Project Superman

[JBM]

I have been playing :D

I am now an expert with a dremel, well sorta. I found the curves to be easier than the long straight lines. Oh well. I primed it, but i need to break out the dremel again, im a nit picker.

The bezel looks like hell lol. I shaved off the plastic grills, but i left the inside ones to help hold the fibermesh. Fiberglass is hard as a rock!

Anyways, you guys ever see that black duct anywhere before :rolleyes: , i had to try this mod, it is simply the best thing i have ever seen !!!

This week i hope to drill out my rivits,, move onto a lighter body filler, fix a couple little things on my side panel, maybe a blow hole on the top, but i dunno, i want a more quiet case *shrug*.

Enough blah blah, here ya go:

http://home.comcast.net/~cementheadd/Superman.zip

http://home.comcast.net/~cementheadd/DCP_0417.jpg

[Kickass]

quality job with the dremel! ive never had a chance to use one :|

[mnpctech]

Very nice dremel work JBM!

btw: You can upload images to the WizD forum via "Manage Attachments" button. 2 per post/reply. Limit per file is 39.1 KB

[JBM]

Thanks for the vote of confidence ;)


I am a mason by trade and i use those types of cutting wheels all the time.

I have a gas powered cut off saw with a 14" blade i was thinking of using for the long straight lines, as i can cut with the gas saw very precise. I decided the thinkness would be too thin and the big wheel would heat the metal up too much and it might warp, then i would be :rant:

I am now thinking i should have cut out the whole area on the bezel,and modded a curved piece of sheetmetal, as there is quite alot of layers of filler i need to do now, to match the contour of the door.

But anyways, i feel my biggest challenge will be to sleave my power supply. On a technical scale of 1-10 what would you guys rate it? I live 20 minutes from performance-pc, and can easily just bring it to them, if it is beyond what i want to tackle right now.

[fivecheebs]

Nice clean cuts.

But anyways, i feel my biggest challenge will be to sleave my power supply. On a technical scale of 1-10 what would you guys rate it? I live 20 minutes from performance-pc, and can easily just bring it to them, if it is beyond what i want to tackle right now.

It shouldnt be too hard. The molexes ocme off easily, just look for 2 tabs each side of the pin, bend them in and pull out the wire. If you can get hold of those vantec ezy grip molexes the usually come in a pack of 10 UV reactive colours and a tool to help with the removal. Here in england they are only 5 quid for a set, worth it for the tool IMO. The worst is the atx connector, fidly bastids, i fashoned a tool with a thick wire paperclip flatened on one side with my griding wheel. A very lonog way from perfect though. I have to say its one of my least favorite things to do.

[JBM]

Ive been sanding for days :rant:

Does fiberglass and whatnot set up as quick for everyone else as it does me?

Anyways, although it looks spotty i can assure you it is perfectly smooth :)

What ya guys think?

http://home.comcast.net/~cementheadd/DCP_0425.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~cementheadd/DCP_0422.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~cementheadd/DCP_0421.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~cementheadd/DCP_0420.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~cementheadd/DCP_0424.jpg

[mnpctech]

JBM, your photo links are bad.

Again, You can upload images from your PC to the WizD forum via "Manage Attachments" button. 2 per post/reply.

Limit per file size is 39.1 KB

If you have more than 2 photos, simply reply to your thread to post additional photos.

I did this few weeks ago when my Server was being repaired. We're lucky WizD provides this resource :)

[Kickass]

just resize them to less than 100k each and put the img tags in there... so much easiar!

[Sinner]

says the page is unavailable. upload the pics to WizD

[FastRedPonyCar]

also, you can go to www.photobucket.com (http://www.photobucket.com/) for free image hosting. They let you upload files up to 250k, have up to I think 12 multiple uploads at a time and have the hotlink and html tags ready to copy and paste. :D

[Starbuck3733T]

Save for the bandwidth limit its pretty useful.

