Modding a cuplex pro for (GASP) 1/2" use! Hybridized!

[Starbuck3733T]

http://www.personal.psu.edu/mss26/cuplexpro_478.jpg

Yes, its probably going to make me go to hell... but fsck() me, this DD maze 4 blows. So, along with the other system revisions I intend to make, I'd like to mod this beast for use with 1/2" ID barbs. And not these wimpy 1/2" barbs that only have, oh, a 1/4" hole in the bottoms yet fit 1/2" tubing. I mean HALF INCH, STRAIGHT THROUGH. That means a 5/8" at least OD.

2 problems: I don't think there is enough room on the top of the block to do this... but I'd need physical dimenisons of the plug and cool connectors to to make sure. And I will (obviously) be constructing a custom top for cuplex.

AC's site says the copper part is 53mm^2. I printed out a 53mm^2 black 'spot' and it looks like with a 1/2" inlet the pins on the core would be almost completely covered by the fitting. I think that's a good thing. More pins hit = more turbulance = better cooling.

So where does this 1/2" go from here, you ask...

Why, into 4x plug and cools for the block outlet!

1 to GPU to res
1 to Disks to res
1 to Northbridge to res
1 direct back to res (for future expansion)

-- and for those who care...
res to pump inlet via 5/8" (the ehiem 1250 loooves big inlets for high flow, talking 20lpm @ 2 meters) to radiator via 7/16" (see the thread on pro/forums) to the block via 7/16" over 1/2" barbs.

Thoughts? :D

edit: stupid me, image tag...

[Knipex]

Mad........:D

[Starbuck3733T]

Could somebody measure the plug and cool connector's diameter for me pretty please? ... the G1/4 version preferably.

[Fibbles]

Well, there is one little issue I can see/imagine... The off centered hole (used as the outsie) is right next to the copper rim of the internal block. The current 1/8" (I thinky) threaded hole for the fittings is actually a bit over the end of the edge. You will need a custom top.

The block is 2" by an itsy bitsy 1 line off the 2" mark on a tape measure (I'm TERRIBLE with measurements in finer detail than "inch"). After counting, there are 16 lines after inch 1 that ends with inch 2, and so on. So, yes, it's 1 line over the 2" mark.

I should probably learn to figure out what I'm tryign to explain is, eh?

Oh yeah, the way it's oriented in the pic, the 2" was measured length wise (from holes on 1 end to the holes on the other), and the itty bitty 1 line over 2" was taken from the up><down "position".

Sorry for the :confused:

[Starbuck3733T]

Fsck() the 'english' system. Metric is the way to go.

What I is the diameter (from edge to edge of a circle going through the center point) of a G 1/4" plug and cool.

[Fibbles]

1.1 cm (if that doesn't exist...) The Cuplex uses 1/8" though, and the diameter of that is 0.7 cm.

Uh, wierdness. The actual diameter from edge to edge of the 1/4" Plug and Cool fitting I have (a blue rimmed one) is only 0.6 cm. If I measure from the outter edge to outter edge it's 1.1 cm. On both a 1/4" and 1/8" Plug and Cool fitting, they have the nearly the same ID, of 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Of course I could be confused...

[Starbuck3733T]

Not ID, OD. The "width" of the fitting. Trying to figure out if i've got enough room to use the 1/2 ID barb and have the plug and cools surrounding it.

[Fibbles]

Yeah, but I saw that no matter what size thread on the fitting was used, both are for 6/8mm hose. It's the same with the compression fittings Innovatek uses vs the smaller ones, there's no big diffy between them, wether they're 1/4" or 1/8".

Anyway, the g1/4" is 11mm wide, and the g1/8" thread is 9mm. That makes both threaded holes on the standard cover 9mm wide. Unless I did something terribly wrong, placing a true 1/2" barb into the middle should give about 13mm's on all sides, so you could place as many Plug and Cools that will fit.

There are (AFAIK) 4 different versions of Plug and Cool fittings used. The widest ones are the metal rimmed ones. They can have up to a 17mm base. Next size down are the blue rimmers with a 14mm base. Further down are the basic black rimmed fittings (as shown in the pic) they're about 13mm at the widest point. Theres a newer revision out that are thinner and longer than the basic black rims, but since I don't have one on me, I don't know how much thinner. Remember though, my measurements aren't exact, but they haven't been rounded down at all. You could gain an mm or 2 if you chip off some of the copper on the inside of the O-ring. I used 1/4" threaded fittings for all the measurements.

I hope that helps somewhat.

[Starbuck3733T]

That's exactly the kind of thing I was after!

Nother 'odd Q.. do the G1/4 and G1/8 plug and cools differ in the amount of water they'll let through? I don't think so, since they both use the 8/6mm tube in the end, I can't imagine the hole on the inlet is anysmaller than 6mm.

I've attached a pic of what I was going to use for plug and cools on the block.

quite frankly I'm surpised i'm not being burnt at the stake by the AC purists ;)

So those are the 17mm at widest variety?

[Knipex]

There in inches but you can convert


http://www.legris.com/pneumatic_fittings.htm

[fillip]

There in inches but you can convert


http://www.legris.com/pneumatic_fittings.htm
Long live the Imperial system :p

[Knipex]

1 stupid inch = 25.4 reall millimeters.

[Starbuck3733T]

There in inches but you can convert


http://www.legris.com/pneumatic_fittings.htm

You have models for that legris site for what I pictured?

[Fibbles]

The widest one I've got is 17mm. It seems that the 1/4" ones are fatter based than the 1/8" ones found at AC's site. A 3rd party supplier is probably your best bet. The one you posted looks like the 14mm blue ones I have.

Look for some of Risky's posts on fittings, he's got info on resources too.

