Project Goliath - It's got wheels, man.

[Starbuck3733T]

Goliath: 70+ pounds of computer
Project Goliath began in my head nearly a year ago. I'd been wanting to get into watercooling, because its quiet, and because it usually yields a fairly good OC. My current Tbird 850/256MB/40GB/Voodoo3 3500 was in desperate need of upgrading. I began browsing for the perfect case, I just was not up to constructing one from scratch. The case needed to be big, but I'm not really too fond of full towers. Using an SX1000 type chassis from antec wasn't an option as i didn't want to loose the HDD bays to the radiator. One of the servers at my workplace at the time seemed like it would work perfectly. It was a rackmount/pedestal mount case w\ a front door, but it was a gateway computer so the manufacturer of the case was a big question mark. I posted on Ars about the case, and one thing led to another and eventually i ended up finding the Intel SC5000 "hudson" chassis @ centronix ltd. I dont have a picture of it virgin, but the box it came in was HUGE! My friend kyle bought the case for me after I did some programming for his website (http://www.uncelebrity.com probably not safe for work) here's a premod picture.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/sc5000.jpg

Its an extremely well made case, and also very heavy. With just the sheet metal and the frame it weighs in at a whopping 40 pounds. Mine did not come with the dual redudant PSUs or the SCA hotswap bays. It came with 9 5.25" drive carriers and 4 sets of drive rails, and a 300W delta ATX12V PSU... A few days after I got the case, I got the heatercore. Redleader, $deity bless him, has been a HUGE help on IM in terms of consultation. Our WC loops are very similar. He recommended a 1985 ford econoline van heatercore, it has 5/8" inlets and outlets, and is roughly 25cm x 15cm active area, plus another 3cm or so for the where the fittings stick out.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/hc.jpg

The 5/8" fittings it came with were cut off, as I simply couldn't get my 1/2" ID Clearflex from DangerDen over the darned things. I'll address what the hell that black stuff is on the end later.

So with the heatercore, I was able to begin figuring out mounting schemes for the heatercore. First I tried zipties, but they didn't permit the system to be disassembled easily. I let my head percolate for a few days, and finally caught redleader on IM. He informed me that you can safely run screws through the HC and break up the small wires without breaking the waterjacket. I trip to lowes took care of the problem... 3" 5/32 screws, bolts, and washers to evenly distribute the pressure on the bottom of the core. I didn't have a digicam at this stage of the project.. so imagine screws and washers where you see the zip ties :)

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/radclose.jpg

Then a problem. A rather big problem. The heatercore placement came very, very, very close to not letting the PSU wires exit correctly. I decided to see if backing the PSU out the back of the case and fabricating a custom bracket would take care of the problem, it would have... But it just looked too ghetto. Some of you may remember the "Is this ghetto? is there a better way" post. Indeed, there was a better way. Sure, the delta 300W EPS12V psu would be plenty to power the guts of this machine, but where the wires came out just wouldnt' work. So I converted the ATX12V psu into a regular ATX PSU... by cutting the end of the 24Pin plug off.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/20pinhack.jpg

Out came my Antec (Channel Well) 400W PSU from my Tbird 850 box. It had already been converted to use a panaflo L1A instead of the 80mm it came with. But it was a standard ugly PSU, so I ordered some sleeving from FrozenCPU (not the best prices, but thats where the how-to at VirtualHideout led me). 1/4" Black flexo with blue shrink loom, as well as 1/4" blue flexo. The blue flexo is a lot thinner, and I ended up only using it on the ATX12V cable. Also, as you can see below, the PSU's primary air intake (the PSU in the pic is the Delta, not the Antec) is severly choked off by the radiator. My solution to this was to add a panel of MNPCtech's modder's mesh on the side of the PSU. While I was at it, I painted the PSU mirror black, and added some interior ilumination.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/insideview.jpg

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/psugrill2.jpg

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/sleeving_and_reflection.jpg
(damn quick cam, still, that's just how shiny that thing is)

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/psu_sleeving.jpg

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/psu_light.jpg
PSU lit up with 2 white LEDs from that guy who was selling them for $0.50 piece. Im glad I got 20 white, 20 blue, and 10 UV :)

There is also a blue behind the fan, but there's no good picture of that. The PSU runs cool as a cucumber now. And for those who remember the "I lost a piece of my PSU" thread, I put in an insulator piece :-D

With a heatercore, you need a shroud. If you put the fans directly on top of the HC, there are dead spots and more noise. So.. a shroud. easier said than done. I tried to make one out of fiber glass w\ a form made out of coke-box cardboard, duct tape, and modelling clay. Not a good idea:

[Starbuck3733T]

THE DISASTER:
http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/badcore1.jpg
http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/badcore2.jpg

Awful. crap. my first time with fiberglass, what else would you expect? I decided it would still be best to make it out of fiberglass after talkign with the great Spiv for a while. So my second attempt was much, much better. still not perfect, but not the wobbly mess my first try was.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/goodshroud1.jpg

That is a pretty good picture, it doesn't show the surface variations too much. The surface was quite rough, due to not being completely saturated with fiberglass resin or something like that... at least that's what Spiv said :) I tried evening out the surface with bondo spot filler. it was working, but my bondo skills suck. After 3 weeks of trying to work the surface down to perfection for a nice mirror paint job, i thought i was pretty well off. I started spraying with high-build primer and RAGE TOOK OVER MY BODY :devious:. There were things i couldn't see that the primer was showing me, lots of tiny, tiny bubbles holes in the surface. I got on AIM (StarbuckNTX if you want to babble to me) and blew off some steam to Spiv. The conversation went something like "I'm going to throw this ****ing thing out the window!" to Spiv saying that if i mailed it to him, he'd make it good. So i did!

And then there was a great hiatus in the project. I moved from 17701 to 16823 (just a few minutes from Penn State, GO LIONS!). During this time I bought a DEAD Abit IT7 max off of The Agora, a dead one. The northbridge was in seveal pieces because the seller never told me it had an aftermarket HSF EPOXYIED to hit,and it must have been damaged in shipping. I also got a P4 2.66 that the seller ran in an IT7 at 3.0GHz at default Vcore, air cooled. Also bought some clear PVC pipe for my reservior, as well as a dangerden maze 4 and radeon 9700 block, as well as 15 feet of clearflex.

When Spiv recieved the shroud he said the construction was good, and that he'd cleaned all my bondo work off and gone down to the raw fiberglass. Spiv RULES, the man of http://www.pc-workshop.net does incredible work. :eek: :D :eek:

[Starbuck3733T]

THE SHROUD ARRIVES!

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/goodshroud2.jpg

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/goodshroud3.jpg

My GOD! When spiv sent me the first picture I almost spooged. I took the second picture when it arrived back to me in perfect condition. Look at the coppers reflection in that gorgeous black paint!

ahh, the fans.. A pair of uber-rare 120mm aluminum frame panaflo L1As which I got off of flea-bay for a mere $30 for both!

They came looking very dull, and the only thing I could do was to polish them. It took roughly 4 hours per fan and was done primarily by hand, with the exception of 220 grit on the 2nd fan being done with a random orbital sander. 220 grit, 400,600,1000,1500,rubbing compound,polishing compound, mothers aluminum polish. Beautiful. I'm glad my technique worked out so well for you mnpctech!

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/polished_panaflo2.jpg

While spiv was taking care of the shroud, I built the reservior. you've seen it before in anoterh post ;)
http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/res_and_pump.jpg

Unfortuneatly, the tops made out of 1/8" plexi didn't survive my STUPIDITY! :mad: :devious: :mad:
Sidetrack: Plastic is an organic compound. Alcohol is an organic solvent. What do you think happens when you run 97% isopropyl alcohol through a WC loop to clean out the crap your HC deposited in it because you were too stupid to flush it out before installing the loop???? Yup, they crack. OOps. The res was rebuilt with 1/4" caps and plumbers goop/ge silicon II. I wish i'd used plumbers goop the whole time, but the silicon II is working fine so far.

Also in the mean time of waiting for the reservior, and just afer receiving the IC7 from newegg, and other goodies from SVC... one of which was a Zalman passive northbridge cooler. But how to attach it? Simple, dremel 3 pins off of the 4 corners and grind the base down to the same thickness as the original NB HSF. The mod performs beatifully, keeping the northbridge warm but not hot too the touch, with minimal airflow (wash from the 120s on the radiator) There will be a seperate how-to for this at a later date (EG: Starbuck has more pix)

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/Zalman_IC7.jpg

Now the biggest pain in the butt in a watercooling system besides the loop itself has got to be attach the blocks. The DD maze4 I bought uses 4 threaded rods and a host of nylon parts, 4 springs, and 4 brass thumbscrews. In other words, one would normally have to take the mobo out to get the block off. This was not a viable option in my case simply because taking the mobo out means moving the pump, the res, disconnecting a buttload of cabling, etc.

So I cut a hole in the back of the motherboard plate so I could access the back of the socket 478. The first hole was cut for the IT7, when I thought i was going to get another one, and the second (very ugly un-cleaned up) hole will work for both. Now I can use pretty much any P4 board and be able to easily access the holes in the mobo.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/478hole1.jpg
Brad pitt's coat from fightclub... no! it's an access hole!

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/478hole2.jpg

The hole has be cleaned up greatly since I took that picture. I bought a set of files @ Grizzly and they are wonnnnderful!

[Starbuck3733T]

And finally things START coming together ;)

Its like I've been doing all these tiny mods and nothing has really come together yet. Patience is not really one of my virtues but I've been forcing myself to take my time on this project so things come out the way I'd like them to.

So first, a combination of the modded PSU and some clever wire routing that takes all the PSU wiring behind the mobo tray, including the 20pin ATX cable!

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/wiring1.jpg
My 2" bimetal holesaw and I had a date for this one ;)

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/wiring2.jpg
Dremel/hacksaw action for a hole big enough to get the ATX connector through. I'd love to sleeve the bugger but I can't justify spending $15 on a molex tool that "Might" will do these pins...

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/wiring3.jpg
Over all shot. Very clean even with eddie norton's shirt peaking through by my drives.

[Starbuck3733T]

Lets get wet!

The time had come to where I was ready to fill the system "for real" and run it for a while just to test everything out. The system was filled with distilled water and nothing else... no other prep. :( Why the frown? Because I never flushed out the heatercore becuase I figured it was brand new, why should I? Well, you'll see later on.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/install1.jpg
Radiator in place, a little close to the PSU don't you think? 1/2 ID clearflex run from pump to rad, rad to block. I have a Radeon 9700 block ready, but I don't have a radeon 9700 yet :(

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/install2.jpg
shroud in place, fingerprints and all :p Do you see the problem that almost bit me in the arse**?

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/install3.jpg
Told you it was close to the PSU. Blue thinger is the ATX12V line coming back in from the hole to the backside of the mobo tray.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/install4.jpg
I HAD to drill a hole through the shroud in 3 of the 4 corners to allow my mounting bolts through :(

[Starbuck3733T]

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/hc.jpg
Revisited
The black stuff is industrial strength velcro, the "hook" side attached to my heatercore. There is another strip, similar size, on the other end of the heatercore. I swear I took pictures of it but maybe I didn't. I'll try to remember to do so. Matching pieces of "hook" side were attached to the heatercore. The heatercore pops on w\ a slight pressure fit, and then pieces of "loop" side of the velcro are pushed on and hold everything in place! Undoing the shroud for fan or HC cleaning is as easy as removing the top clamshell (not pictured yet) and pulling the "loop" pieces off. Industrial strength velcro is just what it says it is.. VERY strong!

A nice big pic now!
http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/install5.jpg

120mm panaflos attached to the shroud w\ more flexo installed over their wires. Connected to my 1 touch bay-bus circuit (more details coming!). bay-bus circuit is sitting on top of my knight electronics minilab (8 logic switches, 8 indicators, 4 way function generator, variable DC supply, +/-12V supply, 5V supply and prototyping area). The white stuff sitting in front of the pump is pax.mate foam to deaden the pumps vibration (does any okay job, still gotta get something better). The reason it isn't attached yet is because I am going to paint the chassis once all the holes for the "mods to come" are taken care of. Leaktested for 3 days (over a weekend) and then fired up

TEMPS!
Ambient: 26.6*C
Idle: 37.0*C (bios sensor, thermal diode uncalibrated)
Load: ??? No OS loaded!!

I couldn't do load testing since I lacked a video card and ram for the board. I eventually stole the XMS2400 corsair and GF2MX from my main box (the voodoo3 was on vacation)

MORE DISASTER!
http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/block_petina2.jpg
This is why you should always run some sort of additive, even for short amounts of time (4 days). This crap built up in my block and the rest of my system (light green haze on tubing walls) after ONLY 4 days. I have come to the conclusion that it is some sort of galvanic corosion because even AirSpirt's *SOL mix (from pro/forums) didn't clean it out, so it had to be inorganic.

I disassembled teh block and scrubbed it out with alcohol, but the copper was still dark. I scrubbed it out with some ketchup and it was good as new. The acids in the ketchup ate the crap right off of it. Flushed it out throughly with alcohol and distilled water.

When I originally pulled the block off because of the corosion, I noticed that the surface hadn't mated as well as it should, approximately 40% of the thermal paste had none of the characteristic ridging on it that is indicative of a good fit. This probably had something to do with me not putting the block on correctly in terms of tightening down all the springs. None the less, I decided to lap the block. After 3 hours of block lapping on a monday night (3 monster garages down) with wet/dry 220, 400,600, 1000, 1500 and brasso, here is what we have...

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/polishedblock.jpg

Ooohh. shiny. It probably would have gone a bit quicker, but I only had 1 sheet of 220 wetdry and I think i really got all the use out of it I could have. The block was HIGHLY concave (curving inwards towards the water carrying area. I needed only a 1/4 of the thermal paste I did pre-lapping when I reapplied it. Some have reported that lapping their P4 IHS also dropped their temps by an average of 4 degrees, but I'm not feeling that crazy.

After hunting around, I finally found a place locally that carried Water Wetter. The 12 Oz bottle was only $7, so if you can get it locally, do so. 'Net prices for it are simply wallet rape!

I filled the system again: this time with distilled water and 2 capfulls of WW. The ideal concentration of WW is 5%, and my system takes a little under a half gallon to fill, so 2 cap fulls is about right. Also added a few drops of the blue UV dye that I got from SVC on sale ($4.99)***

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/uv_dye.jpg
Oooooh pretty!

[Starbuck3733T]

... Oh yeah, the lighting...
The single UV CC at the bottom of the case lights things up nicely. When I figure out the power distribution system for the fans and lighting system there will be a 2nd UV CC in the top of the case, as well as a pair of white UV CCs somewhere else.

The Lighting will be another channel of 1-touch bay bus that cycles White+UV, White only, UV only, off. I am debating doing under-case lighting, keep an eye on this thread and we'll see if I do or if I don't.

The one-touch baybus: Please dunna steal my ideas!
Preliminary schematic here (http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/fan_controller_schematic.gif).
The one-touch baybus currently cycles through 12V,10V(adjustable),5V(adjustable),0ff(or adjustable) by way of a 7400 series counter IC who's clock line is attached to a normally open SPST swtich (NO-SPST). When the switch is pressed, the clock line to the counter IC (74HCT393) goes to 5V, when its released it drops back to 0V. The 74HCT393 detects clock on the falling edge (5V to 0V transisition) and increments its outputs (in binary) by one. So the QA through QD outputs count like so (assuming start from 0)
IN BINARY:
0000
0001
0010
0011

Past that the cycle repeats itself, but I'm only using QA and QB so I don't care what happens to the other outputs.
QA and QB are then fed into A and B of the 74HCT193 IC (dual 2 bit demux) which takes the binary value on the output of the counter IC and translates it into a decimal value which shows up on Y0 through Y3.

COUNTER     DEMUX OUTPUT
0000        All off
0001        Y1 on
0010        Y2 on
0011        Y3 on


The Y1-Y3 outputs of the demux (74HCT193) currently drive the coil inputs of 3 reed relays. This is probably not how the circuit will stay as 3 reed relays are rather bulky. I am going to redesign this system so that the output of the demux controls a 555 timer's output duty cycle and use PWM to control the fans.

The NOSPST switch that currently acts as an input will be replaced by a touch sensor from Qprox. No visiible switches, jsut a glowing indicator ;) :D

You may have noticed that the 393 and 193 chips have a 2nd channel that is not used yet? The 2nd channel of the 393 will be used to drive MOSFETS to control the cold cathodes. since it counts in binary, cycleing through Off (00b) White CC (01b), UV CC (10b), and both (11b) will be easy. The 2nd channel of the 193 doesn't serve any purpose. yet.

:dremel: Coming soon to a mod near you... :dremel: (Aka the TODO list)
Integrate modders mesh into intake hole for the radiator
1 Touch fan-bus
1 touch light-bus
power distribution system for mods
lighting mods
custom stainless steel feet?
window designs? (Spiv... you know what I mean ;))
Convert pump plug
Custom front bezel involing
*stealthed slotload
*stealthed CDRW
*see-through to 10K RPM HDDs
*lighting mods for activity lights
*system health
*VFD

Phew! A lot done but a lot to go! That's it for now! More updates tonite when I get home.
:D :D

[Starbuck3733T]

System specs & Overclocking, or the lack thereof... :(

Now that those 2 rather huge posts have us caught up to the current state of affair with Goliath, I'll get to overclocking/system specs.

Specs:
Abit IC7
P4 2.66GHz
256MB XMS2400 borrowed from my Tbird 850 (to be replaced w\ 2x256 kingston hyperX PC3500)
PNY GF2MX (to be replaced by Sapphire radeon 9700 pro if I can find one w\ a black PCB)
Netgear 10/100 card (blue PCB,Realtek based)
Adaptec 29160 U160 card
Quantum atlas 10K III 18.2GB U160 x 2
Pioneer DVD-303S slotload SCSI dvdrom
HP 8x4x32 SCSI cdrw
92mm Panaflo L1BX x 2(coming soon)
---WC---
Dangerden maze4 P4 block
Dangerden radeon 9700 block
1/2" ID tygon tubing
brass/poly fittings
Eheim 1250
1985 ford econoline van HC
120mm polished Panaflo aluminum frame L1As x 2

And the OC. CPU temps (from bios, uncalibrated thermal diode)
Ambient 74-78*F (26.6*C-??)
Idle: 36-37.5*C
Load: 40.5*C @ 2.66GHz
Load: 42.5*C @ 3.00GHz/1.575 Vcore

And that's all I got for an OC. A meazly 340MHz OC. waHHHHHHH!!!
I tried upping vcore to 1.650 tops, but couldn't stabilize at 3.1GHz even with the ram (which is rated up to 150MHz) running at CAS3 (which it is stable up to 187MHz, 4:5 divider, 150MHz CPU FSB)

BWAHHHHHHHH!!!! I want more of an OC!

Anyway... that's the up to the current, and at 3.00 I can run prime95 for as long as I want with the radiator fans at a voltage where they are damn near silent!

