Losing water fast!

[InigoMontoya27]

Hey, my loop seems to be running out of water about once a month or so, this is definitely not normal, as I used to go about 6 months and only needed topping off. Funny thing is there are no signs of water or leaks anywhere, not in the case or on the carpet. The only thing I've noticed is when I cleaned the dust from the front of my heater core radiator some of it seemed to be damp. I'm guessing there might be a slow leak in my radiator, and suggestions on how to narrow it down?

My loop:
Nexxos XP Lite cpu block
Innovatek Graph-O-Matic gpu block
Aqua Computer Aquatube res
Heater core radiator
Timmer Coolpump

BTW, this setup runs so much cooler than my XP 3200+, usually in the high 20's to low 30's. I found out the hard way that even without hardly any water in the system it will still run, but I set the alarm temps lower just in case.

[dutchcedar]

If your heater core is damp, check the hose connections to it.

Slow leaks like that are terribly hard to track down because the leaked water tends to evaporate quite quickly. That said, wherever there's dampness, is probably where your problem is, because there just isn't any reason for condensation.

[DickNervous]

dutch is right. I had a leak like that in Black Death for the longest time before I was able to track down exactly what was leaking. Thankfully the water dripped on nothing that would cause damage.

[GodsUnicorn]

Would it be possible to add some UV dye to the water and then go leak hunting with a UV light ?

[DickNervous]

maybe, maybe not. Depends how small the leak is....

[Pug]

Would it be possible to add some UV dye to the water and then go leak hunting with a UV light ?
That was going to be one of my suggestions, short of pulling the rad.
Tried this (http://www.wizdforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=70)? :huh:

[Starbuck3733T]

It's also possible that your rad or heater core has failed internally, and it's leaking out the fins rather than the connections. I had this happen on one of my cores... I just replaced the thing and called it done.

Pug's UV idea is solid as ever.

[InigoMontoya27]

I refilled the res 2 days ago and yesterday while I was playing C&C3 it started lagging really bad, then the whole system shut down. This time there was a bit of water on the carpet, my slow leak has turned into a big one! So, I'm back to stock cooling for a while, ugh. Hopefully I had the alarm temps low enough that it shut down before hurting anything...

The loop is out and I will be leak testing it soon. I'll let you know what's going on when I find out.

[The_Dragon_No1]

I refilled the res 2 days ago and yesterday while I was playing C&C3 it started lagging really bad, then the whole system shut down. This time there was a bit of water on the carpet, my slow leak has turned into a big one! So, I'm back to stock cooling for a while, ugh. Hopefully I had the alarm temps low enough that it shut down before hurting anything...

The loop is out and I will be leak testing it soon. I'll let you know what's going on when I find out.

:lol: man that sucks XD

anyways...yeah i got a damn leak here aswell... have to refil about every monthXD XD XD buuuut... i think i know where it is tho... under my rad-tower... the connections are leaking abit there i can see... im just to freaking lazy to fix it :lol: :lol: :lol: maybe someday i will bother fixing it:h34r: :lol:

[InigoMontoya27]

Well, I learned some hard lessons from this episode, mainly:

1. CPU's and GPU's can get quite hot and still function.
2. Plastic cannot get quite hot and will melt, as the top to my GPU block has taught me. It looks like the plastic literally boiled and bubbled in there.

So now I'm trying to get in contact with some different companies to see if I can get a replacement top for my Nexxos XP lite. Any suggestions?

BTW-It was a connection on my radiator that was leaking so I have to redo those, joy...

[dutchcedar]

If your heater core is damp, check the hose connections to it.

There's a reason they pay me the big bucks... :D

[InigoMontoya27]

I'm thinking I might be better off using metal connectors and welding or soldering them to the heater core rather than trying to seal plastic barbs, what do you think?

[dutchcedar]

I'm thinking I might be better off using metal connectors and welding or soldering them to the heater core rather than trying to seal plastic barbs, what do you think?I'm guessing here, but do you have plastic barbs glued to the heater core? If so, I would say, yeah, get some barbs brazed on. Any decent radiator shop can do it for you rather cheaply. Or, with so many available to the hobby these days... buy a new one. That might even be cheaper. http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=91

[Fibbles]

I'm thinking I might be better off using metal connectors and welding or soldering them to the heater core rather than trying to seal plastic barbs, what do you think?

That's probably my biggest reason to skip heater cores. With manufactured rads the o-rings on the threads of the fitting neatly screw into the rad's thread for extra security. I've never had a leak that way, but my biggest leak was from not pushing tubing on a pushfit all the way in. Luckily I caught it during leak testing.

Of course nothing is foolproof.

[jaguarking11]

the heater cores I bought had 1/2 copper pipes soldered on already. I just cut them down to size.

Also I would not suggest brazing as it will cause leaks. In my experience the best way to put new fittings on a rad is covering most of it with a wet cloth and heating up the top tanks carefully. Then solder in a fitting in there.

Some people just unsolder the old pipes or cut them realy short and tap them and screw in barbs.

I love heater cores, my double heater core is comparable in performance to my triple 120 rad I have but the heater cores need louder fans and my rad is completely silent with 6 yates on it.

another thing to use for putting barbs on is a plumbers putty that becomes rock hard and is meant to seal high pressure water pipes. It cost about 6bux a pack at HD and when you mix it by playing around with it in your hands it activates the hardener. then you have around 5mins of flex time to apply it and after that wait another 10min and it is completely set.

my .02c

[InigoMontoya27]

Thanks for the info guys. At first I went with the stock heater core due to cost restrictions, but it looks like I can get one with the barbs already attached for the same price. I'll probably go that way just to be safe.