Pump Advice

[Psykotik]

I have a project just waiting to be completed, and as I have an uber clockied mobile Barton which is running a tad toasty for my liking, I thought I may as well incorporate that into it.

Hence my primary loop, which consists of Cathars Cascade SS on the CPU, and a Maze 4 GPU on my clocked 9800 AIW (mmm XT speeds), and this is being passively cooled by a thumping girt Ford Sierra radiator, modified by moi to run half inch connections and fit in my desk support. Secondary loop will consist of Deutsch Uber H20 goodness from Mr Pug, and a C-Systems pump if the bugger ever gets here.

Thing is, I need advice on what pump/s I should use for the primary loop, as the rad is fairly hefty affair, is quite far away from my blocks ( other side of my desk in fact), and the Cascade is best suited to having a high flow rate for optimal performance.

What I was thinking is either:

A: Hydor L30 from rad outlet, Laing D4/C-Systems before Cascade to add some extra grunt after the 4ft climb from the rad

OR

B: Bloody girt nasty central heating pump, possibly a Grundfoss.

Eheims are a no go, as they are not only bloody ugly, but after my past problems with them I'd rather not go there again :mad:

I have attached a diagram below (excuse my blatantly squiffy perspective/sizing) and would love to hear some suggestions from you guys, as theres some talented people on here who know their stuff :)

Andy

http://andygoodwin.plus-media.co.uk/uploads//Finalised%20Loops.jpg

[Psykotik]

No one? :(

This is quite urgent, as I really want to get this up and running and this is the final thing keeping me from doing so....

[Nexxo]

Don't go overboard. In a closed loop you only need to overcome momentum and constrictions, not gravity. I imagine a single Hydor or Laing (or MCP600, or Davies-Craig EBP) will do.

If you need advice, like, NOW, visit a forum like ProCooling.com as well.

[Psykotik]

Cheers Nexxo.

Ive been reading ProCooling for a while, but felt like the question was a bit too n00b like to stick there. :o

Signed up tonight tho....

I'll prolly go with the Hydor then, as its cheap and cheerful :)

[Pug]

Can you share your past Eheim experience with us? You're the first person I've heard of that considers Hydor to be a better choice than Eheim that's worked with both... :huh:

If the answer's not to be had by searching the P/c forum, I'm sure people with relevant experience would chip in. :)

[Psykotik]

Anyone who used to read the old PC Lincs forum may be aware of Couzo (The Pump Killer)
I had similar problems to him, except I had it with Eheims, not Hydors.
First pump (1048 ) the casing split and I managed to permanently stain a white carpet a lovely twinge of blue, and kill a PCI graphics card in the process, second pump (1250) was not only hugenormous, but I had problems with the impeller going on me, and the bloody thing overheated.
Luckily this was the middle of winter, and the sodding great Danger Den block on the CPU managed to cool it until I could shut it down (mmm 70 degrees)

Thats why I'm a bit cautious about sticking an Eheim in my new setup, as I have a rather hot running chip now (2700Mhz mobile ) and GPU at XT speeds is kicking out some fair heat too, and once the loops are running I'm not going to be turning the PC off.

Another reason I was thinking of having two pumps in the primary loop was because I may well add a filter after the rad, as Cascades have a tendency to get clogged rather quickly if the system has shite in it (my rad is bound to have bits of crap in it)

[Pug]

Hmm. I know a lot of split casings on Eheims have been caused by people screwing taper-fit barbs and so on into the threads which are designed for parallel fittings...


Right
http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk/imgs/ehmAdapt.jpg

Wrong
http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk/images/taperFit.jpg

Just in case anyone wasn't aware...

Personally, I've heard a lot of horror stories about this, and nearly all cracked housing stories I've heard (with the exception of those subjected to the Sri Lankan Postal Service) have been as a direct result of this.
Not really Eheim's fault. :p (correct me if I'm wrong)

As for the size & heat of a 1250 - well, I'm with you on that one. Never felt the need for a pump that big anyway. :)

[Starbuck3733T]

My 1250 has been very good to me, even after I replaced the impellar cover/intake bit... because I over tigthtend the barb (which is STILL a 1/2" ID 1/4" NPT thread barb).

Its beefy.

Thou shalt not over tighten! & Lo, thou shalt use lots of PTFE tape.

[Psykotik]

PTFE tape is your friend :D

I hadn't changed any of the fittings (as I couldn't be arsed as I'm a lazy bugger), but it split anyhoo :(

Was a bit gutted as it was running quite well too....

Have decided on the dual C-Systems set now, and connecting it up to the mains via a transformer ^_^

[Pug]

No... WizD is your friend. ;)
Thou shalt use O-rings

http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk/images/pumpAdpt.jpg

[Risky]

Pug, for the record, what are the thread sizes on the Hydor and Eheim pumps. I have a L20 which I might want to move to smaller fittings (12mm OD atm) and wodered what fittings they've used.

[Pug]

Pug, for the record, what are the thread sizes on the Hydor and Eheim pumps. I have a L20 which I might want to move to smaller fittings (12mm OD atm) and wodered what fittings they've used. I wrote a big post on this once before, I don't remember if it was on Bit-Tech or Ars Technica though... :unsure:

I don't have the same references to hand now that I had when I posted but I don't think we ever actually identified it to a particular standard.
I do have brass adaptors to take most of the popular Eheims & Hydors to G1/4 now though (as well as the old faithful Aqua Computer G1/8 Ni-Brass Eheim ones) which I never used to have.

[Edit] Ah, hang on. The Hydors are different, aren't they - I'm thinking of the Eheims. Let me check & post back.

[Kameleon]

Hmm. I know a lot of split casings on Eheims have been caused by people screwing taper-fit barbs and so on into the threads which are designed for parallel fittings...

Wrong
http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk/images/taperFit.jpg

Got me worried now - my shiny new (well, second-hand) 1250 has attached to it what looks remarkably like the middle barb in that pic - but to my water-n00b eye the "right" and "wrong" barbs don't actually look different. What should I look for?

[Pug]

Got me worried now - my shiny new (well, second-hand) 1250 has attached to it what looks remarkably like the middle barb in that pic - but to my water-n00b eye the "right" and "wrong" barbs don't actually look different. What should I look for?
Oops, sorry Kameleon. This post slipped under my radar.
Welcome to WizD (but sorry your first post went unanswered :o ).

Easiest explanation off the top of my head - look at the sides of the threads.
If they do this
\ / - it's a taper
and this
l l - it's parallel
(/me hopes you have a sans-serif font on...)

Parallel threads for watercooling fittings will generally have an o-ring that the thread will screw all the way down to. Fittings for the Eheim pumps have an o-ring on the shaft that will pull into an unthreaded portion of the shaft.
Taper fittings will screw down only so far and require either PTFE tape (although most decent ones nowadays are Teflon precoated) or goop.

At the end of the day though, they're a bodge for this particular application and should be avoided while decent matched adaptors are available.
It's too easy to screw a quarter-turn too far and split your casing, thus joining the ranks of the many Eheim-killers out there. :mellow:

[Fibbles]

This might be a lil bit off topic, but how do you pronounce Eheim exactly? I was saying A-hime, but I heard another person say uh-hime, and it could simply be uh-hum for all I know...

[Starbuck3733T]

I say 'eeee-hime'. Call their 800 number and see how they say it.

[Edd]

Ee-hyme all the way baby.