... back to the moddin...
The top metal of my case comes off just like a normal side panel, 1 screw holds it on the back and several tabs engage on either side. The radiator is top mounted, but there is about a 1/4" space between the top of the rad and the top clamshell b/c of the chassis structure. So what to do? a regular hole would be ugly because of the gap...

Que the modders mesh of course!

Against my better ideas I ended up cutting a piece to fit the hole approximately instead of folding the edges out to sit under the sheetmetal ala Infidel's mesh mod. I tried for about 3 hours to do it but I just dont have the right tools to do so.

I cut the mesh to approximate size, put tape down on the top of the sheet metal, and filled the back with JB Weld, and placed 2 gallons worth of distilled water (handy weights!) on top at let it cure. Here's what it looks like with just the 2 ends in place:

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/topmesh1.jpg
http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/topmesh2.jpg
http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/starbuck3733t/topmesh3.jpg

I've got to jbweld the other sides in place and then file out the holes so they're pretty on the edges, followed by some bondo action (using the real stuff this time not the crap spot filler) to get it all nice and even in preperation for automotive grade paint :D

Comments please!

[Starbuck3733T]

All righty, update on integrating the top mesh (albeit a boring one)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/topmesh4.jpg
I needed some way to have a lot of weight on the mesh to hold the edges in flat against the book under them. spray cans + old text books + distilled water fits the bill.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/topmesh5.jpg
JB Weld is a lot like peanut butter, easy to work with, sticky, but dries like a damned rock!

The technique this time worked better than when I did the end panels. I bought myself a righteous spreader (only $0.89) and layed down a strip of tape behind the mesh (top of the lid) and another strip of tape about 1cm from the edge of teh mesh, so that stray JBWeld goop wouldn't get into the mesh like it did on the ends. Once I spread the jbweld nicely into the crack along the edge, the tape on the inside (side in the pic) was removed. That left a pretty straight edge! I wish I had thought of it when I did the ends. After the protective tape strip was removed, another strip was added directly over the jbwelded area so that things flatten out nicely. The tape comes off the JBweld really easily.

Next victim please :D
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/nicmod1.jpg
Name: AOpen AON-325D PCI 10/100 Realtek based nic

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/nicmod2.jpg
The parts I'm interested in. Green LEDs! ICK!

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/nicmod3.jpg
Some technical stuff for my fellow soldermonkeys, or those who wish to mod a $8 blue PCB'd NIC ;)

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/nicmod4.jpg
Some desoldering later (about 5 minutes)

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/nicmod5.jpg
Scuff up a 2600mcd blue LED so that it doesn't project obnoxiously into the rest of the case, but still acts as a NON GREEN indicator :D

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/nicmod6.jpg
You can barely make out the header I added for NIC ACT led, but you can see the big white blur that is the LED in the previous picture. Flash + Macro = bad :nono: Too bad my batteries died shortly after this...

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/nicmod7.jpg
Yup, the link light still works ;)

That's all for now, keep the comments coming!:clap:

[Starbuck3733T]

All righty, update time.

I just finished filing out all the little holes that got partially or fully filled with jbweld that shouldn't have. Owww.. my arm hurts. This is 2 law-and-orders to do. I have no perception of time, but I do know how much TV I watched :D

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/topmesh6.jpg

Top view, the areas with marker on them are for stage II of the topmesh integration which involves blending the edges properly with bondo. Also, ignore all the scratches, stains, stray jbweld on the rest of the case as it hasn't met with MR. Orbital sander yet.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/topmesh7.jpg
Eye candy. Should look sweet when its back lit by 3 superbright white LEDs per end (in diffuser blocks) any boobos (partially filled holes around the edges) will be taken care of when the bondo is used to smooth the edges.

Feedback time people! :dremel:
Anyone have a better idea of how to get this whole thing flat short of having to re-file out all the holes on the edges after the bondo job?

[Starbuck3733T]

An idea, cheap molex pin extractor: :idea:
I'll take a pair of cheapo flat-tip tweezers (~1.5cm of metal sits flush when they are squeezed) and grind them down small enough to fit inside the connector... That should get the pins out.

SURPRISE! TIZ UPDATE TIME!
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/bondo1.jpg
Applied the bondo, then ripped up the tape so it wouldn't go into the mesh too far. I only did one side as this was a test of me working with real bondo... My bondo cherry is now popped :lol:

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/bondo2.jpg
After I sanded everything down and did a bit of edge feathering.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/bondo3.jpg
It came out pretty smooth! woot!

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/primed1.jpg quicky thru on some high build primer to see how things were doing... it'll be sanded off again before I do the other sides. ME = Impatient.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/primed3.jpg
Looking good.. :hip:

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/primed2.jpg
But the devil is in the details: didn't come out too bad, but my feathering left a little to be desired (red arrows pointing to the transition). Far from perfect, but not bad.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/bondo4.jpg
Almost perfect! The side is nice and flat, and after the 2nd coat of high-build primer any of the defects in the surface should vanish. Ignore the bondo specs in the bottom of the picture, they're going to be ground off once I sand down one of my minor repairs... the bondo is so thin and not very wide sitting on top of the mesh, so in the process of filing out the holes (with the file chucked in my drill this time) I cracked/flaked it off in a few places.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/bondo5.jpg
Wide shot, I paint with a broad brush when it comes to bondo. The stuff you see unsanded are repairs of the above mentioned mishaps.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/my_shop.jpg
I haven't been in the shop much to do the the mesh-backlight mod that I wanted to do because the single 40W lightbulb (upper right hand corner of the pic) had its fixture malfunction. Normally, being the EE that I am I'd replace the fixture (bad contacts).. But since I am under a lease in an apartment building I didn't do it. I could have had the landlord fix it (who is an old-skool EE), but I've got wires running places where they shouldn't ;) (eg: satellite down from the top floor, ethernet in the walls). Lease says don't do some of that stuff, so even though its just the basement and the actual places where the stuff was done haven't changed in appearence, I didn't want to catch hell from him. So I hit walmart tonite and picked up 2x shop light fixtures for ~$7 each, and 4x 48" 40W cool white bulbs. They were a cinch to put up, came with chains and screw-eyes, and were already corded w\ a 3 prong plug. If you need more light in your shop you can get it VERY easily with these. The bill, for both, was about $23. :clap:

Sorry the bondo is taking so long, but perfection isn't immediate!

Feed back please! :thumb:

[Starbuck3733T]

Okay boys and goyum, time for a nice eye-candy update! The pieces to do the radiator intake hole (mesh integration) backlight are done. I haven't attached a connector for the power yet as im not sure how my touch-bus is going to accept its connections quite yet.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/backlight1.jpg
The plexi + 4 white LEDs, staggered placement. Mmmm, sleeving!

And now the eyecandy:
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/backlight2.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/backlight3.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/backlight4.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/backlight5.jpg

I think it looks ubersweet. If the pix look a bit blue, i think its just my camera shifting the hue a bit. They are a very pure white with just a tiny hint of blue to them. Too bad I smoked 2 of them by accidentally having them get +12V (wrong setting in the fan-touchbus circuit, didn't pulse it down to the variable voltage..oops.)

What do you all think?

[Starbuck3733T]

It's that time again: Update!

I guess you could call this PSU mod part II, or "Accidental Rice". I ordered blue heatshrink from frozenCPU (pricey, but good service), as well as some black female molexes to replace the icky white ones that my PSU came with.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/loom1.jpg

Well, they sent blue heatshrink and BLUE molexes. Blue ULTRAVIOLET REACTIVE none the less... At first i was kinda peaved, but i decided to give them a go under the UV. Well, they didn't react that much. and the blue color is pleasant with my heatshrink.

(I can hear you, "Shut the fsck() up, show me some pix!") Okay, okay..

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/loom2.jpg
Zee connectors + new female molex pins (you'll see why shortly)

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/loom3.jpg
This is why I got new pins. I hacked off a length of cable from the PSU later on in this post and added 2 extra molexes to the chain I was putting the connectors on. Screw Y adapters, just add more plugs!

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/loom4.jpg
Where there were just 2 before, there are now 4! Lookin good!

After:
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/loom5.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

Part I.5: :miffed:<font color="red">I HATE THIS PART!</font>:miffed:
Before any chassis metal work can be done, the machine must be stripped of all the components. it's the most disheartening thing in the world to see my project naked, nothing in place, and a case thats starting to look a tad swiss cheesed :( it's downright depressing!

Part II! "PSU Necrophilia & Sadism"
Here lies the body of a dead PSU. We're going to stick things where don't belong (Necrophilia) and cut parts out (Sadism).

Victim:
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plughack1.jpg

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plughack2.jpg
Oh the horror! My IDC plug has been yanked? WHYYY!!!

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plughack3.jpg
Well, so I can use it plug the pump in... that's why. Almost forgot to take pictures of it, so you have a 'part way modded' one ;)

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plughack4.jpg
Plate (made out of the steel from cutting the hole in the top clamshell of the case for the mesh mod) w\ IDC connector. It wont be beige forever, have faith.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plughack5.jpg
Plate out of the hole, blue holes for mounting screws. I bought a 4-40 tap, but its the wrong one!! You metric guys have all the good stuff when it comes to threading. I can barely think in inches anymore.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plughack6.jpg
Disaster strikes!... well, maybe just bad luck. The bit I was using to drill the holes b4 I tapped them broke. So the plate isn't mountable, yet. No problem, I've been wanting carbide bits for a while :D

[Starbuck3733T]

Part III: General metal modding.

Noise is bad, rubber grommets are good. Clutter is bad, cable organization is good.
so 2 modifications to allow this.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/generalmetal1.jpg
That's the back of my mobo plate. I cut a slit in the front part of the lip so that the molexes can pass through to the drives in the front of the case. I can now get the side of the case back on. Only problem is that I didn't realize how much structural integrity that provided for the tray... oops! it's not a big deal, just more flexing that I expected. Probably should have cut another square hole in the tray rather than notching the lip.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/generalmetal2.jpg
Holes are now plenty big for the rear exhausts to be grommet mounted.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/generalmetal3.jpg
Where's wallace though?

Part III.5: Sticker removal.

Since i'm trying to prep the chassis for paint... or powdercoat (I haven't decided), obviously any foreign matter, stickers, miscellaneous crap needs to come off of the case. So bye-bye went the FCC stickers. I think the last case I had that had FCC stickers on it was my 486-66DX2 from middle school.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/stickers1.jpg

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/stickers2.jpg

That's all. Let me refresh the todo list:
Integrate modders mesh into intake hole for the radiator (~90% complete, needs to be primed)
1 Touch fan-bus
1 touch light-bus
power distribution system for mode
lighting mods (Radiator lighting done)
custom stainless steel feet?
window designs? (Spiv... you know what I mean ) (slowly solidifying, need to get my tripod out, virtual "modding" by way of photoshop)
Convert pump plug (~95%)
Custom front bezel involing
*stealthed slotload
*stealthed CDRW
*see-through to 10K RPM HDDs
*lighting mods for activity lights
*system health
*VFD

All right, your turn, tiz feedback time!

[Starbuck3733T]

Hello all! Sorry it's been so long between updates!

Rest assured, the mesh grill is still being worked on. Perfection is required, perfection takes time.
I've gone backward a few steps, and forward again, and backward and so forth trying to get things perfect before the top clamshell, bottom clamshell, and non-mobo side go off to the painter. The mobo side still has to have the design (when finalized) waterjetted into it, and the custom cut plexi still needs to be done too. Too bad no finalists from Ars for that mod contest eh? we coulda really used that versalaser!

Part I: Presents!

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/presents1.jpg
Mmmm. A box from SVC, goodies await!

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/presents2.jpg
10 feet of flexo "carbon", they were out of black, and this stuff is neat. its gray and black woven together.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/presents3.jpg
2 device u160 cable. Uhmm SVC DONT YOU REALIZE THERES SUPPOSED TO BE A 3RD CONNECTOR FOR THE TERMINATOR??? GRR :miffed: Well, this was for my opticals anyway, which terminate internally. I still need a 2nd 68 pin (cable side) to 50 pin (drive side) adapter. Someone sent me one from the Agora for free! I thanked them profusely, but I have forgotten their name. :( /tangent.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/presents4.jpg
10 3-to-4 pin adapters. since they were $0.49 each, I got them more for the connectors than anything else. 3 x 92mm "Yate Loon" cheap fans... this is when I thought the 92s would still fit in the rear of the case. oops, but for $3/each, whatever. the 3rd is for the 80>92mm adapter that mnpctech sent me so long ago, but I guess now one of them will be going in my current box's PSU as well. Gotta shut them both up!!

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/presents5.jpg
Mmmm DRILL BITS! Carbide! Easy Start! Anti-spin spindle! I just used them tonite and they are like butter even through goliath's 1.3mm sheet steel.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/presents6.jpg
6-32 Tap and #36 drill bit. For making/threading holes for use w\ standard case screws.

[Starbuck3733T]

Part II: Removal of rear fan grill

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/reargrill1.jpg
Almost forgot to take a picture ;)

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/reargrill2.jpg
OUT FOUL DEMONS! The gray gook you see on the far side of the hole is what I like to call Starbuck's anti-screwup cream. Aka "Devcon Metal Patch". When my dremel walks a bit to far, I fix it with this stuff. Works very well.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/reargrill3.jpg
Aluminum L1A sitting on the OUTSIDE (it will be inside), on top of a piece of coated sheet steel I cut to fit the hole.

I messed up and when I was drilling out the rivents seen 1 and 2 pics above, I didn't clamp what they were holding together. So when my drill popped the rivet out, the bit slid down, smacked the other piece of metal the rivet was holding together and bent the crap out of it. Luckily, it bends right back into place, but needs a screw to hold it properly. The plate I fabricated does this as well as providing a home for the 120mm L1A to mount to. Problem solved.

Comments? Recommendations?

PS: I'm thinking about going to a very, very dark gray matte on the chassis.

[Starbuck3733T]

Thanks for the props guys! I'm glad im living up to your and my own expectations.

rear exhaust cutting finished. chassis is getting kinda week at this point so i am going to ditch using screws to attach it and rivet it in directly when the frame comes back from the powder coating process. this should also take care of a metal thickness problem i'm having since the part of the plate nearest to the IO ports is sitting on an additional layer of metal w\ respect to the rest of the back of the case. enough talking...

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/rearfan1s.jpg

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/rearfan2s.jpg

I'm looking forward to receiving a third aluminum L1A from mnpctech favors are a good thing, and he's an awesome guy to do that for me.

[Starbuck3733T]

I'll get to the point this update. Here's the beef!

Rear plate for pump power plug jbwelded into place. This thing needs a cleaning, badly. But then again, I may have to have it sandblasted, so I'm not worried about residual jbweld and general 'yuck' on it.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/case1.03.jpg

Somebody ripped goliath's butt off! I think its gonna come apart completely so it can be cleaned throughly before making a visit to the powder coater who I still haven't called. WHY AM I PROCRASTINATING SO BAD!!!???
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/case2.03.jpg

PAINting.. Emphasis on PAIN

Flattering shot...
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/paint1.jpg

Not flattering shot...
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/paint2.jpg
...back to the stopper on the edges I guess. God this is tedious and obnoxious to do, I dunno how infidel and mnpctech stand it. I'm SERIOUSLY contemplating shipping it off to mnpctech since I know it'll come back perfect. I did that with the shroud and spiv, and that's exactly what happened. And I dont feel like any less of a modder for doing it, because its still my creation, ya know? just a bit guilty.

:rolleyes: I guess im in a bit of a tizzy.

[Starbuck3733T]

Zee updates!

Some of these are more for my/the powdercoaters reference (plugging holes) than actual interesting shots, but here's what goliath starts to look like when you really rip it apart.

Showing the orientation of the drive cage pieces, has a P/N (Left being the near piece looking into the mobo side) and an arrow indicating "Down" Direction.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/deassembly1.jpg

Looking down onto the top of the case, noting which holes to plug so that the case can be riveted back together when the time comes.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/deassembly2.jpg

Noting hole plug locations in the motherboard tray.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/deassembly3.jpg

Nothing hole/rivet locations in the front panel/drive cage access.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/deassembly4.jpg

Since I can now fill/smooth the rear of the case with jbweld (aka powdercoatable bondo), I fabricated a new plate that goes all the way to the right edge. The old one didnt. No fan hole created yet as I still have to determine the fan mounting scheme, and go to an octagonal hole to show off as much of the aluminum L1A's frame as possible. I've decided against a finger guard.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/newplate1.jpg

Speaking of fingers... (No the fan didn't do this to me)... I think the blood sacrifice was my payment for such good luck w\ the powdercoater and the case in general as of late. This is actually the first time I've sliced myself working on goliath.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ouch.jpg

That's all... once the back panel is filled/smooth, the whole shabang goes off to the powdercoaters for a nice coat of black. The only things that are getting a gloss black are going to be the mobo I/O port & card area, and the bracket that holds the PSU. everything else is getting a flat black.

[Starbuck3733T]

Okay, update.

A little JB-as-body-filler goodness for you this time. I'm going to have to sand and do a 2nd coat, obviously. But since jbweld takes powdercoat, I'm using it as I would bondo to make the backside of Goliath a bit prettier.

Before (all sanded and cleaned off)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/jb-before.jpg

After (gunk in place)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/jb-after.jpg

The nice thing about jbweld is that you dont have to be too careful about creating voids or putting it on too thick. Its strong as hell one way or another, and it has a tendancy to 'slump'. The slumping lets trapped bubbles escape, something that does not happen with bondo.

[Starbuck3733T]

Well, the update will suck b/c jbweld is A.) so damn hard and B.) takes forever to dry.

This is the second coat, sanded.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/sanded1.jpg

And now with the third coat on. I still have to sand this one.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/thirdcoat.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

Patience. Something I lack. I'm going to make this quick because I'd like to get back to work, you'll see why at the end of the update.

First up, back plate with 120mm plate installed with jbweld.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/rear1.jpg

And with the first of (probably many) coat(s) of jb-weld. I should buy their stock.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/rear2.jpg

My res, updated. I got some nylon #4-40 threaded screws to replace the galvanized ones currently holding it together. I think that's half the problem I'm having with crap building up in the system, that the screws are actually touching the water and i'm getting galvanic corrosion. The last time I had it up and running I had 'glitter' running through my tubes. And that was with distlled + WW. Also, the WW left some white gunk on the tubing, but not the res. Also replacing the brass barbs with nylon ones.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/res1.jpg

Some powdered glitter that settled on the bottom of the res
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/res2.jpg

Disaster strikes. I guess I was trying to put the fitting in a bit too tightly. I now have to pull out the hack saw and cut the end off, redrill, and reinstall the end cap. That sucks.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/res3.jpg

I was going to demo the anti-HDD vibration spacers I got, but this has set me back a bit for the day. I guess I'll just keep working, this isn't a huge setback, just really annoying.

[Starbuck3733T]

So I did have to hack the end off, I cut off about 4cm of pipe, so I'm 4cm shorter in the res department. I reattached the bottom plate, and am now working on getting the screw holes to stop leaking :(. The nylon screws don't provide as much mechanical force as the other ones. In the mean time, I figured out a way to make filling the res and sealing it much easier. The gift comes in the form of a 2 liter cocacola bottle ;)

You'll see.

