and 39C respectively for the CPUs. Given that they are on a single loop with a Radeon 9800 Pro, that is not bad at all for a single BIX radiator (with a low-flow Panaflo fan). It doesn't even feel luke-warm. I like an efficient, well thought out circuit... :D

Pics will follow when I tidy up the last wires a bit.

Wooooo!!! :cool:

*starts chant* Pics, pics, pics....

[fillip]

Now now! http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/rant.gif

[EDIT] ^^ LOL

[Starbuck3733T]

WOOT WOOT WOOT WOOT WOOT WOOT WOOT WOOT

*why is it the two guys with the projects that have been running forever seem to have major updates at roughly the same time?*

[scopEDog]

Small (but significant) update: Metaversa is up and running! ^_^

Booted up successfully a few hours ago. Temperatures maintain stability at about 40C and 39C respectively for the CPUs. Given that they are on a single loop with a Radeon 9800 Pro, that is not bad at all for a single BIX radiator (with a low-flow Panaflo fan). It doesn't even feel luke-warm. I like an efficient, well thought out circuit... :D

Pics will follow when I tidy up the last wires a bit.
So where is the Metaversa release party? I'm getting the beers and burgers for a BBQ :) Nice bro, looking forward to this one

[Starbuck3733T]

That's a good idea. We should start doing case release parties! Perhaps a bunch of us sit on 'final' updates to stir up the talk and pull people to wizd...


.

.

.

... and an excuse to drink ;)

[Leeum]

I'll drink to that :D

[Nexxo]

This is my first post on Metaversa (I've named her: Navi). Yeah! :D

It is fast. Really fast. I mean, waaaayyy fast! No matter what I throw at it, it doesn't even hesitate...

Temps stay stable at 43C max (peaking briefly at 44C if I really make it work for a living). Nice. B)

[fivecheebs]

Nice, glad your pleased after the long slog .....

Now where are those prommised pics :rant::p

[cools]

It is fast. Really fast. I mean, waaaayyy fast! No matter what I throw at it, it doesn't even hesitate...
I still remember installing SP4 for Win2K in approximately 15-20 seconds.

And then when SP2 for Windows XP was released having it take the same amount of time :)

I'm seriously thinking about getting this box finished off and then selling it as a complete unit though, I could really do with the cash :(

[dutchcedar]

Nexxo... we need another reason to tip a few, so post them pics. :rant:



Congrats on gettin' her up and runnin'... dutch pops beer number one and refuses to post a pic of him drinkin' it 'cause this is obviously a picless party. :lol:

[Leeum]

You can finally reap the benfits of a [insert word here] hot SMP system; let your hard work pay off big time, you deserve it after all. *also starts chant* pics pics pics :lol: :D

[mnpctech]

I hope yr taking some pics ;)

[Starbuck3733T]

He darn better be.

[Knipex]

Where are these pics you speak of ??????

[fivecheebs]

Nexxo... we need another reason to tip a few,
LOL speak for yourself dutch ;) ..... oooh look monday night .... tine to tip a few ^_^

Look out Nexxo, We'll be round yours with pitchforks soon baying(sp?) for blood :h34r:

[Leeum]

Darn straight we will ;) Infact, let's not hassle him, i'm sure he's been up to something all this time, it's worth waiting for.

[Nexxo]

OK, here are some pics, but you may be disappointed... <_< We're still very much in the Under Construction phase here. Some technical difficulties: the flash files to make the DVD/CD-RW drives think they are Slaves instead of Masters turn out to be the wrong ones, so I have had to go back to Panasonic... this may take a while. As such I cannot yet tidy up the IDE cabling properly.

I need a bit more PF-5080 to top up the system, but Inertx.com is out... so I have to get some from TCM Indistries in the US. Obstacles, obstacles...

What I did so far: I cut out the mobo tray to accommodate the mounting sockets on the new mobo. I figured I'll make it a feature. I can put some LEDs between the mobo and the tray and see how it looks. The additional holes are under the "hot spots" of the Mobo: the SB chip and the memory sockets. System temps in any case do not exceed 26C so it may work...

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/85530730.jpg

Here a detail of the GPU support, which now has two countersunk hex screws in it to keep it together and improve structural stability.

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/85530758.jpg

Captain Slug over at Bit-Tech donated some of his home-made cable separators for my IDE cables: here a test fit:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/85530780.jpg

And here the pimp shots of the system topped up and ready to run:

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/85530809.jpg

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/85530798.jpg

Excuse the wiring mess --still working on that.