[JBM]

Sorry about the links guys. I am switching over to dsl, got a much better price than what comcast was charging me. I dont have it up yet though, as my computer is in pieces.

I have stumbled on a problem though. I had my bezel primered with dupli colors scratch filler sandable primer. When i apply the dupli color "intense blue" metallic paint, it is drying flat in the areas that didnt have the body filler on it. Where i have the body filler is nice and glossy. My side panel came out mint also. I think i have just a primer problem. The bezel was wetsanded so was the primer. I put on like 3 or 4 coats of primer , now i have on about 3 coats of blue, i was hoping it would go away.....

Anyone have a problem like this b4 ?

Thanks.

[mnpctech]

Try applying primer again so it has consistant coating.

Don't wetsand primer unless its unreasonably rough. You want paint to adhere to it.

FYI: Sandable primer produces a real dusty coating. Notice that?
Wipe down the dried primer with tack cloth before painting.

[JBM]

Thanks for the tips. I just picked up a sealer primer or primer sealer, this worth using?

BTW the bezel with its turbine fan mod is coming out soooo sweet, i cant wait till its done.

Ill get some pics up when i can de-wire tie my cable moden, router, copier, and fax.... we need to start doing behind the desk easy wire mods :blink:

[JBM]

Well i wetsanded my bezel and its door, applied 2 coats of primer, and hit the door with one coat of the blue. Its flat, and dull. I am going to try to find an enamel thats about the same color, this is weird. Maybe the laquer doesnt like to evaporate on the plastic?

[Knipex]

Find a sandable Hi build primer... 2 heavy coats of this followed by a good sanding and a rub of tack cloth should give you an even surface.

If not you have a problem underneath all the existing primer. Sand it down with 12grit all over. Find a good automotive paint supplier and get some good quality panel wipe. Wipe the entire surface down (wear gloves and follow instructions on can) Prime and wipe again. Build up 4 to 5 layers of primer.

At this stage whats underneath is irrelevant and you should get a good even cover with whatever paint you use.

[mnpctech]

applied 2 coats of primer, and hit the door with one coat of the blue. Its flat, and dull

but is the paint coat consistant now?

If it is, allow the paint to dry for @ least 24 hours, then apply a clearcoat over the metallic paint. Make sure the clear is laquer if metallic paint is laquer. Mist the clear over the paint in 3 - 4 light coating intervals.

[JBM]

Yes the paint is consistant. It is the same as before-flat and dull. Before i had on 3 coats of primer, and 3 coats of the blue. I did the same thing to my side panel, and it came out great. Its just where the plastic is. The area with the body filler is very shiny and glossy, on the bezel.

I found that daft stuff you were talking about, it says that it is a laquer, so thats not able to be put on an enamel right?

I am going to sand the bezel door down again, and try an enamel, see if it does the same thing.

[JBM]

Quick question, are the fan blades of the 120mm fan supposed to be wider than the fan duct?

[mnpctech]

Heres the Deft (http://doitbest.com/shop/product.asp?mscssid=KADH3KKH0DDQ9HDWB7K4H60V89A228 T0&dept%5Fid=3570&sku=781050) I speak of.

120mm fan blades will not fit inside duct.

You shorten duct to fit between the 120mm intake and bezel.

http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/1DUECE/MHQ5.jpg

http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/1DUECE/MHQ6.5.jpg

http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/1DUECE/MHQchss2.jpg

http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/1DUECE/may22noseWb.jpg

[SlipSand]

:eek: Drooool! you are mod god!

[JBM]

Ok ok, i got it. I must have been inhaling too many paint fumes. I thought the edge of the fan blades would have been seen through the duct.

Ya that daft stuff, they sell it at lowes here. Is it good for enamels ?

I now have a gloss black bezel-enamel. I dont know why, but the black is perfect, maybe the metalic stuff doesnt like to dry on plastic, who knows.