New top for the res to accomodate the 2 liter bottle's neck and cap.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/res4.jpg

Cap and neck in place, and epoxied (5 minute variety, also water tight)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/res5.jpg

Reservior Redux: the new shorter version w\ the top just sitting in place. I still have to cut the top to size and goop it on.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/res6.jpg

heatercore ready to be painted. The rustoleum protetive enamal doesn't need primer, just a clean surface. But its too cold out (50* minimum for the rust oleum) to paint. If i had done this earlier in the day it would have been a better temperature for painting.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/rad1.jpg


I'm going to clean the shop a bit, and play with my HDD mounts.

[Starbuck3733T]

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/res7.jpg

Finished reservior redux. Much easier to fill and drain now as i can use just a funnel and not have to wait for the bubbles to make their way up my fill tube the way i did when i had a barb on the top of the res. I got the blue top from something else (i forget) and i've got another (black) top so i have one to put my temperature probe through.

[Starbuck3733T]

Final coat of jbweld on the back plate.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plate1.jpg

Closeup of the edge of the hole, see diagram legend below image.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plate2.jpg
The RED arrow is pointing to where the profile of the material meets the top (light gray is the edge of the hole, darker is the top bit). The GREEN is pointing to the JBweld that's been built up. The BLUE is pointing to the metal that's supporting the jbweld (the original plate.)

I hope to sand this down for the last time tommorow night. The next step, obviously, is taking a day off of work to make it to the powdercoater. I'm pretty confident they can powdercoat over the gray 'stuff' that's on the rest of the frame. And they can't, it'll probably come off in the 400*F oven. So keep your fingers crossed... maybe you'll get a few interesting surprises in the 2 weeks that this is going to be at the powdercoater.

[Starbuck3733T]

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/blackrad.jpg
1 black radiator: complete. Used rustoleum protective enamel: good stuff! I didn't have to prime the radiator to use it, it adhered nicely.

Looks like I'll be going to the powdercoater on nov 6 or 7. :D

[Starbuck3733T]

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/prettyfan.jpg

third 120mm Alu frame L1A all polished up.

[Starbuck3733T]

Thanks Broots!

I know I've been slow as of late, call me unmotivated or whatever. Things have been getting better, so I've been more in the mood (or is it mod?! :D) to work on things.

I polished my dangerden radeon block tonite. Now only if I had a radeon to put it on :p

First up: raw block straight out of the baggie from dangerden, kinda nasty.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/block1.jpg

After 220 wet-dry, took out the dents that the factoring lapping left.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/block2.jpg

After 400 wet-dry, gettin there kinda sorta...
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/block3.jpg

After 1000+1500 (eh I was out of 800) pretty smooth, but not pretty yet.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/block4.jpg

After 8 or 9 passes with Brasso. Mirror, anyone? Excuse the crap on the plexi, I didn't notice it till i offloaded the pics... probably enamored by the shiny bits :D
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/block5.jpg

That's all. Let me refresh the todo list:
Integrate modders mesh into intake hole for the radiator (~90% complete, needs to be primed)
1 Touch fan-bus (schematics started)
1 touch light-bus (ditto)
power distribution system for mods (scrapped, or falls under above.. dunno)
lighting mods (Radiator lighting done)
custom stainless steel feet? (going to Erie this weekend, might happen)
window designs? (Gigantic DESIGN BLOCK HELP!!!)
Convert pump plug (Done)
Smooth back plate (done)
Polish Blocks (done)
Polish 3rd L1A (done)
Relay system for PSU (machine wont turn on unless pump is active)
Custom front bezel involing
*stealthed slotload
*stealthed CDRW
*see-through to 10K RPM HDDs
*lighting mods for activity lights
*system health
*VFD

A pretty good dent. things should pick up when I actually have a chassis to work with ;)

[Starbuck3733T]

Okay dokay, I just got back from dropping the frame at the powder coater. The synopsis is that they're concerned about coating the jbweld on the rear plate, but if they do a negative charge spray on it, it should be fine. Everything else is getting positive charge spray.

I've picked out two colors, one wrinkle coat black (RAL 9005) and one high gloss black (also RAL 9005). RAL is the color standard that the powdercoating industry uses. He also informed me that they have a (VERY EXPENSIVE) glow in the dark powder coat! Pretty cool stuff!

I really wish I had taken my camera with me, it was a very neat operation. At Nittany Powdercoating, Ed Lundy, the man I spoke to was very, very nice and also highly informed of how things worked. He had no problem explaining the details of powdercoating to me.

We went out and did a parts count of all the bits for the project, 12 to get gloss black, 9 to get texture coat. I said that he'd need to plug any threaded hole, with the exception of the large threaded holes in the 4 long rails that run front to back, no problem. Apparently, the plug them with various different sized tapered silicon plugs. The plugs are good to 600 degrees before they'll start to burn.

The process for my parts will be a 400*F burn off oven, and then a solvent tank. Some of the parts will need to have where I marked them in permenant marker sanded off, but no biggie there.

Time table to recieving chassis back: 1 to 2 WEEKS

Yippee!

Here are some pics.

For my reference, how the drive cage area attaches to the rails.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/structure.jpg

These are all the parts that get high gloss black: 3 drive cages, 3 sets of HDD rails, Expansion card/mobo plate, PSU plate
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/disass1.jpg

These are the parts that get the crinkle coat black: MOBO plate, rear plate, front plate, drive cage (L+R)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/disass2.jpg

The whole shabang just before it went in the trunk of my car.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/disass3.jpg

Believe it or not, the Powder Coating place (Nittany Powdercoating) is like 5 minutes from my house. Sorta hard to find (I messed up the first time) but really nice and close. If this comes out like the samples/works in progress i saw (which were really great) I'd definitly recommend him to any of my fellow modders.

[Starbuck3733T]

Well, I'd have to say that the results were mixed. Not because of the work done by the powdercoater, but because of not giving proper instructions.

The drive cages, PSU bracket, drive railes, and mobo back plate got gloss black. Everything else got textured flat black.

1.) JBWeld will survive the bake oven, not the burn off oven (800*F, as opposed to 400*F, JBweld only good to 600*F)
2.) They did not burn off my parts
3.) They DID hot acid tank them. removes grease BUT NOT DEBRIS.
4.) The JBweld outgassed (hence it looking like ass in the pictures below) during the powder bake. All the other parts came out VERY nicely.
5.) The dimensions were altered a bit, so a rubber mallet is a good thing to have during reassembly.

Onto the pictures! other than the back plate, which is probably going to get some custom plexi work (decorative, functional) to hide the ugly bits.

They wrapped all my parts up individually in industrial cling wrap when they were done coating them.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath01.jpg

Gloss black RAL9005 epoxy. Note the reflection of my workbench in the front of the drive caddy. SWEET.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath02.jpg

Back plate. All the unevenness was caused by the outgassing of un-reacted compounds in the jbweld during the baking process :waah: :eeek: :waah:
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath03.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

But here's the bright side, PURE SEX BLACK and LOTS of it!
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath04.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath05.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath06.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath07.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath08.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath09.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

Installed my drives and my cages. This required some bending the two pieces that make up the drive cage recievers. The powdercoat altered the dimensions enough for the already VERY tight cages to become impossible to insert w\o modification. Believe me, I had to use combination of rubber gripped plyers and a small hammer to get my slot load DVD back out :(. No problem though, as its rated for lots of non-operating shock :duh: :p
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath10.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath11.jpg

Nice reflection of my camera above the dvdrom. The drive rails and cages all got gloss black while the rest of the case got matte black. The gloss shows finger prints, but the flat textured doesn't show them nearly as easily.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath12.jpg

PSU plate. Lovely contrast between flat black and gloss.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath13.jpg

Check out the reflection in the bottom of the PSU (Painted a few months ago, obviously). The mesh and all the black, all the reflections, its all just melting into one. Look into the black and see nothing /wierdvoice.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath14.jpg

Installed my drives. Even with the rubber dampers installed in the case they are still a bit noisy, so somewhere down the line I'd like to make a hard drive waterblock, as well as an enclosure w\ lots of sound insulation to house them.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath15.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/goliath16.jpg

Comments??? Feedback please :D

[Starbuck3733T]

Since I'm waiting (I hate this fsck()ing waiting game) for my 3.06B P4 chip to arrive, I haven't done a full restuff of the chassis. I did do some wire management (aka fun with zipties) and reinstall the motherboard, though.

Wires ziptied into the back of the mobo tray, and useless lines hidden. I didn't clip it because as long as I've had this PSU... well, its sentimental. Why cripple a perfectly good (and in fact, my first respectable) PSU for future use when I can just hide the cable.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/install1.jpg

120mm Polished Aluminum L1A installed w\ E-A-R mounts (obtained from mcmaster-carr). These were a piece of cake to install once I sprayed them down with some of my high-viscosity silicon. Its the same stuff I use in my paintball gun, doesn't wear away like oil.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/install2.jpg

Believe it or not, my NIC is under the SCSI card. Nice and small :)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/install3.jpg

As you can see, the SCSI card is green :(. The nic is a light shade of blue, but you don't see it. I'm not sure if there are enough heat-producing components on the SCSI card (Adaptec 29160) to screw things up if I were to apply some faux carbon-fiber vinyl to the back of it. Or maybe I'll make a plexi shield that sits on top of all the expansion cards. Who knows... more ideas to percolate.

I hope you enjoyed this (tiny) update :D

[Starbuck3733T]

Well, it seems that my last update (albeit a textual one) was eaten due to a database outage on bit-tech. So, instead of retyping the status then, I'll give you the update on status as it stands now.

I am currently overclocked to 3.611GHz (23x157) at 1.625 Vcore. even If I bump it up to a 1.675Vcore I cannot go any higher, and i've changed the CPU:DRAM ratio down to 5:4 so my memory is only going at 126MHz, so I know it is not the culprit as its PC2400. (Well, it is until I get my 2x 256MB mushkin black hi pref II 2-2-2 timings!)

Temps are WONDERFUL. Speed fan keeps the radiator fans and exhaust fan nice and quiet until things get warm. It works so well I think I may do away with the fan control on the touch bus, save for having it flip between AUTO (Speedfan) and FULL (12V). This would make 2 channels: 1 for the exhaust, 1 for the rad fans. The touch bus would still control the lighting in the manner outlined earlier in this thread.

Oh yeah, temps, temps... almost got derailed there. With water up to temp (pump running 24 hours plus, full load torture)
33*C idle
42*C load (prime 95 torture test, max power setting)
17*C ambient (measured by my indoor, outdoor themometer)
22*C water (full load)
18*C water (idle)

I've been fiddling around with cathode placement lately, and it's been very frustrating! I can't quite hide the cathodes and get the illumination i've been wanting. So what I'm doing now is giving the photoshop file to my graphic artist friend for some 'virtual modding'! I wanted to avoid attaching the cathodes to the side panel, but it now seems to be un-avoidable. I just can't hide them in the frame and get good illumination.

I also tried to install both my opticals last night, but my 29160 keeps bitching about improper termination. I have the last drive terminated, the first drive unterminated. However, as soon as I pulled out a spare u160 terminator and put it on the end of the chain and w\ only 1 optical (2 position cable), all was well. I'm blaming it on cheap cables for now. I've ordered a 3 position cable from SVC, just in case i need the third position for the terminator.

Routing the u160 cables is fun too, as I need as much length as possible to stay neet by running down along the bottom inside of the case, under the foam that the pump sits on.

This same foam is also occupying the spot I was going to use for my UV cathode... :( I SWEAR I'll post pictures tonite of my wiring woes.

I'm too darn anal retentive about appearence.

[Starbuck3733T]

OMG! An update!

Thanks to all of you who commented, both those whose replies still stand and those whose replies were lost during the bit-tech outage.

Anyway, I haven't put up an update since I restuffed the case with all the components, and my new 3.06HT chip. So here it is (from my premium uploadit account, even!)

Fully stuffed, a bit messy if you ask me :( What do you all think?
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/case1.jpg

Back end of the case, note the SCSI cables at the bottom, particularly the rightmost one. It wasn't long enough and generally isn't playing nice. Rather miffed about that.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/case2.jpg

The front of things. More messy, even though things are all sleeved up. My power wire managment leaves something to be desired :miffed: The white line to the rightof the radiator is the line up to white CCFL #1. I haven't installed the second one yet.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/case3.jpg

This, on the other hand, looks pretty good. My tubing has gone cloudy again, though :doh:. My 120 rear exhaust plugs into the northbridge's connector because I can control that connector (and the CPUFAN connector) with SpeedFan!! Speedfan Rocks! Why are the wires so long? In case I want to stretch them up to the front of the case eventually.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/case4.jpg

Radiator fans, you can just see to the left where the sleeved wires come out and go back up to the CPUFAN connector on the board.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/case5.jpg

With the pump out of the way, you can see some of the clutter that the SCSI cables cause, as well as the power connectors being unruly. I need to do something about that.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/case6.jpg

And the savior, hopefully, of the tubing. Hyperlube supercoolant, which wont leave a mess like waterwetter, and still provides corosion resistance (like antifreeze).
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/hyperlube.jpg

The astute among you may have noted that the system is relatively empty in the hyperlube picture... that's for a good reason. My bloody pump intake fitting, even with plenty of PTFE (teflon) tape leaked a bit overnight. Bummer, but no harm since the machine wasn't running (no RAM!)

I'm going to go play with my lighting again and hopefully figure out some of the wiring issues. I still have to replace the SCSI cable due to the issues mentioned in my last post.

Suggestions on cleaning up the looks of things? Pwease ;)

[Starbuck3733T]

Okay, I said I cleaned up some of the wiring, so bear witness! I think it looks much better now. I'm starting to feel good about this project again! Now where's that misplaced $600US for my video card and ram :eyebrow: :D

Anyway...
Notice the single string of molexes running the drives. Much better. I tied up and hid the spare 3 connectors for the u160 SCSI cable under neath the bottom drive bay. I still haven't put my 2nd optical back in, for the reasons mentioned in the posts above this one ;)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/13_case1.jpg

Wow. The blue towel I had under the case was really making things look arse-tackular. With the Akasa paxmate sheets in to accompany the thicker packing foam for the pump, things look much cleaner.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/13_case2.jpg

Close-up of the tiding. You can see my spice where I put in the (white ARG!!, wont take dye) 90* molex connector. I also spaced the drives apart to give them slightly better ventilation for the time being. When I get my next set of richco anti-vibration mounts, or built the silencing enclosure for the 10K SCSIs, I'll be installing a 120GB fluid-bearing maxtor in that empty spot.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/13_case1.jpg

And for those who would like to try their hand at making me a side window...
A layered photoshop file of goliath (pre-powdercoat)is available (1.86MB) (http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/VirtualModding_waysmaller.zip). A new one will be made as soon as I figure out how to steady the camera again, can't remember how i did it the first time.

If you want all 20MB of the hi-res, we'll have to figure out a better way of transferring it!

I'm also noticing something,my finepix 3800 seems to distort the images I shoot slightly, a mild fisheye effect. Wierd.

On the subject UV lighting, it looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and go to smaller 4" UV CCFLs to fit them inside the case. I just can't position the big 12"s where I need them. Oh well. That and the new SCSI cable will be ordered from SVC as soon as I get paid :judge:.

That's all, please email any mods you make to my photoshop file (once you zip it back up) to starbuck3733t AT adelphia D0T net, mmmk?

I'm looking forward to seeing what my fellow modders can do to that file! Let your imagination run wild.

Comments? Questions? Insults?!? :D

[Starbuck3733T]

I appreciate the work ya'll have put into the window designs, but I think ya'll need to think more organic. Think tatoo designs and flowing shapes. Try to use the front side of the case too, seeing the drives/cages WONT be boring. I'm gonna put something interesting in there... I just dunno what it is yet ;)

I gave the PSD to my graphic artist friend this morning, we'll see what he comes up with when he's got a block.

Reviewing the topic I noticed something! I failed to change the URL on one of my pictures in the last picture-update, so here's the picture (I already uploaded it, just failed to reference it!) and the text that was supposed to go with it but went with the wrong picture!

close-up of the tiding. You can see my spice where I put in the (white ARG!!, wont take dye) 90* molex connector. I also spaced the drives apart to give them slightly better ventilation for the time being. When I get my next set of richco anti-vibration mounts, or built the silencing enclosure for the 10K SCSIs, I'll be installing a 120GB fluid-bearing maxtor in that empty spot.

++ And yes, I'm still looking for a black cap for the res.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/13_case3.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

***CARRIER DETECTED***

I'm not dead! Neither is this project.

I've been on christmas vacation, if you could call it that. My GF and daughter have been very sick since the beginning of my christmas time off. Today has been given to me as a day off as GF/daughter have gone to GFs moms house since Starbuck has been playing Mr. Mom for the past week. So I get 2 days of my vacation back, yay me!

On Dec 29 2003, this lil present arrived for me from my faaavvorite store:
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ram.jpg
Mmmm MUSHKIN! 2x256 PC3200 black hi-pref level II (whatever that means) all I know is that it runs 200MHz at 2-2-2-5! That's some fast ram!

After installing the ram, and before I filled everything back up, I had to clean things out.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/cleanout.jpg

I have a bucket I installed a barb into, and I remove the return hose to the res and put it in the bucket. I T-fitting'd the inlet to pull from the res and the bucket, but in hindsight that wasn't really needed.

I ran an entire big bottle of pinesol and 1/2 a bottle of lysol through the loop for 3 hours. Most of the cloudyness on my tubing is gone, once again. Hopefully running the hyperlube supercoolant it will stay that way.

I refilled the loop and there were no leaks, so I fired the system up and to my surprise, the idle temp was at 31*C!! Load temps in prime95 still seem to be 41*C to 38*C or so, so it may just have been that the water wasn't up to idle temperature yet.

Also, the tinnnnny bubbles and foam that the hyperlube created take forever to dissipate. about 5 hours later they're about 1/2 way gone. I suspect they'll be all gone by morning.

The system is now running prime95 torture and 3dmark2001 looping for good measure. I bumped the FSB up another notch and so far the system has made it at lot longer at 23x159 than it has before. Maybe the ram was the ticket.

Crossing my fingers and hoping to be able to run 23x161 for 3.703 GHz... getting to an even 3.7 would just be so sweet. if the ram will let me go higher, that's good too.

That's all for now. I'm saving my $$$ for a radeon 9800 pro now, now that the ram is taken care of. I'll revisit the top mesh intergration when my patience level returns to normal.

[Starbuck3733T]

I'd always made provision for this mod, which I've now actually completed. Here is what the extra (non-fan) hole I made in the backplate was for.

I ripped the male power connector out of a dead/dying PSU and modified my eheim 1250 to use it instead of standard plug. This way I just plug a standard power cable into the plug and my pump is active. This was really easy, just my soldering iron and wire clippers.