I am a bit disappointed with the 5" LCD screen --it's a bit fuzzy (despite adjustments). Here you see a test-run of it displaying Glint (http://www.scitechconcept.com/glint.html):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/85530851.jpg

The squares flash prettily at least. :)

And here is Scanner (http://www.steffengerlach.de/freeware/):

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL332/717679/5462051/85530866.jpg

So that's it. As I said: not much to look at at the moment; I still have lighting and cables to work out. It runs, and it runs very well, and quietly, but cosmetically and in terms of finishing touches there is still some work to do...

[Risky]

Excuse the wiring mess --still working on that..

Excuse me but that just ain't a wiring mess!

[Starbuck3733T]

Excuse me but that just ain't a wiring mess!

Amen, the only mess i see is up front above the rad!

[Leeum]

Wiring doesn't get much cleaner than that, i still can't get over how clean the setup is :D Any shots of your MO LCD yet? :lol:

[Nexxo]

OK, photos! There was a technical problem with my host, so I haven't been able to upload them before. But here they are.

Before we continue, a small but important warning for all you modders out there: DO NOT BUY USB 2.0 PCI CARDS BUILT AROUND THE VIA VT6202 CHIP!
This chip has serious issues with windows (XP, anyway) preventing it from functioning as a USB 2.0 card --it will work as USB 1.1 only. Attempts over the last years by Mircrosoft and VIA to resolve the driver issues around thic chip have met with failure. Some companies have tweaked onto this and have started to change chipsets, but the VIA is an ubiquitous chip and many shops still sell USB2.0 devices with this chip. Inspect closely, and avoid. To illustrate:

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/2019740/86287005.jpg

On your left, a PCI USB 2.0 card with the (bad) VIA chip. On your right, an identical card but with an Ali chip! This chip, by the way, works like a charm --you don't even need the driver disk, Windows XP SP2 recognizes it off the bat.

OK, moving on now...

Some more eye-candy of the 5" screen: Displaying a wallpaper:

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86286970.jpg

Displaying a screensaver by Goheer.com. Just eyecandy. :)

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86286975.jpg

Some wiring of the internal lighting: a white LazerLED and a LEd for the Aquatube. Note that the connectors are colour-coded: white = 5V, black = 12V.

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86286965.jpg

Bright enough for ya? :D

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86286958.jpg

The case up and running. Still a work in progress, but nearly there. I also managed to get about the last bottle of PF-5080 Armari still had lying about in stock somewhere, so no my system is fully topped up. This not only made it whisper quiet, it seems to have knocked a degree of my temps. They now read: CPU1: 42C, CPU2: 40C and System: 26C respectively at a room temperature of 18C.

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86286838.jpg

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86283561.jpg

And experiments with some accent lighting. There will be more, but this is the more "functional" lighting of the blocks and tubing (EDIT: made a better pic).

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86296406.jpg

Much more to do. I have to re-flash the DVD/CD-RW drives to Slave mode, then I can tidy up the IDE cables. Then I have to finalise lighting and tidy up the power cables. Meanwhile I will be looking at cutting a window in the side panel (one side) and perforated aluminium in the other panel --and get a chrome panel CNC'd for the logo there --EL backlit. Need to order machine screws for the mountings... design the window etch... stuff to do, stuff to do...

EDIT: Some more gratuitous pimpage: :D

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86296430.jpg

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86296413.jpg

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86296399.jpg

It's ALIVE! :D

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86296392.jpg

[fivecheebs]

a feast for the eyes. Good job mate. Interesting sounding logo, EL backlit crome doohicky!

Via and USB have never been good (i've not liked the motherboard chipsets either for that matter), all kinds of problems i have seen in the past.

[biggiy6]

I love the lighting. The tubing looks good with those hose connectors I think they were.

Are you going to paint the front panel so it matches the drives or leave it stock?

[Starbuck3733T]

Man, it's been so long I forgot what the outside of the case looks like... any plans to paint it?

The rest looks marvelous. Your attention to detail = awesome. that 3/4" tubing is intimidating :)

[Nexxo]

No paint job planned --although I may wax it (there is some sort of thing called "Back to Black" for valeting the black plastic trim on cars). I don't know why the bezel looks grey on that one photo --it doesn't in real life and the drives blend right in But I'll see. If it doesn't look right in bright sunlight, I will paint it.

[Knipex]

The details and finishing touches are amazing..

I would give painting a second thought if I were you. Really finish it off

[Yaik]

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: me droolls......... if u end up selling it, how much will u ask for it? :confused:

[Nexxo]

The details and finishing touches are amazing..