I will attempt to hook up my dsl sometime soon, and pop up some pics. I cant believe how well the bezel came out :blink:

But air bubbles....if i see one more i will :rant:

[JBM]

I finally have my dsl sorted out, but i dont know how to resize my files. It said they are 700 mb, lol. I need photoshop right?

Anyways dont give up on me, i am almost done :blink:

[toby]

no you dont need photoshop there is a free powertoy from the microsoft site that enables you to resize pictures down in batch loads, its great and much better than doing it in photoshop, i will look for a link but its on the microsoft site somewhere

[toby]

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx


found it!!!

[fillip]

Looks like a handy little tool there, gonna give it a go myself.

[JBM]

Ill check it out, thanks :)

[JBM]

Ok, i am testing out my resized images :rant:

I am good at taking stuff apart, but programs...forget it :cool:

I am putting on a final coat of blue, yes blue, today, i think it was too humid here in Fl. when i painted b 4, it looks fine now :wacko:

[JBM]

Couple more.

[JBM]

Some pics of the paint

[JBM]

Just gave wetsanding a go. My first time, so i didnt know what to expect with the finer sandpaper. Finally found that sanding at the same height as the panel while going slow was working the best. ( I sat on a bucket with it on a short bench)

There are some little dots, i mean not very many at all, but i can see a few, should i keep going with the 2000 until they are all gone??

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1294486DCP0442(WinCE).JPG


http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1294493DCP0445(WinCE).JPG

Looks good to me ^_^

[mnpctech]

Hi JBM,

The first photo is too small for me to tell.

Are you wetsanding the paint.... or clear?

[JBM]

I am wetsanding the dEft stuff(not daft-doh ! :wacko: ). I only have almsot micro shiney dots. Like 99.9 % of it has sand marks.

I made a quicky home page at: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-cementheadd

where i have bigger pics-and thumbnails under photo albums, i think some people here have 56k still.

I wasnt able to capture any of the shiney dots though.

[Mr.B]

What paint is that man, could you give me the name, i like it allot. :)

[JBM]

Its dupli color intense blue perl truck and suv laquer . I really like it alot, but it is sensitive on plastic to humidity lol.

I am compounding/polishing tonight, i will post pics.

I have already done the compound and have found out NEVER to use turtle wax.

I have a few scratches in the clear coat that were not there after wetsanding.

I am using brand new applicator pads, and i am 99% positive i didnt pick up a piece of sand in the wetsanding process.

I have used the turtle wax polishing compound, and that isnt satisfactory for a final polish, so i am finishing up with a meguires polish, and that stuff is doing a hell of a good job. I always buy mcguires(meguires, mequires-however you spell it-i am a mason what can i do) but turtle wax is all that i could get for the compound at these chain auto stores....

At least i found out on my side panel instead of my bezel, god i would have freaked out if i had to spend anymore time on that thing....:rant:

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1295927DCP0457(WinCE).JPG

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1295937DCP0456(WinCE).JPG

The inside shots dont do it justice, it is simply awesome. Now to wetsand the bezel.

[JBM]

My bezel is done!!!

Thanks Mnpctech for making the guide of that turbine mod, its the coolest thing i have ever seen.

I did some clear today, and will wetsand that in 3 or 4 days.

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1299687DCP0458(Small).JPG

[mnpctech]

Your Turbine mod is the smoothest execution I've seen yet. Major props!

Use 3M Perfect It III rubbing compound... You'll never go back to anything else. You'll probally have to resort to buying it online...

I should look into stocking it though.

[JBM]

Wow, thanks for the compliment. It was a rewarding challenge. Some bumps along the way, like now i have to mount the fan on the outside of the case frame, but oh well, live and learn :D

I ended up finding a pro paint supplier here, and all they had was the perfect it 2, and that does a good job, but can be hard to wipe off some times.

I felt like i was using space age technology compared to the turtle wax rubbing compound lol.