I took so long to do it because I was originally going to use a 120V relay (normally open) to open or close the green wire on the ATX power connector. With the pump not plugged in, the green wire would have been an 'open' and the machine would not have been able to power up. Keeps you from powering up w\ out coolant flow. I couldn't find any 120V relays (well, 120V coil relays) locally so I've postponed it for now. I may or may not revisit it... Ideally I'd like to get a flow switch but they're shockingly expensive!

Okay, pics.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plug1.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plug2.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plug3.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plug4.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/plug5.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

Thanks for all the compliments again... I have to figure out something with the pump eventually. It will probalby just get wrapped in sound isolation foam, though. :D

My radeon 9800 pro (sapphire, black PCB OEM version!!!) got here on monday. I just got the waterblock on it tonite. Sweeeet. Here are the details.

Yes, I was so excited that I didn't even shoot a pic before testing it out w\ the fan, uninstalling it, and removing the fan. Diehard!
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon01.jpg

Now sapphire calls this a thermal paste install? No wonder it got so darn hot! (bad contact)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon02.jpg

Ahh, claned up, that's more like it.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon03.jpg

Mounting studs. Dangerden shorted me on nylon washers (or maybe I just didn't need htem on both sides of the board. Better safe than sorry, so I used electrical tape on the compoennt side.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon04.jpg

Studs on the backside of the card.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon05.jpg

Closeup of backside studs, the white thing is a plastic washer.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon06.jpg

A few minutes later, some AS3, and some thumb screw tigthening later, she's installed.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon07.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

Mmmm. blocky.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon08.jpg

Cool.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon09.jpg

Used the same trick I always use by cutting the tubing to approx. length, and putting it in boiling water. Bends like a wet noodle.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeon10.jpg

Installed and all is well... almost. Rage3D Tweak (the overclocking util) doesn't play nice with the cat4.1 drivers I'm using. Details Here (http://episteme.arstechnica.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=50009562&f=67909965&m=46500759999).

I spoke with Spiv about the 'cover plates' for the back tonite, and cutting them/engraving them isn't a problem. I need to finish the artwork that goes on them, but here's the gist of it (the shapes of the plates). They go over where the powdercoat looks crappy in the back.

Plate for around the power plug
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/powerplate.gif

Plate for around the rear 120mm exhaust (it will have designs on it, like the Ars logo!)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/fanplate.gif

CAD done in Qcad.

Requests
What the HELL is the paint code for Toyota's carbon blue metallic. Sherwin-Williams says its 0210 (iirc), toyota's site says 0210, but mnpctech's guy who uses PPG says he's never heard of it

if there are any Germans reading this, could I paypal you a few Euro for a bit of ACFluid from aquacomputer? PLEASE?

The last big ticket items:
The painting
The VFD
The Front bezel cad work

Just got my Qprox ICs this week, need to sit down for a few hours and design a 'sparse mesh' and crap to light them, etc.

[Starbuck3733T]

<font size=5>OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG</font>

Pug (Infidel) OWNZ! He sent me a present! ACFluid and BlooMotion dye :)

3 pictures are worth 3000 words:

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/bloomotion1.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/bloomotion2.jpg
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/bloomotion3.jpg

[Satman]

Hi Starbuck
What a monster goliath turned out to be.
I have built a server in a case very similar using an Aqua 360 rad, Aquatube and Aquastream pump. I will post Photo's later once complete, as i am prototyping some fan controllers for it and need to do some serious cable sorting as currently has 5 hard drives, Dvd and Dvdrw in it.

Must say Goliath turned out a real bute. :D

[Nexxo]

Second that! I like the hard-core tech industrial look. Puts a different spin on the meaning of the words "Quake Engine"...

Just one question: just where do you manage to get all those aluminium panaflos?!?

[Starbuck3733T]

Originally posted by Nexxo@Feb 16 2004, 11:24 PM
Second that! I like the hard-core tech industrial look. Puts a different spin on the meaning of the words "Quake Engine"...

Just one question: just where do you manage to get all those aluminium panaflos?!?
Thanks guys :)

the panaflos on the radiator came from ebay, the rear exhaust came from mnpctech... who apparently bought out all of the ones that the guy on ebay had for sale!

I just got lucky...

[Pug]

I tell you what bud, looking at the before and after pics of the dye - I can see why you were so pleased. ;) :)

[Starbuck3733T]

Where the hell have I been? What's the fsck()ing holdup Star? I'm sure you're all thinking something along those lines.

For one, I've been working on building and designing MAX1668 (they add up to 5 temperature sensors to MBM/Speedfan (via SMBus)) boards seen here Here at WizD forums. The reason I haven't posted them at ars is that I wanted to try to give pug an exclusive to get some people into his forums. I'll have to chatter with him, but I think I've got 6 of the 10 prototypes sold, so the other 4 can go up for sale here.

Secondly, I've been waiting on my metalstock from OnlineMetals.com to make my HDD block. I also ordered a plastic enclosure for the drives from PacTec, but I got it yesterday and it's not freaking big enough! Grr. I can get both drives stuck to the block into it, but there's no room for sound-deadening (that damn 10K RPM whine) around the edges.

Thirdly, I haven't been home a lot. Non-bad stuff happening in my personal life. Who knows, I may propose to her soon. But essentially my good worktime on the weekends is gone because I'm always going to her house.

And on a sidenote, if any of you are visiting Ubercon this weekend in NJ, I'll be there! Look for a guy in either a dark blue walt disney world hooded sweatshirt, or a black hatebreed hooded sweatshirt. He'll be about 6'4" if he's standing up straight

So theres my bump. I swear I'll keep you updated as soon as anything interesting happens.

[Starbuck3733T]

Thanks ubergeek. I didn't even notice the thread bump when you did it.

HDD Block
So, here's the situation. The HDD waterblock is a bust. My design is flawed and i don't have the appropriate tools. So I'm replacing it with this:

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/silentstar.jpg

SilentStar Dual HDD Cooling block + silencing enclosure.

I also just RMA'd my second (and louder) Atlas 10K III 18.2GB u160 scsi drive. It was waaaay louder than its identical brother, probably a bad bearing. Should have the advance replacement in a few days.

Cover Plates for Powdercoating Fowlup
Thanks to Zittware, and This Thread (http://episteme.arstechnica.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=50009562&f=77909585&m=580004223631), I have now sourced the transparent gray plexiglass I needed for the 'fowlup plates'. These plates cover the messups in teh powdercoat that went onto the jbwelded areas of the rear of the case. I should have it in my hands on April the 15th.

Here are the designs: (these are combined CAD dimensions with the graphics to be laser eteched on)

Covering the pump plug area:
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/powerplate_withart.jpg

And around the rear 120mm exhaust:
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/fanplate_withart.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

Bump :)

Well, guess what. I just payed puggy-poo for the silentstar! Yippee!!

I've also been working on the touch-sensor board for the bezel. I feel so freaking guilty for using the autoroute feature of Eagle :( But it did 95% of the work for me! I had to route 2 traces myself, and they weren't even that bad. Why autoroute didn't catch them is beyond me.

What I'm dealing with now on the board is this is the first double-sided board I've ever designed. It also has custom packages (the sensor pads) so I'm trying to make sure that everything comes out on the correct side, and that I dont have any height issues. The side with the sensor pads on it can't be more than 1/8" tall for any of the components or solder points, as it will interfere with the backlight diffusers.

[mnpctech]

I think I've got 6 of the 10 prototypes sold, so the other 4 can go up for sale hMine arrived! Awesome job on this Star. The hardest part has been deciding which project it will be installed :D

I may propose to her soon
Let us know!

[Starbuck3733T]

I've got another one, X_Entity (the bastage!) never contacted me about payment. So I've got a spare. I was thinking about sending it to bit-tech for a review, but if you've got a use for it i'll sell it to you. Though, you'd need to spec your probe and data cable lengths.

[Starbuck3733T]

Since I got my SilentStar Dual HDD block for Goliath from Infidel (aka Pug) at Wizard Designs (www.wizd.co.uk) I've had to do some serious reworkings of goliath, including ditching my home-made reservior to get a bit more breathing room in the case. My eheim 1250 is a bit big. Anyway, I did a drain and complete retube of the system on tuesday, which was a huge pain in the ass without a reservior. So, I ordered a round reservior (http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Misc_Hardware/round.asp) from DangerDen, and did the 2 day shipping option because it was only like $3 more than the standard ground. I'm also stuck on my P166 laptop until goliath gets put back togetehr. I don't dare fire it up, even with the system bled, because the silentstar's fittings leaked a bit and may have wet my HDDs. I can't take the silent star apart w\o draining the system and disassembling the fittings for it, so i'll wait till the res gets here!

Anyway... to my point (blah blah blah): I payed dangerden w\ paypal. for some reason it didn't do an instant transfer like it always has before, it did a e-check. The e-check said uncleared and wasn't going to clear until the 24th! I needed the part YESTERDAY so I called them up, explained the situation and that they could send the cops after me if it didn't clear, and they said they'd ship it out today.

now that's customer service! (No offense to pug, at all). He's still better than them since I'm talking with the OWNER of the biz, not a rep. He says it'll happen, and it does! Since I'm in the US the dangerden route was faster to take than getting an aquatube, and cheaper since I'm slightly strapped for now... I just want to get back to playing far cry!

[Pug]

Hey Star.

I'd moaned to the fittings mfrs about the lack of retention groove on those fittings (being as they're parallel thread & all) a while back, not expecting them to do much and then whaddya know...
I'd ordered some more as I only have a few left and I got a package yesterday including these...

http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk/imgs/15mmbarb.jpg

Stainless steel versions with the integral groove I'd bemoaned the lack of. :)

Want me to add a couple to your care package or d'you think the ptfe tape'll be tidy enough?

[Edit] Might be a little harder to ream out mind...

[Starbuck3733T]

Excellent, but yet another metal in the loop :(. Chrome'd brass (what those were, AFAICT) isn't so bad. Great that they've got the metal retention ring, would have saved me a headache. You can keep them, the PTFE tape is doing its job nicely.

I'll have a dangerden res to replace my homebuilt one on monday :) Gotta fab a custom mount for it in the top 3 dead 5.25" bays though. Not sure exactly how I'm going to do that yet. Might be an exercise in scrap metal and my new bending break!

[Pug]

Cool beans bud. :)

(AFAIK they're Nickel plated FWIW)

New break? Sounds interesting...

[Starbuck3733T]

It’s been a long time, hasn’t it.

Well, for your patience you’re about to be rewarded with a very large update!

In the last few months I've been very busy with things related to the project, and other stuff. My apologies for making you wait so long. Hell, I even chose to play far cry (yes, on goliath!) instead of making this update. But its Friday afternoon at work, Internet access is down, and I've got time!

Part I: SilentStar Dual HDD Cooler
This mind numbingly heavy block of copper came over from my very good friend Pug (aka Infidel, or perhaps Infidel Aka Pug) at Wizard Designs (http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk), so we'll take a nice long look at it -- we'd better for almost $200. At that price, I'd expect it to perform pretty well, silence both my 10KRPM Quantum Atlases, and keep them chilly too. On with the show!

Here's how it arrived, covered in bubble wrap. Should have had more packing, but the shipping from US-UK was LEWD! Pug was just saving $ by cutting down on the amount of packaging. The only thing I've removed for this shot is the brown paper wrapper.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss01.jpg

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss02.jpg

The casing was covered in this sticky vinyl paper, presumably to keep the outside from getting nastied up by fingerprint oils. Nice touch, but I was out of rubber gloves for the install.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss03.jpg

After peeling off the sticky stuff, this is what I found. DENTS! OMG! NOOO! :mad: I can fault parcelforce for them, I'm sure pug sent me one that was in better shape than this when it left his hands. I've got to file an insurance claim with them for it -- maybe they'll replace it (ooh, 2 SS Duals!) :eyebrow:
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss04.jpg

The back plate looked to be in very good condition, although it did seemed to have a bit of a bow in it. That may or may not be by design. Inside, its lined with the same 1/4" thick open cell foam as the rest of the case (see 2nd to next pic). I'm not sure why they chose open cell - closed cell is better at blocking noise.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss05.jpg

Overall shot of the exterior casing. Note the mounting holes on the top for mounting in a 5.25" drivebay.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss06.jpg

The inside of the casing. 1/4" thick lining of open cell foam to knock down vibration and high-pitched noise. The Atlas 10K III is one of the quieter 10K RPM SCSI HDDs, but nonetheless emits a rather obnoxious whine. I shall NOT sacrifice silent for performance, which is why I have so much hope for this product.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss07.jpg

Blocks sitting on drive sitting on blocks. The instructions to mount these were in German, but Pug translated them to English (UK). The instructions were good, though I think the US-UK language barrier made them only minutely more difficult to process. I had no problem reading the original German, either ;)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss08.jpg

The blocks themselves, with the 2 90* fittings that connect the blocks together inside the outer casing. The fittings come with an o-ring w\ retention groove -- this is VERY necessary with o-ring fittings. The fittings themselves connect to a piece of vinyl (presumably) tubing that comes slightly longer than what is needed. the instructions instruct you to cut it to length, not a difficult thing, but it makes me wonder why they did it. I suppose the blocks are more versatile that way? but what has mounting holes of a 3.5" Drive and isn't a 3.5" Drive? Beats me. Also, the blocks appear to have been glass bead blasted, making for a nice eye candy treat. The roughness in this finish is also not a big deal, again because of the low W/in^2
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss09.jpg

I decided to investigate the actual water channel of the block, and found that it actually goes straight in one end and right back out the other without any twists or turns. This is good for flow rate, but is bad (if only slightly ) for the HDD mounted in the bottom of the cooler. My HDDs only put out (IIRC) 18W of heat each, and it is radiated out to HUGE aluminum side bars on the drives. This makes the difference and my concerns of one disk overheating because it’s in the lower spot laughable. 18W across that size of a plate makes for very low W/in^2, nowhere even close to CPU, GPU or Even chipset W/in^2.

Straight in (light source at the other end, above the fitting)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss10.jpg

No light on the other end.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss11.jpg

The two HDDs that these blocks are going to cool. 18.2GB Quantum Atlas 10K III u160s.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss12.jpg

Blocks installed. Can you see what I missed? .... No? .... Is that crystal clear tubing, or no tubing at all :doh:. I obviously did install the tubing, but failed to take a picture before installing it in the housing, and the housing in my case.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss13.jpg

Now, restriction in a 1/2" system is a bad thing. The water channels are nowhere near 1/2" ID on this block, probably more like 5/16 or at worst 3/8". The performance loss due to flow rate drop from installing this block was a concern in the first place, but since my homebrew attempt failed, these were the only alternative. Obviously, I don't want have any more restriction than necessary, so when I noticed that the barbs were smaller ID than the blocks water channels, it was time to ream them out to 5/16". Sprayed with WD40 and went very, very, very slow. The barbs that Pug sent were specific to my needs, since most of his stuff uses 3/8"ID or 1/4"ID tubing. They use BSPP 1/4" thread instead of the 1/4" NPT thread that we "yanks" are used to.

Wrench was clamped to the plate of my drill press to keep fitting from spinning.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss14.jpg

Ahh, its nickel over brass.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss15.jpg

Almost pornographic.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss16.jpg

Consider it reamed.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss17.jpg

It's not easy running the drill head and photographing stuff at the same time. I guess that's why jfettig on procooling video tapes his construction projects!
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss18.jpg

Before (left) and after (right)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss19.jpg

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss20.jpg

Now notice something here, the O-ring on these has NO RETENTION GROOVE in the fitting. Pug's instructions said 'do not over tighten'. Well, how do you know when tight is too tight? When you tighten the fittings too much, the o-ring will 'slip'. when the o-ring slips out (because of the lack of a groove), its radius will get bigger and you'll see it pop out a bit more over the area its compressed on. Why no picture of this you ask???
Because the o-rings leaked like a Bluddy Farking Siv when I filled the loop! I was so afraid they wet my HDDs I waited 3 days until the new reservoir (I was filling a closed loop which SUCKS!) got here, and even the I stilled disassembled it to make sure the drives were dry.

At that point, I drained the loop and removed the o-rings. I replaced the fittings with a hefty covering of PTFE (Teflon) tape, and tightened them down very well. Probably 1.5 turns after the neck contacted the base. No more leaks!

One more shot before they go in the case.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/ss21.jpg

Now what the hell did I do with the installed photo? CRAP! I didn't take one :mad: See the overall shots at the end for an install photo.

[Starbuck3733T]

Part II: Long Live the New Res!

This is pretty ordinary actually, it's the bone-standard Danger Den Round Reservoir (http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Misc_Hardware/round.asp). I couldn't see spending the money on an aquatube if no one was ever going to see it. I didn't want a 5.25" bay res because I've heard they're a pain to bleed, and my homemade round res served me very very well. I ditched the homebrew res because it was taking up too much room in the case and I never completely trusted it, as it was held together with GOOP and nylon screws. It was also the first thing I made for goliath, so it was sort of a sad moment.

I made the decision to mount it in the 'useless' top 3 5.25" bays. I call them useless because they're too shallow (blocked by radiator/fan/shroud) for any drives. I intend to use the rest of this area for the custom front panel electronics (VFD/touch bus/indicators), so I wanted a 'clear solution'. Enter scrap Plexiglas from work. we make all sorts of crap out of acrylic for displaying books, in addition to other stuff, so we have plenty of scrap. I cut this piece to sit on top of the ears for the drive rails, and used a 2" diameter hole saw to drill a hole for the filler cap to fit through. I also drilled holes for the mounting bolts. In this configuration, the top of reservoir cap is just shy of hitting the sheet metal of the top of the case (when its on). This makes filling the loop super easy! I just take the top off, unscrew the cap, put my funnel in and pour away! No mess at all.