I would give painting a second thought if I were you. Really finish it off
You are starting to talk me into it... *sticks fingers in ears* Nananananaah! I'm not listening! :D

[fillip]

You know, painting it would look good http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/tongue.gif

[Pug]

Yay! Pics!!! :cool:

Looking good mate.
Btw, I'll take that screen if it's too fuzzy for ya... ;)

Hmm, you have plenty red bits in there, did you not consider those anod separators that cheebs had in fs&w for your leads?


Overall? I love it mate. :wub:

[Nexxo]

Naah, the screen is not too bad now I've tweaked all those adjustable resistors on its PCB.

As for cheebs' separators: I had considered them --about a year ago! But I had to reject that possibility as they are made for 8mm diameter cables only, and the IDE cables are 11mm diameter...

Thanks for teh compliments. :D

[mnpctech]

The choice of lighting is killa :cool:

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/86296430.jpg

[Nexxo]

Thanks. I experimented with some purple LEDs today, but it just didn't look right. I think I will stick with those white LEDs only and let the engineering detail speak for itself. Now I've cleaned the outside of the tubing (got a bit dirty with all that handling) it reflects like clear glass --very nice.

[Starbuck3733T]

what did you use to clean the tubing?

[Nexxo]

Just a warm damp cloth with a tiny ammount of detergent.

[Starbuck3733T]

I hope they stay that clear on the insides. Mine just keep clouding up. It's probably the clearflex60 vs the tygon r3603.

[Leeum]

Most likely, i settled for Clearflex aswell. There's always next time ;)

[Nexxo]

They should-- PF-5080 is completely inert, remember? Doesn't react with anything, and leaves no residue. So far, the tubing looks virginal whereas with distilled water + 5% Zerex racing solution it clouded over in a matter of days.

[Starbuck3733T]

woahhh i forgot that you were running that. i think that window etch of yours would remind me.

[Nexxo]

Once the etch is actually in place, perhaps... ^_^

But just to show you how clear and shiny the tubing is:

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/88466158.jpg

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/88466154.jpg

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/88466150.jpg

Excuse the fuzzy shots. I was working in low res and couldn't be arsed to get the mini tripod. However I also think my host makes them look a bit fuzzy... I may have to look at another one. <_<

I've also been working on tidying up the cabling a bit. Now Metaversa sports multi-media card reader and Bluetooth. :D

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL932/717679/5462051/88466134.jpg

[Leeum]

What camera is it you use Nexxo? Takes damn good photos ^_^

[Nexxo]

It's a Fuji FinePix s602. 3Mpixel, extraploated to 6Mp; 6x optical zoom and macro zoom function for very, very close up. It does take good pics but unfortunately a lot of my project log shots are a bit perfunctory and in the evenings I need a tripod really for a sharp shot (flash just blurs everything), so they don't really do the camera justice.

I need photoshop to clean things up really...

[Pug]

Fwiw, a couple of those cheapy halogen angleable desklamps can do wonders for an impromptu studio (reminds me,I must get a pair myself).

[Starbuck3733T]

New toy here... welll... at work. Nikon D70 SLR 7mega pixel. Gotta get my fingers on it. Fly me over there and I'll photograph for you :)

[fivecheebs]

haha .... star = the model of generosity. ;)

[scopEDog]

Might be a silly question nexxo buuuut...Do you have an idea how much the case weighs with the 5080 in there? Just curious how much weight it adds.

[Nexxo]

Not silly at all --an important consideration for LAN portability and structural integrity! I actually weighed my BIX filled with water because I wanted to make sure of the mounting support it would need (it was 800 grammes, for those who want to know ^_^ ).

PF-5080 is 1.78 times as heavy as water. My system holds about 600ml of coolant --about two pounds worth of PF-5080. All in all it doesn't add too much weight over water. If you know how much coolant you poured in, you can calculate the extra weight it would add to your system to swap to PF-5080.

When you do though, you have to dry out your system thoroughly to get all the water out (some often gets stuck in the rad). Luckily water doesn't mix with PF-5080 but will bead and float on top much like oil does on water. You can then skim the droplets off and after a few runs end up with a clear system.

New toy here... welll... at work. Nikon D70 SLR 7mega pixel. Gotta get my fingers on it. Fly me over there and I'll photograph for you :)
Better still, just post the camera and I'll do it myself! :D

[Starbuck3733T]

I think they might garnish my pay over that :(

[Nexxo]

Can't blame a guy for trying... :p