And yes please do stock that stuff, as well as that Rhinowet paper :)

[mnpctech]

Get yourself a 6" power buffer w/ lots of terry cloth pads... 10" is overkill for doing bezels. Black & Decker & Craftsman have decent models under $30.... a lot easier on the arms

Oh, good call on the Rhynowet.. That I can do! :)

I'll look into the 3M this coming week ;)

[JBM]

This is before clearcoat. All my pics are inside at nite, so they dont look as good as they do...

But what can i put between where the red and blue meet? I have a silver and black paint pen, but it doesnt look good, so i buffed it off.

I was going to try to give it a little shadow effect. Like on top of the S i would do in silver, and the bottom would be black- around the edges. I dont have faith that i can make it look good either lol, unless i tape it off, then i have height problems with the paint and i cant live with that.

So i might just leave it the way it is, doing 2 colors was a little more difficult than i thought. Just had to be more carefull and go slower.....

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1304871DCP0470(Small).JPG

[mnpctech]

I refer to it as raised paint, Yea, I'd tape off those areas, lay down the silver/black, then wetsand and buff with finger size scraps over those areas, then clearcoat...... then wetsand & buff clearcoat.

The S looks SUPER!... no pun intended :D

[JBM]

So you know the shadow look i am thinking about, i think it will make a big difference. What about wet sanding though, the red is metallic, if i bump it will i be able to bring it back enough with compound?

Or i was thinking to re-tape it again with a little seperation between the black/silver and the red, only leaving a small area for the wetsand to work.

Thanks for the compliment on the S though, i am pretty happy with the it, considering it is only done with dremel and file, and my first try :D

A perfectionist is never happy though, and i can see areas that i would like to make a little better, but i know i will end up making the one long straight line with a squiggle in it wider, then i would have to do it to all of them...so forget it....

Now i am using yellow metal cast paint on the modders mesh.

The can says only to use a metalcast primer( forget the exact name, im sure you know), but will the self etching primer be ok? I didnt read the directions in the store, shrug :rolleyes:

But with the yellow mesh it should bring it home ;)

[mnpctech]

Or i was thinking to re-tape it again with a little seperation between the black/silver and the red, only leaving a small area for the wetsand to work

Good idea... did you buy the Green 3M low tack tape?... Blue will suffice too


The can says only to use a metalcast primer( forget the exact name, im sure you know), but will the self etching primer be ok? I didnt read the directions in the store, shrug

You can use their Metalcast Groundcoat, but its really meant for non metal surfaces. You won't get the glimmer or anodized effect as you would just painting the bare metal.. Skip the Groundcoat

Sand the mesh with corse sandpaper like 220 - 300 grit, then clean it off with laquer thinner, blow junk out of holes (compressed air is easier) , apply Metalcast Yellow, (tip: If nozzle leaks or spits paint, heat can up in bucket of hot tap water for about 10 mins, then use it), Wait 24 hours, then apply LIGHT coat of clear over Yellow Metalcast.. Its a very brittle paint so the clear will help make it resilient to chipping, but don't apply too much otherwise you dull the glimmer effect.

[fivecheebs]

Wow! missed this for a few days, Its looking great JBM, the turbine is amazing, the S is awesome, and i cant wait to see the yellow mesh.

[Mr.B]

Are you supposed to wetsand before the clear goes on, or do you apply your last coat of color, then clearcoat. and how should i apply the buffing compound if it just to a really small area of color, because one of those buffers seems a little big for what my application is. Nice job by the way.^_^

[JBM]

Thanks for the support guys. I tried to do a silver and black outline, didnt look right, buffed it off.

I'll try an all black outline....


Are you supposed to wetsand before the clear goes on, or do you apply your last coat of color, then clearcoat.
If its metallic, dont wetsand it before clear. I used a rubbing compound though.

For small areas use a pad or a soft cloth-t shirt or something.

I dont have an electric buffer, so i am doing this whole thing by hand....

[Mr.B]

so wait ur post was kinda fuzzy, you said that you do not wetsand before clear, but you use compound before you clear? Or were you saying that with metallics just apply the clear, then the rubbing compound to the clear?