From the top. you can just barely make out the line of the edge of the plexi (which I still need to polish up at some point) at the left.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/newres1.jpg

Shot from the front. The rat’s nest in the rear is my VFD/rad lighting that hasn't been connected to anything yet, and is just floating free. the observant among you notice an evil thing in water cooling: a 90* elbow :( (on the left side of the picture). I had to use it to get the tubing to route properly :(. There's also a 90* on the inlet of the pump :doh: to make things work properly. If I ever kill my eheim 1250, I’ll get a hydor L30 II, which is half the size but has more head and the same flow as the 1250. I should be able to use it w\o having to use the 90s. 90s on the inlet side of a 1250 are bad, as most procooling (http://forums.procooling.com/) testers have observed.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/newres2.jpg

And one more modification to the res, the installation of a thermal probe (which is just a TO-92 packaged 2N3904 w\ the base connected to the collector) for measuring water temp w\ my MAX1668 Thermal Sensor (http://episteme.arstechnica.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=50009562&f=77909585&m=703008003631) Board. I may still make another mod for UV lighting if I ever find blue glow dye that doesn't come out of solution and cover my tubes in white crap :(
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/newres3.jpg

Part III.a: Installation of the MAX1668 Thermal Sensor (http://episteme.arstechnica.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=50009562&f=77909585&m=703008003631) Board on ATi Radeon 9800 Pro
Since I'm (trying) to overclock the SNOT out of my sapphire OEM ati Radeon 9800 pro 128 meg (uber rare black PCB edition), I wanted to keep track of how hot the little sucker was getting during gaming. Extended runs of far cry put the GPU at 40*C, and idle in windows puts it at 33*C, all w\ 26*C to 27*C coolant (~72*F environment) How do I know those temperatures??? Lets see:

A bit of Plumbers GOOP on the backside of the GPU. The GOOP is non conductive. My meter registered infinite resistance even at the highest resistance range (20 Mega Ohms) The goop will hold the sensor in place.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeonprobe1.jpg

The exposed leads, solder joints, and exposed copper wire on the probe were also coated in plumbers goop previously, so nothing will short out. I used my 17 ring/box wrench to hold the probe down while the goop set up (gave it about 45 minutes while I went and watched Law & Order)
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeonprobe2.jpg

And bam, she's installed. Me forget to sleeve something? Oh hell no! (except maybe for the reservoir :rolleyes:) I've got to cut its probe length down a bit and sleeve it yet.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/radeonprobe3.jpg


Part III.b: Installation of the MAX1668 Thermal Sensor (http://episteme.arstechnica.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=50009562&f=77909585&m=703008003631) Board in the case.

I had previously meant to use double sided tape, but I opted for a less permanent solution and used Velcro. The hook side is stuck to the case, and the loop side is stuck to the board. Whatever isn't covered by Velcro on the bottom of the PCB is covered in electrical tape. Also, the powder coat is non-conductive, so there's not much to worry about (keep a keen eye out for an easter egg** in these last few pics.

A view from the top down. I forget why I had the reservoir uncapped.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/tempsensor1.jpg

And a view from the front.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/tempsensor2.jpg

Part IV: EZ-Drain

I had long since been looking for an easy way to drain the system that didn't involve pulling barbs off or pulling plugs, but couldn't ever think of a valve small enough to do so. One day I was outside in the smoker's shack at work, and this rusty old valve was sitting on the table. it reminded me of the tap that you use to install an ice maker on a refrigerator. My friend Ryan and I had just done this a few months ago for my girlfriend, and I remembered that it had a valve: the EZ-Drain was born!

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/drain1.jpg

It's a simple little doohickey, one 1/2"ID mending barb from Lowes (be sure to get the kind with a bit of smooth surface in the middle, I think its part A-38something). One icemaker needle valve, also from lowes, a few feet of 1/4" OD (yes, OD) tubing, and the associated compression fittings for the valve. I drilled a hole in the hose mender for the valve, and tapped the hole, as the valve had 1/4" NPT threads on it, and I found the appropriate tap by eye. What I did discover later was that I tapped for the wrong end of the valve! My buddy Ryan had an adapter to make it the right size (that's the bit closest to the mender), so I attached that after adding Teflon tape, and all was well. I threaded the adapter & valve in, and sealed the whole thing up with goop. it passed the pressure test (one thumb over the end, valve closed, blow like hell in the other end).

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/drain2.jpg

Part V: Let the JPEGs do the talking

A few new overall shots.

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/overall1.jpg

http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/overall2.jpg

Damn dents.
http://www.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/overall3.jpg

Cheers/Regards until next time!

[fillip]

B) Nice one star!

[Starbuck3733T]

Am I boring you guys or something??

Nothing new to report, other than the system plays far cry nicely. I FINALLY got the quadrophonic sound working in 'positional' mode last night. Now when stuff is behind me it actually sounds like it is, not just teh same sound coming out of the front and rear speakers.

I've gotta fix dad's laptop's power connector tonite, so no gaming probably. Bahh humbug.

[Knipex]

Looking good Star.

All you need now is to install a V8 to move it around.

Plan on visiting many lan parties :D

[Starbuck3733T]

Hehehehe that would be a negatory Kev. It winded me severly to bring it up the stairs. I have to turn sideways with it to make it through the doors too!

My shuttle mod, when the funds appear, will take care of the LAN/HTPC duties. I'm confused as to go nuts and do a theme or just stick with slick HTPC looking equipment. Theme woould probably be Fear FActory's "Obsolete" album. cover had some neat artwork - half human spine, half mechanized spine.

[mnpctech]

Something like the Bio-mechanical (HR GIGER) look? That would be TITZ

[Starbuck3733T]

take it as you may, just an idea ;)

http://truemetal.org/metalwallpaper/images/fearfactorydemanufacture.jpg

And it's demanufacture, not obsolete. oops.

[mnpctech]

I'm imagining spinal type bones for each corner of case.. Haven't decided where the rusty knife blades fit int yet. I know a guy who could airbrush that theme over entire case. spendy though

[Starbuck3733T]

getting OT but who cares. this project moves slowly, as i don't have as much time as I used to when I was a student, and GFless ;)

My sister can do all that and more - she's done murals in new orleans bars.

[Starbuck3733T]

Ahh, textual update. Not really interesting yet but...

Gary Cho @ CustomPCB and I spoke, and I'm doing a prototype run of my touchbus input panel that uses a Qprox QT150 and provides several lights (one to illuminate keys, one to illuminate keys differently on touch) as well as 2 auxilliary holes per key for any additional LEDs I might think up.

I should have the boards in my hands next week.

[Starbuck3733T]

Custom touchbus input panel shipped today, so 3 business day shipping puts it in my hands on tuesday or wednesday. I hope I have the time to assemble it (not to mention all the components) and test it out. Since electrode design for the Qprox is such a black art, it makes me rather nervous. I'll probably have to switch out Cs (sense capacitor) several times.

[Greeny]

I should have a few funky looking Fear Factory desktops I downloaded from their website a while ago, they don't seem to be on their current webby. I could dig them out and upload them for some inspiration for your design if you would like?

Case is a monster, looking good so far, can't wait to see your custom electronics in action. :)

[Starbuck3733T]

No worries greeny, don't post 'em in the thread though... the bad thing about stangation of projects is taht they tend to vere off topic after a while. No big concern because SOON we'll be back on track.

*considers borrowing mum's DV camcorder to document the workings of the touchpanel*

[Knipex]

What are the chances of me getting one the the next week or 2 ????

[Starbuck3733T]

Well assuming that the design works and isn't overly sensitive or insensitive I did have to have a minimum order of two. I'd sent it you you for the cost of parts + shipping.

In addition to the LEDs (1 key illum, 1 key trigger indicator) per key, it has 5 outputs for the 5 keys, active high, TTL levels. Its meant to talk to a micro controller but some other small circitry would probably enable to it switch FETs for on-off functionality. the qprox and my board have a header to switch what mode the chip is in, toggle or touch-on, release-off.

[Starbuck3733T]

I am such a tease.

Here are some proof of concept photos for how I want my front-panel indicators to look. I'd haev done all the colors I have but I can't seem to locate my big bag of LEDs! (GRRR!!!)

Indicator off: (indicator invisible!)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/activity_off.jpg

Indicator on: (appears out of no where!)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/activity_on.jpg

Videos in action (Divx 5.1.1 pro codec used on my end)

In the light (812KB) (http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/activity_light.avi)

In the dark (268KB) (http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/activity_dark.avi)

This was accomplished by drilling a hole at a 45* angle through solid black 1/4" plexi, and then cutting optical fiber from an SPDIF cable to about 1/2" long. The 45* angle is so that it shines away from your eye, and you don't get 'indicator bloom' like you do on most modded cases -- when you photograph them, you get an indicator that's about 5X as big as it should be. A hole was drilled in the center of the LED, and then fitted to the optical fiber. The 1/4" thick piece holding the optical fiber was placed behind (and being held to by masking tape :p) a piece of 1/8" translucent smoked gray plexi. I'm rather pleased. In the end the 'primary' color for single state indicators will be white. The secondary color (such as the read/write on my CDRW) will be blue. if a tri state is needed (my network card 10/100/act) then it'll go white/blue/purple. I think it looks awesome. :)

[Starbuck3733T]

Well i found somethign to amuse myself between doing the touchboards (parts not here yet). I'll let you guess what it is.

Teaser bump (for all you addicts)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/FPTeaser.png

[fillip]

I'll let you guess what it is.

a drawing? :huh:

[Starbuck3733T]

You can do better than that. Look at the last pic in my last (real, non-teaser) update and try again.

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

Schematic for a masking tape dispenser?

[Starbuck3733T]

Still wrong. C _ _ _ _ _ _ F _ _ _ _ P _ _ _ _

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

lol i'm chasing you around the topics at the moment Star :P

Custom Front Panel?

[fillip]

Still wrong. C _ _ _ _ _ _ F _ _ _ _ P _ _ _ _
Ohhhhh, it's a C _ _ _ _ _ _ F _ _ _ _ P _ _ _ _ !!!

Silly me!
:p

[Starbuck3733T]

lol i'm chasing you around the topics at the moment Star :P

Custom Front Panel?

Ding ding ding ding ding ding!!!

Preliminary, of course. I've got a newer rev that I've printed out here at work (tabloid paper, 11"x17") and I'm going to glue it up to some poster board before sending things off to be laser cut/water jetted. Hey, I've gotta keep some things secret ;)

*hopes the drawing fits*

I've got to redo my current rev to move the VFD up a bit. I stayed up wayy too late last night trying to figure out why QCAD refused to Hatch the baseplate layer, and got stupid and forgot about needing 2 inches or so of space for the sensors.

[Pug]

Awww, I'd guessed that too (when the pics came in).
/me blames delayed ADSL! <_<

[Starbuck3733T]

A whats-going-on-now bumpdate! (yes, I just nomenclated!)

1.) Front panel -
- Design nearly final (still debating on touch sensor integration method (and backlight)
- touch sensor PCB will be seperate from keys. Had to do this for space contstraint reasons
- just dropped $160 on a noritake 128x64 VFD (GU128x64-800A)
- need to correct design for noritake's screen being non-centerline aligned on the PCB (its off to the right by 3mm, no big problem)
- Plastic cannot be cut until Spiv finishes moving (Around aug 6)
- Bottom part of custom front panel will be done in aluminum
- Bottom part of custom front panel will be cut in plastic by Spiv as a prototype
- Bottom part of custom front panel will be cut in 1/8" aluminum plate by mnpctech's waterjet guy

2.) Outer Chassis
- Mnpctech to use PPG paint
- color: Toyota carbon blue metallic
- code: oh shit I've lost the code. Hopefully I posted it in the thread somewhere! (ARGHHH!!!)
- simplistic small rectangular window to be cut by waterjet
- plexi to be lasercut by spiv to match the waterjet cut exactly for flush mount
- CAD drawings still need to be executed for both of these, but should be simple.

3.) Other supporting modifications
- Drives will be modified for external eject (uC control)
- Might do that tonite if I decide to NOT clean my shop and house instead ;)

4.) Touch control bus
- No progress, haven't had time to delve into the coding and hardware of it.
- Need to purchase PIC uC develpment board (from sparkfun!)

[Starbuck3733T]

Upendaten.

Modification of HP 9200i SCSI CDRW (8x4x32, hey, it works fast enough for my taste, and its SCSI!) for external indicators and remote eject.

The victim.
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/cdrw1.jpg

Parts I had to remove for custom front panel to sit flush: volume control & headphone jack. Desoldering went rather easily, and they're both in my spare parts bin now ;)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/cdrw2.jpg

Wires leading to headers on the rear of the board tacked on. Stock LEDs removed. Interface to uC chassis control board for LEDs will by via optoisolator (easiest way ;)) and the remote eject triggered by a 4066 analog switch IC. Big ups to HP for labelling their PCB!
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/cdrw3.jpg

External interface. Ran out of room to loop the wires through! so I brought it up and around the edge of the board. The internal plastic was also modified to trim about a 1/4" out of the way for the wiring to clear the housing. No pic of that... Nobody would ever want a guide for this, who the hell still uses an 8x writer other than me!
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/cdrw4.jpg

The tray before I dyed it black (no after shots. its a black tray, big deal.)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/cdrw5.jpg

Removed vertical mounting ears on tray prior to dying.
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/cdrw6.jpg

I expect my noritake VFD to get here on friday or so.

Today was my last day at my old workplace! i start my new job on monday. The family and I are going to an amusement park tommorow, but I've got friday dedicated to doing the same mod on my DVD-305S slot load SCSI DVD-ROM.

[Starbuck3733T]

Got my VFD in on friday, and spent a bit of my day making the cable.

VFD. man,this thing is heavy (it should be as it has two large 3/8" thick pieces of glass sealing the screen)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd01.jpg

I put some masking tape over the screen to protect it while i worked on the VFD.
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd02.jpg

First task at hand was to add a decoupling cap between the gnd and +5v lines on the display
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd03.jpg

1uF/50V.striped leg to ground, other to +5V.
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd04.jpg

I salvaged a 2x13 pin connector from an old 486 box's parallel port connecor (Before they put them all on the motherboard). Its keyed, so there is no way for me to mess up the connection and fry my precious vfd (hey, its $160 - better be careful.) Below is the 25pin D shell connecor for the parallel port (new, but it was in my bag-o-bits. they can be had at RadioShack/RS/maplin for very cheap)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd05.jpg

Since pins 18-25 on the parallel port are all ground, connect them all together so one only has to run a single line over to the common ground pins (all the even numbered ones up to 24 on the VFD. Cut a length of wire (see the red mark) then strip all the insulation off...
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd06.jpg
and solder the bit on...
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd07.jpg

A few moments later, following the LCDStudio/LCDInfo/LiquidMP3] wiring (http://www.lcdstudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=350) (Ray you rock, but i've got the bar graph driver bug.. :() The beauty of having 5000 ft of extra cat3 ;)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd08.jpg
(yes, I did connect the ground and trim the excess wires after this shot).
(No pics of the other end - oops!)

Nothing impressive, as im having driver bug issues with the display. The noritake blinkenlights player looks really cool. I'll have to shoot some video of that when i get home (at the GFs for the weekend at the moment)
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/vfd09.jpg

[Nexxo]

w00t! Very nice! Why the decoupler cap, by the way? Is it sensitive to PSU noise or something?

[Starbuck3733T]

The closer you have a decloupling cap to the device you're supplying, the better. Had I not been following spock's wiring diagram, I probably would have skipped the cap. I also did not put in a switch on /RESET, but intsead tied it high. When in doubt, tie it. never leave inputs floating as it can have some undesired effects.

[Starbuck3733T]

Accidental Update:

Shut the fans down to blow the case out with some canned air for cleaning (I smoke too damn much, that's what... dust... ick.) I'll be glad when Im married and can't smoke in the house - machines will stay cleaner..

I cleaned it out, all was good. Decided to go take a shower before nip/tuck came on. Looked at houses. Looked for ministers for the wedding online...

All of a sudden the box starts making a hell of a lot of noise, the fans kick up to 100% (the bios QFAN warning trip on the CPU was set to 55*C). I look and realize what I had done. I had never turned speedfans automatic fan control back on after I had turned the fans down to 0% each.

Anyway The FANS WERE OFF FOR AN HOUR!!!

I immediatly check temps:
CPU: 55*C
Water: 37*C (HOLY SHIT!!)

Turned automatic control back on. temps slowly down. About 5 minutes later:
CPU: 46*C (this in reality means 34, damn IC7 is off by 12*C!!)
Water: 28*C
1 hour at passive and this system was solid, given, it was only web surfing, but still that's damn good. 28*C to 25*C is nominal water temp on this rig. Fans run at near silent until the water temp hits 30, then throttle up accordingly.

And now as I finish this, temps are back down to normal. 42, 27*C on CPU, water.

Nuts. Crazy. AWESOME!

[Pug]

Hehe. I ran my clearPC completely passive (no fans internal or external) with CPU, PSU, GPU and HDD in the loop on an APE360.
Got up to 60°C under heavy gaming and decided to whack a fan back on. ^_^

Not bad for no fans whatsoever though. -_-

I know what you mean about dust (http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk/images/misc/dust.jpg) though. :lol:

[Starbuck3733T]

Yuck man. I haven't gotten that (yet). Need to install a used-fabric-softener sheet filter on my rad to prevent it. The dust im talking about is the microscopic stuff settling on my tubing.

And guess what: even ACFluid is gradually changing the color of my tubing :(

What do you think the likelyhood is that you can get that UV blue tubing stuff of yours in half 1/2"..... you know, the stuff you said you weren't having buildup issues with?

[Starbuck3733T]

Video Preview of the Chassis Control Board
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/ccb_videotitle.jpg
Video Preview: 14MB, DIVX Video. ~5 minutes. (http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/FULL_DIVX_LOWQ.avi)
I narrate for about functions of the board and some other stuff. Check it out, its worth it.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/ccb_both.jpg
The whole setup - messy, I know. Keep in mind this is ONLY a prototype setup; all of what you see and more will be combined onto one board.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/ccb_brain.jpg
the 16F872 powered brain, on prototype board from www.SparkFun.com

http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/ccb_inputboard.jpg
the input board prototype, as outlined here (http://www.wizdforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=428)

[mnpctech]

Dude, that is soo tight!

"By Starbuckt3733T" logo :cool:

[Starbuck3733T]

I'd really love to do even more custom modtronix, if not for me, but for other people. Now that I've got this PIC uC thing down, I feel much more comfortable (like doing that dude's motorcycle lights you mentioned a while ago).

[fillip]

That circuit is seriously sweet dude. It is so damn impressive.
** Hand clap, hand clap **

However, i do notice that once that ciscuit is intergrated into Goliath and stealthed behind plexi (if indeed thats what you're gonna do) no one else is gonna have a clue how to start up your system! Maybe that's the point ^_^

Just hope you don't foget which buttins do what :p

[Starbuck3733T]

ahh yeah, that is partly the idea. I haven't figured out a good way (yet) of labelling the buttons. Possibly waterslip labels behind the plexi but in front of the illumination (the button illumination, input board, and brain will be powered from +5VSB)

[fillip]

ahh yeah, that is partly the idea. I haven't figured out a good way (yet) of labelling the buttons. Possibly waterslip labels behind the plexi but in front of the illumination (the button illumination, input board, and brain will be powered from +5VSB)

If it's going behind plexi just reverse etch it, that will look the muts nuts when lit up, and won't be seen when off - another one of my ideas i want to use soon.
:D

[Starbuck3733T]

Yup, you nailed it. Look back further in the thread for the stealthed indicators post. This is an idea and the concept I've had since I started this thing. I want it to look like a monolith (which was almost the projects name) when off.

[fillip]

Yup, you nailed it. Look back further in the thread for the stealthed indicators post. This is an idea and the concept I've had since I started this thing. I want it to look like a monolith (which was almost the projects name) when off.

It's that post that started me thinking about the use of smoked plexi and reverse etching the back of it so from the front it's stealthed but visible in all it's neon glory when lit up. I don't think the control panel i intend to make will come close to yours but aslong as it does what i need and looks cool thats enough.

[Starbuck3733T]

Well, turkey day (at 1:50AM my time) update. I'll be hitting black friday like a mad man and goliath will get a few presents... a pair (or possibly 3) of 19" LCDs. Word.

So here's the update... I was at grandma's house earlier today and its been a long day that was full of food, and made me very tired. I drake lots of caffiene on the way home, leading to sleep deprived goofyness: my most creative mood! I capitalized on this by doing up the window design for goliath, something inspired by the Nip/Tuck (http://www.uemedia.net/artman/uploads/0818niptuck2_big.jpg) Opening credits. More on the credits (and the entire sequence) available here. (http://www.uemedia.net/CPC/designinmotion/article_4084.shtml)

Anyway, the simulation imho doesn't do justice on the future Carbon Blue Metallic (http://www.teamcelica.com/members/8/bigbirdceli8.jpg) paint job... I'm not sure how to model that in photoshop. Anyway, here's the concept:

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/conception_large.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

80% done on the front ports: 2 usb, 2 firewire (1 mini, 1 normal) and 2 headphone jacks (1 front port, 1 rear port) (not installed yet).

The process:
- take slot cover template that the ports came out of and mark their outlines on the bay cover (which screws in, sweet)
- mark holes for headphone jacks
- make sure everything is centered nicely
- cut with a dremel
- take existing ports
- cut in half
- solder in an additional 12" of wire
- seal up solder
- sleeve it.


Whats left:
- Have bracket powdercoated, will be done when i have enough stuff to be taken to Nittany Powdercoating. small run <> cost effective.
- buy headphone jacks
- install and wire up headphone jacks

Bracket with wires fed in the back. Will still need to be painted.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/26/frontports1.jpg

Wires coming out the back mobo side as I'm feeding them.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/26/frontports2.jpg

Plug them into my mobo (with fiber gigabit card beneath!)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/26/frontports3.jpg
.. and i'm not taking that card out to photograph the firewire connectors!


Installed and ready to rock. (works great, all solder joints solid and valid)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/26/frontports4.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

I couldn't find software to make my VFD Display do what I wanted it to do.... so I wrote my own in .NET utilizing inpout32.dll (http://www.logix4u.net/inpout32.htm) and noritake.c (http://www.picant.com/c2c/examples/noritake/noritake.c.html) by Henry Skipari of LCDInfo fame. Henry's code was indespensible when coming up with a library (VFDFunctions.dll) to talk to the LCD. I haven't tried any of the fancy scrolling stuff yet (as I haven't had the time) but the set brightness functions work, as do the set column and set row commands. With those working, I wrote something to put a test bitmap on the screen in .NET as well (VFD FrontEnd Tester), and here is a shot of it at about 2am last night (I was up late, what fun this is!) of it displaying the test bitmap.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/27/vfdwoot.jpg

Woot! Now I can make it do all sorts of crazy crap. Whatever I WANT in fact. Plans are to at least do graphing (cpu, temps, net usage, fan speeds, clock speeds (<3 speedfan)) and monitoring everything speedfan gives me (I've got a .NET module that interops with speedfan too!)

[zer0]

thats awsome i havent seen any LCD programs display a bitmap like that. very cool

[mnpctech]

That looks real sharp!

[Sinner]

dang that is wicked! i want one!!

[Starbuck3733T]

For those interested, my home made waterblock.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/block/block1.jpg (http://episteme.arstechnica.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=50009562&f=77909585&m=922006758631)

Not bad for my first try at a block, and not bad considering it was done all with a slide vise and drill press.

edit: click the pic to go to the thread.

[scopEDog]

Now THAT is impressive. Nice work man, what kind of performer is it?

[Starbuck3733T]

Haven't found out yet... I don't have the taps I need to put the fittings in the top. I just bid on a set of 1/8 thru 1/2 and another auction that's a 3/4" NPT. After I got those taps from you I should be in real good shape on in the tap department. I'll need to get a set of bolt taps eventually, but that seems like something someone can get me for fathers day.

But what I really want is this:
http://i16.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/1d/b3/80_1_b.JPG (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=58254&item=3863986586&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW)

Taig CNC mill -- click the pic for the auction.

[fivecheebs]

Nice block :) (is this an alternative to your modded AQ block? or an addition) can we have some more pics? ^_^

[edit] ... ooops just followed your link :) very good effort, i hope it works well for you, cant wait to see the testing results :)

[Starbuck3733T]

The circuit for the ICCB is DONE as far as the design is concerned. The board layout, that's a different story. I'm going to have a hard time fitting all of this stuff on the board size I have to fit it on unless I go to SMT (surface mount) components. My regular place of buying stuff might carry it, and it'll be smaller but it might not be too much fun to solder it. We'll see I suppose.

So, teaser ;)

Integrated Chassis Control Board
Preliminary (Unchecked) Schematic Preview
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/28/iccb.gif

A N D I N E E D I D E A S
...On how to combine the light from 2 or more LEDs into a single piece of plastic optical fiber for my front indicators, a preview of which was seen before in the thread, and is seen again below.
http://premium.uploadit.org/Starbuck3733T/activity_on.jpg

I'd prefer to keep the LEDs on the PCB ofr the chassis control board, but i've got no idea how to get 3 or more LEDs "light" into a piece of fiber. I got my fiber from hacking up spare TOSLINK optical cables (bought a buttload of them for this purpose for cheap @ compgeeks last year). Ideas?

[mnpctech]

Nice work on the drill press Star! (insert thumbs up)

Wow, that was a good auction.

I'd check with your local used heavy equipment reseller too.

[Starbuck3733T]

Will do.

Its winter and I <3 PICs, so keep me in mind for any interactivity you'd like in your case designs. :)

[fivecheebs]

Wow, that circuit is mental! What size board are you putting it all on?

As for the optics, Hot glue can make a good medium for "moving" light, but if you cant hide it somewhere then it may look a bit ghetto. It may work ok with a pyramid shaped bit of plexy and a hole in the top to fix the fibre to. I would imagine that SMT leds would probably be better if your mixing colours as you can get them all closer together to appear to be more like one source.

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

How about 3 lengths of fibre-optic cable, 1 coming from each LED, that terminate in a clear plexy block behind the front panel? If it works it might be the easiest way of doing it. Plus you could try putting silver foil or something on the sides you dont want light escaping from to see if it makes it any brighter.

:edit: I dont know anything about electronics but are tri colour LEDs feasible or would it over complicate the circuit? :/edit:

[Starbuck3733T]

Wow, that circuit is mental! What size board are you putting it all on?

As for the optics, Hot glue can make a good medium for "moving" light, but if you cant hide it somewhere then it may look a bit ghetto. It may work ok with a pyramid shaped bit of plexy and a hole in the top to fix the fibre to. I would imagine that SMT leds would probably be better if your mixing colours as you can get them all closer together to appear to be more like one source.

If I hadn't just bought 50 white and 50 blue from the chi-win store on ebay this might work... plus I have existing super-bright-uv and super-bright-red. Never thought of a hot glue blob on a cluster of LEDs. Experimentation is required! And, as D_R_B suggested, I could cover the cluster with foil to contain the light and hopefully have it bounce around and into the fiber.

How about 3 lengths of fibre-optic cable, 1 coming from each LED, that terminate in a clear plexy block behind the front panel? If it works it might be the easiest way of doing it. Plus you could try putting silver foil or something on the sides you dont want light escaping from to see if it makes it any brighter.

:edit: I dont know anything about electronics but are tri colour LEDs feasible or would it over complicate the circuit? :/edit:

Its an idea I had considered before, as someone is doing that on bit-tech, but each LED requires either 3 PIC IOs (one for each color) or 3 I^2C PWM chips. Either way, it makes the chip count Huuuggggggeee. Bigger than what I have now, believe it or not. I wish I had the 'courage' to have a second pic that did the lighting control, but I'd still be short on IOs even on a 24 I/O chip unless I went the I^2C chip route which defeats the purpose. Good idea regardless.

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

I did suspect that the fact it wasnt on your circuit means it would make it very complicated.

[Starbuck3733T]

Arright, perfection takes time. I'm nuking the ICCB in its current state (all the logic and optocouplers driving the status leds) in favor of a 2nd PIC 16F872 to do the lighting control. Fsck me, I can't believe I'm this anal?

Or is it: fsck me I can't believe I'm this detail oriented :wacko:

Anybody know if the 3m heavy duty tape will...
- stick to powdercoat strong enough to hold on ~ 2 pounds of plastic + a foot of stainless steel hinge?
- stick plexi together to the point where there's no way in hell it'll ever move?

[mnpctech]

Anybody know if the 3m heavy duty tape will...
- stick to powdercoat strong enough to hold on ~ 2 pounds of plastic + a foot of stainless steel hinge?
- stick plexi together to the point where there's no way in hell it'll ever move?

Worth a try I'd say... apply as much as you can.

[Starbuck3733T]

How thick is that stuff anyway?

[Starbuck3733T]

VFD Playing Animations (532KB, Divx 5.1.1)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/27/vfdwoot.jpg (http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/29/VFD_Animation.avi)
Clicky for video :)

[zer0]

wow that is amazing...

[fillip]

Most dramatic clock i've ever seen http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/tongue.gif

lol

That is sweet though.

[Starbuck3733T]

"haha" fillip. The only reason i've got the gif player going first is that it was both the easiest and hardest to program. Easiest to program because its just open file stream, select frame, display, keep track of frame # and repeat if needed, but also the hardest because you want to have it update as fast as humanly possible. Originally I was topping out at about 9FPS with the preview screen off (the user control that has to be drawn on the UI thread, so it slows things down a bit) and about 5FPS with the preview on. I'm still at about 6FPS for the max rate with the user control on, but 22 FPS with the preview off! How? Multithreading! The program goes the drawing of the next screen and the writing of the VFD in a non-UI thread. The UI thread waits for the worker (drawing, writing) threads to finish & exit (ThreadName.Join()) when the timer fires that says 'okay, you draw next screen now!'. The clock was just a cakewalk to write... draw a bit map, get thej graphics for it, draw a string on those graphics, great a new 'screen' object (one of my classes), write the displayable data of the screen object to the VFD. Done, repeat. No keeping track of anything. The other bitch was figuring out how to do smooth screen rotations, such as having animations stop on their last frame... got it sorted, but then a bunch of other timing bugs bit me in the butt, and I think I have all of those nailed down now too. Not the perfect, lagless screen transitions I'd have hoped for, but not bad. The problem lies in the fact that when the transition timer fires, there's no screen pre-rendered for the next plugin. You can't prerender all plugins a screen at startup because by the time you get to them, the screen is out of date (like with the clock plugin) so you HAVE to render it on transition, and doing this in the threaded manner makes no sense since you have to wait for the thread to exit before you can use the data anyway, as upposed to once its up and running you, by the time the polling (next frame please) timer fires, the background thread has already rendered the next frame...

And if I've gone over your heads and am rambling, I apologize.

[mnpctech]

That display is sick!

How thick is that stuff anyway?

1/32"

[Starbuck3733T]

I went on a vision quest for that tape mnpctech, and didn't find it ANYWHERE. Ace doesn't have it. walmart doesn't have it. Lowes (home improvement center) doesn't have it. Is there anyway I could paypal you a few bucks and you could drop me some in the mail? I'm not even all that sure I'll use it now BUT it's handy stuff to have in the future.

[fillip]

Holy crap! you programmed all those screen animations yourself?!?! http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/blink.gif

I thought they were software plugins for whatever you were using to communicate with the display. That is truely sensational. http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/eek.gif

Before you posted that I was looking at one of the smaller Noritake VFD's but if you require that kind of programming (what is it written in by the way?) sod it, i'll just settle for an M.O. LCD instead.

[Starbuck3733T]

The software that drives the display was written in VB.NET (.NET framework v1.1), and the GIFs themselves were ganked from Pioneer's (the audio folks) website, reduced to 2 colors (they were 3) and resaved in animated gif format.

I've written the whole thing as an extensible architecture so I can easily add plugins down the way, with the low-level stuff of writing to the display and rotating the plugins handled by the main program. The plugin just has to produce a 128x64 bitmap when its polled for a frame. Here's the source for the 'clock' plugin. The "it is now" text is a variable that can be passed in upon plugin creation, so thats why you don't see it anywhere.

PluginTextTest.vb:
-----------------------
Namespace Plugins
Public Class pluginTextTest
Inherits Plugins.PluginBase

#Region "Globals"
Dim _screen As Screen
Dim _notepad As New Bitmap(128, 64)
Dim _note As String
Dim _g As Graphics = Graphics.FromImage(_notepad)
Dim _font As New Font("Arial", 8, FontStyle.Bold)
#End Region

#Region "Subs"
Public Sub New(ByVal Note As String)
_note = Note
End Sub
Private Sub buildScreen()
_g.Clear(Color.Black)
_g.TextRenderingHint = System.Drawing.Text.TextRenderingHint.SingleBitPer PixelGridFit
_g.DrawString(_note & Date.Now.ToString("hh:mm:ss"), _font, New SolidBrush(Color.White), 0, 27)
_screen = New Screen(_notepad, False)
End Sub
#End Region

#Region "Stuff to talk to the interface"
Public Overrides Function GetRefreshedScreen() As Screen
buildScreen()
Return _screen
End Function
Public Overrides ReadOnly Property PollInterval() As Integer
Get
Return 1000
End Get
End Property
Public Overrides ReadOnly Property RotateInterval() As Integer
Get
Return 5000
End Get
End Property
Public Overrides ReadOnly Property Screen() As Screen
Get
Return _screen
End Get
End Property
Public Overrides Function ToString() As String
Return "Text Test: " & _note
End Function
#End Region
End Class
End Namespace


Pretty simple :)

The next one on the plugins list is the Speedfan and system stats screen, that should be a real monster ;)

[fillip]

Holy crap dude, i need to learn VB so bad, well .NET variant at least...

The software that drives the display was written in VB.NET (.NET framework v1.1), and the GIFs themselves were ganked from Pioneer's (the audio folks) website, reduced to 2 colors (they were 3) and resaved in animated gif format.
Thought I recognised the dolphin at the start, you little pilferer you! http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/wink.gif

[Starbuck3733T]

oh and... :)

[Starbuck3733T]

Holy crap dude, i need to learn VB so bad, well .NET variant at least...


Thought I recognised the dolphin at the start, you little pilferer you! http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/wink.gif

Learn any .NET variant you want... they're all useful. I just happen to prefer the VB syntax to say, C#. That and C# has a few things that are 'extra' to do some more simplistic stuff, so I skipped it. I know C plenty well, but VB just felt more comfortable. I'll stick to C/ASM on my PICs :D :h34r:

[Pug]

And if I've gone over your heads and am rambling, I apologize.
That's ok... we're used to it by now. :p ;)

Fuggin' awesome work, as ever. :cool:


I really want a VFD (or mini TFT now). <_<

[Starbuck3733T]

Compliments from the master never hurt. I still bow to your and mnpctech's bondo magic skills. I think if the three of us got into putting together cases for Intel like some of the bit-tech boys get to do, we'd destroy them! But that's a discussion for another thread... some day we must unite!

[fivecheebs]

Kudos star! Thats impressive stuff writing your own software for it, i wouldnt know where to begin! Does it support any other screens ... a 311 perhaps? ;)

[Starbuck3733T]

If its graphical and I could write a driver for it, perhaps. That's the nice thing about it being modular :) That sort of thing is down the line, if I choose to make it flexible enough to drive other screens. I suspect ray of LCDStudio will beat me to it though :)

[mnpctech]

Is there anyway I could paypal you a few bucks and you could drop me some in the mail? I'm not even all that sure I'll use it now BUT it's handy stuff to have in the future.

Do you have Home Depots in Philly?

Sure, but I'll try searching for you online first.

I think if the three of us got into putting together cases for Intel like some of the bit-tech boys get to do, we'd destroy them!

no doubt :cool:

[Pug]

Compliments from the master never hurt. I still bow to your and mnpctech's bondo magic skills. I think if the three of us got into putting together cases for Intel like some of the bit-tech boys get to do, we'd destroy them! But that's a discussion for another thread... some day we must unite!
Master? Where? :unsure:

Damn man, the WizD collective would rule the scene if we could get us all in on one project... Picture it - Chewy, G-gnome, ScopE, Nexxo, Dutch, Mashie, CrimsonSky, us three etc... :wub:

[Starbuck3733T]

@mnpctech: philly is about 5 hours away (a bit of a haul for tape). If you find it online, that'd be lovely. *scratches head* I wonder if www.generalstores.psu.edu carries it...hrmm..

edit: apparently not.

@mncptech: what's the 'part number' or 'model #' on that stuff?

[Starbuck3733T]

Begin Encrypted Message: Cebwrpg Ybt Flfgrz unf orra pbzcebzvfrq, unpxrq ol Evpuneq Chtu! Jbexfubc vagehfvba unf orra qrgrpgrq!

Me: What the HELL is going on here

My intrusion detection system caught this single, fascinating frame:

Original: http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/001.jpg De-noised: http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/002.jpg
Inverse Gausianned: http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/003.jpg
It appears that this scallywag broke into my house and was spying on my project!

Forensic examination of a SmartMedia card left behind at the scene yielded the following.

EXIF Comment: Strange box that arrived at the MRI - with Starbuck's name on it. I could feel the energy radiating from the box, calling me, begging me to open it. "You must open me, fear not!"
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/101.jpg

EXIF Comment: I looked closer, the box appeared to be from the magical land of plexi and laser cutting, but the box may hold a curse too.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/102.jpg

EXIF Comment: The cursed box's powers were simply too strong, I had to open it!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/103.jpg

EXIF Comment: The box began radiating a strange glow, followed by a low, rumbling, vibration. Startled, I dropped it.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/104.jpg


EXIF Comment: I am terrified.. The box continues to rumble, and slowly unwrapped itself, revealing its cursed cargo... I am terrified, I must leave!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/105.jpg

End forensic evidence. I was greeted by the box, looking harmless, spread open on my office floor when I arrived home one day. It appears that the spy felt the impending curse which I was blind to seeing at the time, and fled the scene. I was very excited to see my hardwork embodied in 1/4" and 1/8" thick plexi, so I began to test fit the pieces.