And the scotch brite pad, and T shirt or towel, was that ur response to what to use to buff the rubbing compound cuz the buffer is too big? Or did u say that u use these procedures on non metallic paints? Thanx and sorry for the mixup:)

[JBM]

This is how i painted my metallics. I did the primers, then i did 2 coats of blue. The second coat i let sit 24 hours then i wet sanded that 1000, 1500. Then i painted a 3rd coat on and i did not wet sand that one at all. I used rubbing compound on it 24 hours later, using a terry cloth applicator.

I bought a couple 6 packs of these applicators and buffed the compound off with a clean one.

As far as i know scotch brite pads never touch any paint including the primer.

When i clear coated i did a couple light coats, then i did one that was medium light. I wet sand that last coat after 3 days with 1200, 1500, 2000, then i use rubbing compound until it is real shiney, but there is some swirl marks when you hold it at an angle to the light. Then i use Meguires #4 polishing glaze, there should be no swirl marks and not scratches left now-perfection lol.

If you are good even the edges wont have any orange peel....

But if you are like me you are petrified of going through the clear and do any edges lightly.

I did get a little blue, i mean a little, with my bezel, cause i was aiming for an orange peel free edges-corners. It came out nice, daytime pics will be alot better to show ^_^

[JBM]

I came up with a good idea for outlining the edges. I really needed a guide for the paint pen, as i didnt think tape would be good enough. I used a razor knife and simply cut the notch i needed. It went on realy easy, and looks perfect. Here is a pic of my modded paint pen ;)

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1306165DCP0474(Small).JPG

[JBM]

And here is what i came up with, i am happy :rolleyes:


http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1306618DCP0476(Small).JPG

[herbert_goon]

Sweet B)

[mnpctech]

The window looks like it was laser cut. Nice and clean work

[JBM]

Thanks, the curved lines are easier for me than the straight ones....go figure :blink:

[JBM]

Quick problem, the + and - wires on my power button and reset came off, and i lost the paper with the way they went:(

Anyone have an antec case that would care to look?

Is it safe to just try them one way, if it works or not?

[stevehp]

If you hook it up wrong at the switch nothing will blow up if it doesn't turn on flip the connector at the motherboard all will be good.

[Knipex]

Quick problem, the + and - wires on my power button and reset came off, and i lost the paper with the way they went:(

Anyone have an antec case that would care to look?

Is it safe to just try them one way, if it works or not?
It doest matter. A switch just closes a circuit dosent matter which way round you connect them.

[JBM]

Oh ok, thanks a bunch guys.

[dutchcedar]

JBM... very nice work!!! B)

[JBM]

I cant believe it, i have to repaint at least my bezel.....

I tried to get my side panels perfect so i ended up doing them like 3 times, what i didnt realize is that i was making the panels darker and darker and darker......

The edges came out light on my top piece and my bottom piece, that i might be able to live with, but my bezel....i have to repaint...How can i fix this mess lol ?

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1322535DCP0486(Small).JPG

[mnpctech]

Yea, paint can drive ya nuts.

Still looks great though.

[JBM]

Thanks, ill repaint, practice makes perfect lol.

I like it darker anyways :blink:

[JBM]

Should i leave the door latch like this?

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1330315DCP0500(Small).JPG

[mnpctech]

Nice. I'd either paint it Blue or remove and fill it.

For my Harley Davidson case, I utilized 2 - MB side panels so I wouldn't have any latch.

[biggiy6]

Paint it

[JBM]

Ok, well i never thought of using 2 mb side panels....that would have been better :D

I guess ill paint it, 67 coats should match perfectly :rant:

[JBM]

Where do i get these feet?

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/236/236113/folders/174612/1337515DCP0503(Small).JPG

[biggiy6]

Where do i get these feet?
"Borrow them from that system?" Ask YellowSnow he might know, his knew case feet looked pretty good.