The baseplate tapped in place with modeller's masking tape.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/106.jpg

Perfect fit, my dimensions were dead on. The sides, top, and bottom all line up perfectly
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/107.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/108.jpg

The outer plate for the new front bezel, wrapped lovingly in plastic, still with its own plastic cover sheet intact.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/109.jpg

The top and bottom plates taped into place over the baseplate. The top plate will stay as-is and the bottom plate will be glued to the baseplate, and painted to match the rest of the case.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/110.jpg

Flashless shot.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/111.jpg

Close up, flashless shot. The spot for the CDRW tray will be filled with matching plastic, but the bottom part of the panel needs to be recut. The slot for the DVD-ROM and hole for the CDRW were placed too high by about 500e^-6 m. No big deal there.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/112.jpg

To the basement!
When making modifications to the housing involving drilling, dremmeling, or anything else that makes a huge mess, its a good idea to gut the system. Yes, I left the mobo and radiator and PSU intact for now - I'll be blowing everything out with compressed air before reassmbly.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/213.jpg

Remember the rear faults in the powder coating that made the backside so damn ugly? Well... we'll cure that.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/201.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/202.jpg

Laser cut 'acrylic fowlup cover and dressup plate' with custom etching (you guys will LOVE the etching :)) In place, protective film on, holes marked for the centers.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/203.jpg

Holes drilled in plexi and case, case tapped with 8-32, and plexi cover attached with black headcap screws. The plexi is a bit darker than that, but the flash washed it out. Quite difficult to photograph.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/204.jpg

Money shot #1
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/205.jpg

Money shot #2 :D (SUP GUYS!?)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/206.jpg

Money shot #3 :D (SUP GUYS!?)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/207.jpg

Tapping the holes for the power plate after marking and drilling them. (forgot to photograph it for the top version)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/208.jpg

Installed and held in place with headcap screws. (Ignore all the dirt inside the case, its mostly powder from drilling through the jbweld - it'll be cleaned before reassembly)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/209.jpg

Money shot #1 (stupid ISO 100 equivalent camera!)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/210.jpg

Money shot #2
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/211.jpg

BIG Money shot #2 (the crinkle coat powde coat and the plates look AWESOME together!)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/212.jpg

Now, if I only had a door...OR the curse of Zittware strikes home... maybe the spy was right?
One small problem with mounting a hinge on the front of the case...
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/214.jpg

...Cured by judicious use of the Dremel!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/215.jpg

12" of 304 stainless steel hinge (to be powdercoated in the future) aligned with tape to hold it, then clamped to be drilled.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/216.jpg

Lower hole drilled through both sides of hinge, and case. (9/64" for the headcap screws) Damn stainless is hard stuff!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/217.jpg

Hole in the top half to match (I couldn't put it in the same place as the bottom (2 knuckles in from the end) because there's no case structure underneath it to drill into/tap to hold it.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/218.jpg

Drilled hinge setup in my big drillpress, 5/32" hole to be drilled (so that the 9/64" headcap screw can pass easily through it)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/219.jpg

Size difference.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/220.jpg

Case has been tapped with 8-32 tap, hinge attached!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/221.jpg

Hinge lines up perfectly with the ouside edge of the sheet metal... but one small problem (which I anticipated) -- it can't close all the way!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/222.jpg

Problem solved, mill a portion of the stainless out for the headcap to protrude through, and mill same relief hole in the baseplate. Everything closes up nice...
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/223.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/224.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/225.jpg

As I was milling out the groove for the hinge knuckle to ride in, diaster struck. Not because I dropped it, but because I was cranking the X axis and not watching where the work was going. I cranked it into the pillar on my millpress rig, and then a sickening SNAP. The spy was right, the parts are cursed.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/226.jpg

DOAH!

No one was harmed in this update, and the damaged pieces will be recut. Until next update, my fellow modders in arms...

[fillip]

There seems to be some competition as to who can have the most dramatic updates, I love it!.
Great work there dude, I love the idea of just etching stuff on the reverse of perspex like you've done there, and the front panel is pretty tasty.

I've seen mug shots of that scally somewhere before... http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/unsure.gif

Oh, and Star, either you have lovely hands or you got youself an assistant! http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/wink.gif

[Starbuck3733T]

There seems to be some competition as to who can have the most dramatic updates, I love it!.
Great work there dude, I love the idea of just etching stuff on the reverse of perspex like you've done there, and the front panel is pretty tasty.

Thank you!

I've seen mug shots of that scally somewhere before... http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/unsure.gif
Hrmm... he does look familiar
Oh, and Star, either you have lovely hands or you got youself an assistant! http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/wink.gif
Those ARE my hands. I think the flash washes out the hairy digits.

[fivecheebs]

OOOh nice update ..... that scally does look vaguely familiar .....:h34r: :lol:

[Leeum]

Awesome to this project alive and kicking :D Keep it up star ^_^

[mnpctech]

Mighty juicy update here. Smoked bezel :wub: You'll make the kids @ ars proud :D

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/110.jpg



About that tape, I forgot what you intend for it?

#4010 Found it here (http://store.yahoo.com/suppliesroom/mmm4010.html)
http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/HD100/HDWin/HDwin1.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

ROCK ON BILL! I knew the part number would be the key. I'll be sticking the bottom part of the bezel to the base plate (when I get the new one) and bondoing up the gap, primering it, and save it for painting day.

[Nexxo]

That looks extremely tasty!

Since the cosmetic case modifications on Metaversa will require laser etched stainless steel and plexi, can you tell me where you had yours done? It looks very pro.

[fillip]

That looks extremely tasty!

Since the cosmetic case modifications on Metaversa will require laser etched stainless steel and plexi, can you tell me where you had yours done? It looks very pro.
Nexxo my G/f's mother owns a sign firm...

they have a laser etcher so I can see if it can be done there. They're one of the more reasonably priced sign companies around and they're in Birmingham aswell mate, if you want I can get you contact details or I can ask on your behalf?

[Nexxo]

Brilliant mate! :wub: Yes, if you can ask on my behalf and provide me with the contact details as well, that would be great!

[fillip]

No probs.

Hazlehurst (nameplates & signs) Ltd
Unit 4 Lee Bank Business Centre
55 Holloway Head, B'ham, B1 1HP
0121 632 6758
I'll let Michelle (my better half) know so she can tell her mom, but i'm, pretty sure the laser will cut through plastics no sweat and can etch pretty much anything - AFAIK

[Nexxo]

You're a star! Many, many thanks!

[Knipex]

Looking good star.

cannot wait to see it all mounted.

[Starbuck3733T]

Might be a while Kev... Ben seems to be taking his sweet time getting back to me. surprising considering that he was so responsive the first time through. Maybe my mail to him got eaten? That's ok - I've thought of another plexi revision to make mounting the touch sensor keys much easier to get them perfectly aligned.

Speaking of which, I'd guess the next major update to occur next week sometime... construction of touch sensor keys.

[Pug]

Pics on the last page aren't loading for me. :(
I'll hafta check back later...

I can see the bezel shot & that's about it but even at that... I'm lovin' it. :wub:

[Edit] Aha! Here they come (the first few, at least)...


.....


Bastard!! :rant:

:D

[Starbuck3733T]

Awww man that sucks...

you can pound thru them here http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30 ...

You're going to laugh your ass off if they do load inline :(

btw, personal.psu.edu is a piece of crap - but its FREE with an assload of bandwidth attached to it.

[Pug]

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/205.jpg
Coooool. :cool:

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/30/207.jpg
Awwww. :wub:

[Starbuck3733T]

And if you were around at the time the etches were sent out for production for me to get the logotype at the top of the forum in PSD format, you'd have a biggun logo like arstechnica... I still like it a lot there, but this place is now very much where I spend most of my time.

[Starbuck3733T]

Touch Board Key Construnction

We all remember this thing - the touch control board. Also remember how ugly it is. Why? because the keys are ugly and there's no hiding the subunit anywhere... not a problem anymore. I've got to do something while I wait on a response from Ben @ mountainmods.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/ccb_inputboard.jpg

Raw 1" plexi cylinder arrives @ my house from the land of ..well... everything. McMaster-Carr, what DON'T they sell?
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/001.jpg

Setting the fence on my bandsaw to 3/4" for each 'key' section of the cylinder. This appears to be (by imperical investigation) the approximate best length for LED light spread of the blue and white LEDs I'm using. Any shorter and the light is too intense, any longer and the light is concenrated in the middle (bad as you'll see later)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/002.jpg

4 keys cut. Note that these went for a little ride on the belt sander after these shots
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/003.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/004.jpg

My ingenious way of marking the center of a circle... I got lucky that the label on the solder was symeteric and had a line down the center of it. so I put a piece of tape on the key to be marked, marked one line, rotated, marked another. Boom, where the lines cross is the center.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/005.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/006.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/007.jpg

Key secured in my drillpress, ready for the hole through it. The hole is to accomodate the wire going up to the touch-sensor's electrode (a sanded flat penny).
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/008.jpg

Drilled with a 5/32" straight through.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/009.jpg

Preparing for the shallow 3/4" hole to accomodate the touch electrode (penny, which is about 3/4" diameter) with 3/4" wood spade bit (works fine on plexi if you go slow - plus is easy to center with the pilot drill!)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/010.jpg

3/4" at 1mm deep relief drilled. (Ignore the holes in the bottom for now, I'll explain those shortly)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/011.jpg

Touch sensor electrode in place (pre-sanding)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/012.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/013.jpg

Sanded penny - touch sensor electrode. I plan on painting it flat black to match the rest of the parts - polished nickle or even sanded nickle won't look right. I'll get to that sunday when its supposed to be like 45*F out! yay!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/014.jpg

Sanded Electrode in place. Still have to get gas for my torch to heat up the penny enough to solder some 24AWG copper stranded wire to it, and then paint the electrode. The wife is using my torch gas for the BBQ! Arg!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/015.jpg

Marking centers for holes to accomodate 2 5mm LEDs (1 white, 1 blue)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/016.jpg

Drill with a 7/64" (hey, I don't own metric bits!) bit and have just a little wiggle room (enough for the adhesive goop to sit in)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/017.jpg

Holes drilled (yes, that's what those holes were for)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/011.jpg

Chucking the key into my hand drill (the corded one) via a nail through the center to 'frost' the edges (evenly distribute light around the body of the key)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/018.jpg

Sanding with 220 grit emery paper (flexes a lot easier than regular aluminum-oxide sandpaper since its on a fabric-like base)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/019.jpg

"Frosted" key with electrode in place.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/020.jpg

2x5mm LEDs, 1 white, 1 blue.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/021.jpg

Key on LEDs (no illumination)... hrmm...
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/022.jpg

Key on LEDs (White illumination- a little too intense in one spot)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/023.jpg

Key on LEDs (blue illumination (which in real life doesn't have that nasty aqua spot, not sure how to photoshop that out)... same problem.)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/024.jpg

Time passes... I come in 3rd at a LAN tourney... I return home

Manufacture 3 more keys! Wrap them in aluminum tape to rid myself of 1.) Light leaking 2.) uneven intensity around the key ring.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/025.jpg

4 keys with electrodes (1 flipped, just to show what the keys are, its sanded on the other side)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/026.jpg

4 white LEDs with their tops sanded off. This also helps diffuse the light out of these narrow-angle LEDs a bit more, plus the fit into the holes I drilled perfectly now, I guess I drilled them just a little too shallow.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/027.jpg

1 white and 1 blue 5mm LED GOOPed into place on each key.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/028.jpg

Money Shots!

Lights on, white LED on (normal key state). A little intense in the one corner, but a lot of its the camera, and the angle.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/029.jpg

Lights off, white LED on (normal key state). A small degree of light leaking out the bottom, but nothing that won't be cured when I spray paint the electrodes black, and spray paint the key bottoms black to eliminate light leakage)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/030.jpg

Lights off, blue LED on (key touch state). It's a little less aqua and a little more blue in real life, but I was unable to get the effect I wanted in photoshop.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/staff/m/s/mss26/ars/goliath/31/031.jpg

So that's the state of affairs. I've redesigned the front panel baste plate to allow me to have these keys perfectly aligned by CADing in 1.05" (the extra 50 mils for the foil tape) holes into the base plate design. I'm waiting to hear back from Ben at mountain mods about the ETA to get the new parts in my hands. Until then, I'll keep chomping away at what I can do.

For the time being, I'm going to split the chassis control board off from the board that has all the case indicators. For one, it was getting too big for me to use my favorite board fab house, and 2, I've dediced it'll get its own PIC for controlling 8 RGB indicators for ANY friggin color I like.

Until next time (and I'm not sure when that will be...) Stay tuned, same bat forum, same bat post.

[Risky]

Cool, but you probably knew that!

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

one word. awesome.

[Starbuck3733T]

Jeeze guys, that was quick. I barely had the update posted on all 6 of its homes and I come back and I've got 2 replies already :wub: :wub: :wub:

[dutchcedar]

I'm impressed... :o

Gotta love the use of pennies and spade bits... B)

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

slow day at work. Getting 300 student nurses and midwives logged on to the network for the 1st time. A few cuties among them makes it bareable. :wub: :lol:

[Leeum]

This is some awesome work :D Keep it up ^_^

[fivecheebs]

Great Job Star :cool: They're going to look brilliant.

Does the white LED turn off on a key press at the same time the blue comes on?

[Starbuck3733T]

@DRB: Nurses rule. When I used to have to go support in the nursing school wing, I called it the land of milk and honeys!

@Dutch: thanks -- although I can say with certainty that I prefer automated tooling, I'm getting better at being more creative with what I have. I think I've reached a turning point with my tooling... if I don't have some tool or jig, I now have the equipment to MAKE said tool or jig.

@Leeum: I'll try, but I'm not sure where this is going next. It all depends on ben and the budget.

@Cheebsy: Not as the circuit is currently designed (I realized this as I was toggling the LEDs on and off, I thought the blue would make more of a difference) so I've got some small circuit changes to make. Probably just XOR gate's output instead of an OR gate. I also have the microcontroller able to turn off the key backlight (the white)... I'll have to consult my firmware ;) :eek:

[Knipex]

Once again I am totally lost :confused: but still impressed.

[Starbuck3733T]

It'll all make sense when it comes together. Ben rising - hurry the hell up!

[mnpctech]

Nice work Star!

Your photography has been real choice stuff as well. Especially the lighting B)

[Leeum]

What's the guy on Bit-Tech talking about, he seems to think your house got broken into :blink:

[fivecheebs]

How does it look with both leds light up star? Sounds complicated for a man of my knowledge to fix it up so they togle each other, but it would probably look better, hard to say with no pic of the two light up together.

[Starbuck3733T]

@V*Cheebs: It kinda looks like just the white. The blue gets washed out when I try to photograph it. I was driving back from the other building (across the 'uni' as some of you folks say) and thinking about how I was going to pull off the toggle. I don't need any additional circuitry, just another line or 2 of code on the PIC. If you look in the unchecked schematic in the lower right hand corner you'll see a transistor who's collector is tied to 4 LEDs. These are the white LEDs for the keys and they're controlled unison. All 4 of them will go off when one key is triggered (this is on purpose, indicating that none of the other keys will work until the controller is ready for input again).

Oh. crap. I just found a boo-boo. Those 4 LEDs are tied to GND on BOTH SIDES (eg: they won't light!). Must fix that when I get home. Thanks for stimulating muh brain!

@mnpcmodgod: Thank you very much. I'm really not sure what I've been doing lately with the lighting, I have the camera set on manual so I can knock down the flash intensity quite a bit and almost everything has been shot in macro mode. The 'incandescently' lit shots are the detail light on my big drill press (the little press doesn't have a light). The camera seems to do better w\ no flash in incandescent light. GOD i WANT that D70 we have here at work.

@Leeum: yeah, he's confused. I don't think everyone recognizes Rich.

[scopEDog]

I just pooped my pants :eek:

Getting the center of any round piece is always a thorn on my side. I usually end up eyeballing and comes out ok. I like your method better though :)

[Starbuck3733T]

I just pooped my pants :eek:

And I thought that was the smell of the chineese food down the hall. Of course, when you ARE chineese, its not chineese food, it's just food. When chinese people go out for food... do they say "lets eat american?".

*LOL* ... I suppose I should go tackle some of these IT projects.

[fivecheebs]

Thanks for stimulating muh brain!

hehe no probs :D.

BTW to find the center of a circle draw a triangle and make sure the points are on the edges. Measure the middle of each side and mark it. Join the oposite corners to the middle of each line. The cross in hte middle is the centre of the circle :). I prefer Stars method too though. B)

[zer0]

very nice cant wait to see what the hell those blue things are for... :D

[Starbuck3733T]

hehe no probs :D.

BTW to find the center of a circle draw a triangle and make sure the points are on the edges. Measure the middle of each side and mark it. Join the oposite corners to the middle of each line. The cross in hte middle is the centre of the circle :). I prefer Stars method too though. B)

Nice!

[Starbuck3733T]

very nice cant wait to see what the hell those blue things are for... :D

I assume you mean the glowing ones :)

[mnpctech]

Hey Star, you still looking for that 3M tape?

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: .... :lol:

http://prudhoe.codeword.com/mnpctech/HD100/HDWin/HDWinProgress/EagleWinProgress3M4041.jpg

I found a local 3M distributor and made BIG order last week...hehe

I'm gonna look into supplying this stuff IF I can get decent bulk pricing <_<

[fivecheebs]

holy crap! :lol:

when a company name becomes a measurement......

diameter of roll - 3M

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

lol :lol:

[fillip]

I know, you're making an entire case out of tape aren't ya, you sly dog you http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/tongue.gif

[Starbuck3733T]

Holy shit that's a lotta tape!

We'll see if I need it or not - I got word from ben that the new plexi parts will be in my hands next wednesday. I'm not going to try to route the groove relief for the hinge with my drillpress and end mill, or my router. I'm going to feed our resident master (like 20+ years) machinist lunch and show him what I need and watch and learn... hopefully. No more fowlups!

[zer0]

damn thats a lot of tape...

(i actualy think fillip has a coll idea that...)

[fillip]

Ahhhh you asked for it!

I'm gonna get a cheap generic case and wrap it in multi coloured electrical tape now. http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/tongue.gif
Modding @ its finest

[zer0]

should we expect a layer by layer work log lol

[Nexxo]

OK guys, wrap up the tape gags! :p

[fillip]

OK guys, wrap up the tape gags! :p
http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif shocking.

(Well, i did say electrical tape) http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/tongue.gif

[Starbuck3733T]

Almost There!
The touch keys are almost done, very little left. Final integration will be when I install/assembled the new bezel. Laser cut parts are on there way from Oregon (mountain mods - ben kicks ass!) and are slated to arrive on wednesday of next week (the 30th). I'd expect to have a new update a day or 3 after that.

Keys prepared for having their bottoms painted
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/01.jpg

Thank god for the warmer weather, but I still have to heat the paint up - rustoleum satin black sitting in my laundry sink (the black thing is the washers' waste water tube) full of hot water.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/02.jpg

Ready to rock!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/03.jpg

Keys painted
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/04.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/05.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/06.jpg

Oh... that worked well - money shot (note no light leaking out the bottom now)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/07.jpg

Death by electrodes?

The touch keys have to connect back to the QT150 somehow, so I've got to attach wire to my electrodes. The average soldering iron (and obviously not what I have - hakko 936) can't heat up a penny enough to solder to it... but a propane torch can!

Ready to solder - don't try this at home, kids. This is all the stuff I took outside to the concrete back porch. The wife would get kinda pissed if I burnt the house down, ya dig?
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/08.jpg

*Squints* look real close and you can see the propane flame. The bright side (pardon the pun) is that the solder burnt off all the crap on the penny - I had a feeling it would, which is why I didn't prep/polish them beforehand.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/09.jpg

First one soldered - 24AWG stranded copper for flexibility
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/10.jpg

All 4 soldred with tails.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/11.jpg

Even the shiny silver side wouldn't look real good amidst a sea of black which will be the front panel, so paint the tops of the electrodes. This won't alter the functionality of the QT150 as its a capacitive touch sensor, and is designed to have the electrode not in direct contact with the user interface.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/12.jpg

Closeup of the paint drying on an electrode.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/13.jpg

Car Key Gnomes?
Gotta attach the keys to the acrylic key backlight diffusers somehow... the answer - GOOP! I love this stuff! (Lick the q-tip, then pickup some goop, don't repeat!)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/14.jpg

Small slot milled in key to accomodate the fact that the wires aren't attached dead center to the electrodes.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/15.jpg

Slide the wire through the key
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/16.jpg

Apply goop...
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/17.jpg

Then push key down and embed into goop, keeping it as level as possible and centered in the indent.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/19.jpg

4 keys - goop curing
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/18.jpg

All done.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/32/20.jpg

all that remains is to put foil tape back on the keys (I removed it because it looked crappy with the painted foil tape) and install them into the bezel. I'll be leaving a 2 or 3mm gap between the top of the acrylic backlight diffuser and the top of the key so you don't see the foil tape's edges on the bezel... which is the other reason I nixxed the first round of tape.

Until next time!

[fillip]

Lookin' good ma' man!

The title changes are nearly as intriguing as teh updates http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/wink.gif

[ỒĊBłůē]

Kickass work log there Star ^_^

Can't wait to see the end result

[dutchcedar]

(56K- read a book) :lol: Now that I've finished "War and Peace" while watching your project develop, I'll have to find another tome. :lol:


Looking real nice... still don't understand it. :wacko:

[Starbuck3733T]

I know its a big DL for someone on dialup, but watch the video for the chassis controller a few pages back. The things I touch to trigger actions on the board is what these keys will become. the thing in the video is my prototype/development setup for the concept.

HAHA... better yet, i'm pulling a bachelor tonight (the wife and child gone to a sader dinner) so if you PM me your home # (I'm in eastern time, remember..) I'll use some of my vonage unlimited plan and call and explain! might be an interesting bs session regardless.

[fivecheebs]

Those keys are going to look great .... probably better than great. Good work manB)

[Starbuck3733T]

I just applied the foil tape and all is looking good at the moment. Long story short, I got off work early today because i saved the building from burning down. This is both bad, bad, and good. bad because of the fire and the place smells of dry chem extinguisher, bad because I got evacuated (no one was hurt, btw) and didn't have a chance to raid the scrap metal pile in the machine shop for some 1/4" AL plate stock to make my self a pump bracket (1 more eyesore to cute, eh?), but good because i got off work ;)

edit: the fire should make the news, i'll link up when i find a link ;)

[fivecheebs]

:eek:

smelly .... bummer ... early finish is always a bonus :D

[fillip]

Firefighter Star then hey?

Our hero http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/wub.gif

This control panel is gonna be wicked awesome!

[Starbuck3733T]

Sorta, and yes I hope :wacko:

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

Firestar!

In the UK you could get imprisoned for doing that to coins. Your not allowed to deface the queen. Projects looking great though star looking forward to seeing it all integrated into teh case.

[Starbuck3733T]

I can understand that, being under soveriegn rule and all.

The United States Codes under Title 18, Chapter 17, and Section 331, "prohibits the mutilation, diminution and falsification of United States coinage." However, this statute does not prohibit the mutiliation of coins if done without fraudulent intent or use. In other words, YES, it's LEGAL!

Yup ;) No federal pound me in the ass prison for me.

[Knipex]

Lookin good

but to be honest I miss the tape jokes.:D

And I want to see Star in the news.

[toby]

I don't really know whats going on but it looks impressive^_^

[Starbuck3733T]

And I want to see Star in the news.

I'd hook you up with the clip, but apparently the local news station didn't deem it big enough to put on the website, and the papers didn't cover it :rant:

I don't really know whats going on but it looks impressive^_^

What do I need to explain better? I think the final video if it in action will probably do the best for explaining. that's still a bit away, even after I do get them in the bezel.

[fillip]

So you wanna see our hero elect hey?!

Well, I came across this earlier...

http://themodsquad.co.uk/photos/firestar.jpg

:wub:

[fivecheebs]

OMGROFLMFAO!:lol:

classic!

[fillip]

/Fillip breaks into song

'I need a hero! I'm holding out for a hero...'


:lol:

[fivecheebs]

LOL

Man we need a more apropriate lauguing smiley. >>:lol:<< doesnt cut it lately with all these funnies.

:lol: :unsure:

[Starbuck3733T]

You buncha crackers! :D^:D*:D^:D

Nice photoshop work there chief. (pun intended) Now 'chop him so he's taller and the arms are bigger around (I have to admit, I'm built like an M1-A1 tank)

[fillip]

PS work was lucky tbh.

I searched for a fireman photo that I could match your face upto and got lucky after a couple of pages.
The face is from the Big Screen Gaming thread and you can barely make out the details on your face so I had to play around with contrast and brightness levels then try and remove a big shadow from your forehead using the clone and heal tools alternately.
Fortuitously it turned out ok for a rush job, but lengthening the arms and making you stockier is well beyond my abilities.

[Starbuck3733T]

So thaaaaaaaaatts where you got the image. I couldn't quite place it. No worries mate, good joke.

[fillip]

Yip. Feel free to remove the pic when you:

a) Have had enough of the joke
b) Get fed up of seeing it
c) Cluters the thread too much.

:D

[fivecheebs]

haha ... i thoguht you put those marks on his face to make him look dirty like he had just fought a fire!

[fillip]

haha ... i thoguht you put those marks on his face to make him look dirty like he had just fought a fire!Pure fluke.

Just left it when i noticed it looked like dust smudges.

[mnpctech]

Glad to hear youre OK Starbuck!

I see we have another PS chopper in our midst ^ ^_^

[Starbuck3733T]

yup, Starbuck is ok! (In fact, so is Matt!) Thanks for the concern :)

[Starbuck3733T]

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1115/ is something I remembered from way back. My voltages are a little wiggly and that's something I probably need to fix to get any higher in my oc. I may build one of these for my IC7, but not using the water chamber design... just a copper pipe with barstock 'pads' stuck to the back of the FETs. I'd like to get some baseline readings on my VRM FET temps before I install it, but it looks like an easy couple-hour project to build. I hope to have LOTS of stuff to do next weekend, because I'll have the whole thing to myself - the wife and child are visiting someone in philadelphia... and I'm an antisocial modder ;)

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

So you wanna see our hero elect hey?!

Well, I came across this earlier...

http://themodsquad.co.uk/photos/firestar.jpg

:wub:
There a bot os a Simon Cowell waistline thing going on there too. :lol:

[mnpctech]

the wife and child are visiting someone in philadelphia...

Yea, goood time for progress! (Crank da Tunes!)

[Starbuck3733T]

correction there, its actually NEXT weekend, not this coming one.

and yes, you are oh so right.

[Starbuck3733T]

Here's a little preview as to what I've been fiddling with before the acrylic pieces got here (which it did today!).

If you want the gritty details, hop on over to the thread (http://www.wizdforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1428)

Pics:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/33/01.jpg

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/33/02.jpg

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/33/03.jpg

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/33/04.jpg

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/33/05.jpg

[ỒĊBłůē]

Any idea what temps you're getting on the back of your board?

[Starbuck3733T]

Not sure, but I'll use my infrared temp gun to measure the temperature before installing it. The guy on the overclockers.com (article linked a few posts ago) had his running at 74*C - and he already had front-side waterblocks!

edit: clarification

[ỒĊBłůē]

Yeah, I read that thread. Toastie! :blink:

[Link removed]

[fillip]

The guy in the overclockers.com article stuck a perm' temp probe to the back of the board didn't he or has my memory got that bad... http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/confused.gif
It'd be interesting to know what the overall cooling drop is from non-cooled Vregs --> front cooled Vregs --> Vregs cooled both sides

[Starbuck3733T]

Well, I intend to know the drop between non-waterblocked and backside waterblocked! :) the frontside waterblock version on my board is too difficult to build.

[jaguarking11]

Nice build, I been keeping track of your build from another forum. I must congratulate you on your work.

[Starbuck3733T]

Thanks :)

[Starbuck3733T]

Door Mounting
Remember when I broke the base plate for the door a few updates ago? Well, I got the new door and marked out lines on either end to align my straight edge for the flat side of the router to ride against. I'm using a 1/2" carbide tipped slot cutting bit on low speed. First step was to cut the deeper portion of the indent for the knuckle of the hinge to sit in.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/001.jpg

Then cut the more shallow, wide porition for the leaf of the hinge to mount in.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/002.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/003.jpg

Closeup shot of both indents cut. Its a little ugly from the router, but it matters not. Also, don't sweat the fact that the protective paper covering is still there. It'll stay as long as possible.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/004.jpg

Mounted with tape, as it's not yet screwed into the hinge.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/005.jpg

Bottom hole for relief of the bolt that holds the hinge to the main chassis.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/006.jpg

Top hole - and yes, I measured 13.7mm when I meant 12.7mm. Measure twice, drill once, darnit! (doesn't matter, you won't see it behind the smoked plexi front up top)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/007.jpg

Front plexi's taped on to check alignment of the optical drive hole (for burner) and slot (for DVD reader)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/008.jpg

Oh yeah, slides out with just enough clearence.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/009.jpg

Badda bing
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/010.jpg

Badda boom
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/011.jpg

It's a...
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/012.jpg

...Beautiful thing
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/013.jpg

Next step: mount the face plates to the base

Mark holes for set screws
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/014.jpg

Drill hole, tap it, then insert set screw.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/015.5.jpg

Presto, mounted! Since the bottom part of the face plate will be painted to match the rest of the case, the mounting hardware had to be flush. It will be glued (probably with goop) along with the screws, but the screws had to be fitted to maintain the alignment between the face plate and the base plate, so the optical drives lined up properly. The holes will be filled, and then the whole thing painted. Strong, stealth mount!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/015.jpg

Untape the whole thing, and the base plate is held on... Look ma, no tape!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/016.jpg

Mark the base plate location for a hole that will be tapped for a screw to join the hinge to the base plate.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/017.jpg

Back side of said hole, with aluminum hardware screwed into base plate, plus a relief hole in the hinge so that it'll close up flat.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/018.jpg

Base plate mounted to hinge.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/019.jpg

Open...
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/020.jpg

...Sesame!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/021.jpg

Nice fit and finish (lines up real well)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/022.jpg

Woooo
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/023.jpg

ooooT! (yeah, it does look a bit off - the black plexi is so black that it looks like there's a gap but its so dark that you don't see the plexi itself. This stuff is a pain to photograph. :mad:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/024.jpg

Reattach bottom face plate to base plate, photograph with fingerprints and all (will be remedied, of course)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/025.jpg

Opening...
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/026.jpg

...Open!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/027.jpg

VFD Mounting

The headcap screws I have are just a shade larger than the holes in the VFD, but no problem. Busted out the round file (yes, a round file, not the garbage can!) and enlarged them all. Hint: chucking the round file in your drill makes things go reaaaaaaaal fast ;) Be careful not to go too far!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/028.jpg

Now I couldn't mount the screen flat to the back of the base plate, as its too thick. So I needed spacers. Hrmm... The old pen casing trick!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/029.jpg

Moments later after a date with my bandsaw...
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/030.jpg

And mounted.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/031.jpg

Hiding behind the top face plate.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/032.jpg

Animation + flash = bad.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/033.jpg

Temporary install of 2 layers of blue filter.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/034.5.jpg

A few snapshots while I'm on the phone with the wife -- "what are you doing??" ;)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/034.jpg

Money shot - oooh baby!
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/035.jpg
(And you can see all the wiring because the side of the case is open - that'll be taken care of once I put all the stuff back in).

Font test on the display (well, by fonttest.bmp from my custom VFD software)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/036.jpg

And the same thing without flash. The color here is more true to life, but its a bit blurry minus the flash)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/037.jpg

Now... how to keep that door closed.
Magnets! The wife was kind enough to donate some of that magnet-on-a-roll to my project. It's not in one continuous piece because it would interfere with the cages/rails for the drive mounts, so it has to be cut up into evenly spaced pieces.

On the side.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/038.jpg

On the top (I can have a big piece there since there's no drive or cage in that spot)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/34/039.jpg

So that's that for this update. I haven't mounted the touch keys (as I'm sure its obvious what those round holes below the VFD are for) because I can't permanently attach the top face plate yet. That would make painting the bottom more difficult, so I'll hold off on them for now. So my next immediate step is to glue to the bottom in place after getting everything nice and clean. Then, I suppose, its off to paint. I take forever doing paint, because I finally HAVE to commit to my window design (which still ain't cut!)

Feedback, please. Even if it's just "wow" or "that's ugly"...

[fillip]

HOLY CRAP thats impressive!! http://wizdforums.co.uk/images/smilies/eek.gif

Sweet work dude, best use of smoked plexi i've seen to date.

[mnpctech]

Definately deserves a Wow! Seeing the display show through the beZel dooR is pure class :cool:

[scopEDog]

Ooh yeah the machine is coming to life..love the clean look bro :wub:

[fivecheebs]

Thats S**t HOT! Its going to look amazing when teh touch keys are all lit up behind it.

[jedimas729]

I totally want one of the VFD's for my case!!! The whole thing is awsome! Good Job!! :D

[furious trout]

loving your work man
That rocks so hard :eek::eek:

[dutchcedar]

Cool schtuff, Starbuck. B)

You show how working with plexiglas can be nerve-racking... :wacko:

Beautiful work.

[gumby]

all the fingerprints... but i still think it's pimp.:D

[Wreckless]

Great work, the chopped pen spacers are genius!

[Leeum]

Bladdy hell Star. That's amazing :wub::D

[Knipex]

It lives.......:cool: :cool:

Looking seriously good.

[ỒĊBłůē]

Looking good Star.

Can't wait to see it all come together with your touch panel through that schmokin' plexi :cool:

[zer0]

i must say... (pause as i try to stop drooling) that that is a damn fine looking front cover...

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

:eek: <-- Says it all!


I had a though about plexi the other day while thinking about a bauhaus case mod... You know that clear film you get for putting on car windows? not the tinted stuff but the film thats supposed to make your windows unbreakable to stop chavs stealing your stereo. If you put that over your plexi it would probably help prevent fingerprints and scratches.

[Starbuck3733T]

@fillip: If I'm one thing, I'm creative. I'm glad that this is working out the way I had expected it too.

@mnpctech: thank you - your reaction means a lot! I feel like 'my style' is finally starting to show on this project, where before it was my anal retentive tendancies that were ;)

@ED: You betcha. Next part on the bezel will really kick it into high gear! (indicators + touch keys)

@cheebsy: I grinned ear to ear when I first read that comment - I aim to please (even if I do take forever to make an update)

@Jedi: the VFDs are expensive (that thing was just shy of $200) but they are soooo worth it!

@Trout: that's darn near the reaction I had as the thing went together. "Fscking Money!! :eek:" (assemble next part) "Damn! :eek:"

@Dutch: Thanks man - I hope to be doing some less delicate but still cool plexi stuff down the line. Maybe even coordinating with you ;)

@Gumby: the 'prints are a pain, but working with gloves is a pain too... and they do come off easily enough. I'm thinking of ordering this Novus polish stuff to help keep dust off and get rid of the prints

@Wreckless: I've used the trick before - custom mobo staffofs in a conversion I did (not documented). And welcome to the board - go posts in the hellos and intros sticky thread at the top of general discussion!

@Leeum: It got a bit bloody, and I dropped the f-bomb when it did ;)

@Knipex: "A living, breathing, organism"... perhaps.

@OCBlue: might be a while on the panel, paint needs to be done first near as I can figure...

@zer0: *Starbuck3733T hands zer0 a towl... :D

@WangSlayingMonkey: I'm going to have to look into that stuff... that's the downfall of the buttons... the prints. But still, she'll clean up nice for show and prints are easy enough to maintain. Novus makes some stuff that's supposed to keep static off too, maybe it'll help with the 'prints?



Thanks guys! You're all awesome motivators!

[zer0]

thanks i guess i have to say i was in too much in aww to say anything smart...

anyways tho sorry about the drool hope it washes out...

/me hands Starbuck3733T back a dool covered towl

[jaguarking11]

awsome mod. I am keeping track of it in two forums and man it looks better everytime I see it. Updates is what I wana see tho... I know im impatient bastard but oh well.

[Nexxo]

That looks so tasty it shouldn't be allowed...

[Starbuck3733T]

"Movement!"
Yeah, like in the alien movies... just when you think there's nothing around, there looks like there's nothing around, and all is calm, a blip on the tactical scanner appears. In this case, the blip is this meager update.

Front Panel Glue-Up

After thinking about it for a good long while, I decided that using goop to glue the bottom outer plate to the base frame (to augment the set screw fasteners) wasn't such a bad idea. Off I went...

Off the front of the box, set screws removed.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/01.jpg

Wiping down the surface with a tack-cloth
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/02.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/03.jpg

Goop! (Plumbers and all the other varieties, it's basically all the same.) This stuff is nice and sticky and should bond the front together no-problem.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/04.jpg

Goop Applied
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/05.jpg

Parts mated together... at which point I put the set screws back in so that everything lines up A-OK.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/06.jpg

Cover in a rag, wood blocks to distrubte the weight, and weights plus some extra 'liquid' weight.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/07.jpg

The whole thing stuck together just fine, but you'll have to wait till I get the set screw holes bondo'd shut and the whole thing shot with automotive (lacquer) primer before I show it again.


Front Ports

Before when I sleeved and extended the front panel firewire and USB I never dyed the parts. Zittware's "Dye Everything" attitudte motivated me to go back and dye it black.

Taped up and ready for dye
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/08.jpg

All dyed up :)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/09.jpg

This part got scrapped
Basically, I messed up. I milled the slots for the front port holder too big, and it ended up looking like butt. I tried to put some of mnpctech's famous rubber moulding around it to clean it up, but the bend radius was too tight. The part got scrapped, and I'm also scrapping the front panel headphone jacks... I never work on this beast with headphones, nor do I ever plug a microphone in. I originally put it in there for completeness' sake, but I've decided to scrap that idea.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/10.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/11.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/12.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/13.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/14.jpg
http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/ars/goliath/35/15.jpg

To put a long story short as to the lack of progress, I've been extremely busy at work on several fronts (replacing our wired infrtastructure, rolling out wireless, moving to a different backup software, and training new workstudy) and haven't felt like doing much once I get home. hopefully that'll change.

Till next time...

Edit: Fixed Image tag locations... doah!

[zer0]

looks good to me... its ok eatch and every one of us has a life (except me of corse... i live breath and well crap mods...(ewwww))

[mnpctech]

Fabbed beZels rock :cool:

Yes, movement indeed :)

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

one step at a time.

[dutchcedar]

Looking good, Star.

Don't ya just hate having to redo something? But in the end, you're usually glad you did and realize its much easier the second time around... <_<

[Knipex]

I hate do overs.

But in this case I think it was worth it.

[mnpctech]

Stars not "doing over" or "redoing", hes refining it. :)