[EDIT] After re-checking, it came out to 15mm. So, any fitting from 13 - 15mm should work and fit. My smallest based 1/4" fitting is still 16mm :(

Also, in the pic of the Cuplex Pro and on the stock cover, the outter fittings base is on the line over the O-ring. Its internals are inside the block, so that would give a few mm's The metal rim fitting I have looks to barely fit, but I don't have a true 1/2" fitting so I can't check for sure.

[Knipex]

You have models for that legris site for what I pictured?Sorry Star. My link was incomplete

try here

http://www-1.legris.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay

Edit..

Damn now that I look at it again its the wrong fitting. I have a catalouge in the office from this place (http://www.flomax.ie/default.asp) and it has dimensions for each fitting. I will scan the page for you tomorrow or PM me your postal address and I will send you a catalogue..

[Starbuck3733T]

Scanning the page is just fine Kev. Much appreciated and no apologies needed.

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

Star when i was looking for fittings RS (http://rswww.com) was a great site as most of the fittings have a technical diagram with them. You cant direct link but most fittings are under:

All Products | Mechanical | Pneumatics - Quick Connect Couplings

All Products | Mechanical | Hose/Ducting/Fittings/Accessories

[fivecheebs]

This is a mad crazy idea! I say burn him at the steak! ;)

Nah seriously i cant wait to see you pull this off, Good luck dude, ill be watching :eek:

[fillip]

The only thing that concerns me is the integrity of the poly carb top once it's been drilled out and re-tapped. Any idea how much you're gonna be left to play with between the inlet and outlet? :unsure:

[Starbuck3733T]

I really do not know if this will work out, as I said to fibbles in PM. I'm checking out my options at the moment. I should build my own jet impingment block for this, and hopefully santa will bring me the tools I asked for. My christmas vacation will be spent in the workshop and playing halflife2.

Oh, and making at least 2 of those max1668 dimm boards. I know, I know, I've been dragging my feet. I've finally got everything unpacked to do it though!

[Starbuck3733T]

Found what I wanted on RS site. Legriss LF 3000 series.
http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/images/C812235-09.jpg

[Starbuck3733T]

straight:
http://www-1.legris.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1249&prmenbr=361&MesureTube=MM%20&Poids=KG&Onglet=2&DN=MM&PN=BAR&DEBIT=L&DIM=MM

3101-08-13 for the G1/8, Width (K) of 14mm
3101-08-17 for the G1/4, Width (K) of 17.5mm (no, I will not use a bloody comma for a decimal point) ;)

I'm more inclined to use the G1/4 version as its less likely to restrict flow in any shape or form, as this cad diagram isn't really clear

http://www-1.legris.com/Legris/ProduitBM/3101b.gif

OD on both those parts: 8mm
F2 (which looks like the hole the water goes through??): 5mm and 6mm respectively, hence my hesitation to use the G1/8.... its going into 6mm ID tubing, why choke it if you don't have to.

[Starbuck3733T]

90*
http://www-1.legris.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1414&prmenbr=361

3199-08-13: G1/8"
3199-08-17: G1/4"

Oooh...
45*!
http://www-1.legris.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1334&prmenbr=361
3133-08-13: G1/8"
3199-08-17: G1/4"

Those are cool.

[fivecheebs]

oooh indeed .... I like those 45 degree ones

[Da_Rude_Baboon]

(no, I will not use a bloody comma for a decimal point) ;)
Why would you use a comma? :confused:

[fillip]

Why would you use a comma? :confused: Imperial system uses a comma to denote a decimal place.

Using a full stop (period for you in the US :p) is common to the Metric system which is inherently American - i believe.

Instead of fabricating a custom block you could always do a custom top, though if you're in danger of leaving to small an amount of material between inlet/outlet i s'pose you'd have to go the way of a metal top, which would be a shame.

No worries on those Dimm boards, you've had it hectic (understated i'm sure) in the last few months, and me and Nexxo know the wait is well worth it ^_^ - my address will have probably changed again by the time they're done though as i'm getting new accomodation @ uni *DOH*

[furious trout]

Imperial system uses a comma to denote a decimal place.

Using a full stop (period for you in the US :p) is common to the Metric system which is inherently American - i believe.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metric_system

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_unit

^_^

[fillip]

*put in my place* :o

So it's French hey... good to be famous for something else besides onions, snails and socialism i guess.
And commas are metric!!! :blink:

I have so little to thank my school education for :mad:

[Fibbles]

What would happen to the Pro if you were to give it a Cuplex EVO makeover?

The Culex Pro is rather compact, but what would happen if you used an accelerator nozzle of some sort directly under the intake and "rained" water down on the jets? The intake would be about 30mm above the jets. Perhaps it wouldn't be EVO like since the EVO is more of a copper chunk with channels and such, but would that design suck? How high would the jets need to be if the design is ok? Where would the outlet go?

Anyway, those black end fittings posted above look a lot like the 1/8"ers I have.

[Starbuck3733T]

What would happen to the Pro if you were to give it a Cuplex EVO makeover?

The Culex Pro is rather compact, but what would happen if you used an accelerator nozzle of some sort directly under the intake and "rained" water down on the jets? The intake would be about 30mm above the jets. Perhaps it wouldn't be EVO like since the EVO is more of a copper chunk with channels and such, but would that design suck? How high would the jets need to be if the design is ok? Where would the outlet go?


I could do that, but the basic principal (AFAIK) of the jet impingment means that the jets do have to fit into the cups. Making a jet block would be so very, very fun though. If santa brings me the belt sander, slide vise, end mills, and bandsaw I'll do it over vacation. It may not see use for a while though.

If I can't cram all of this shcnit into the top as it stands, I'll make a thicker top and drill down at an angle to the central chamber so I can put the barbs out further. It might look pretty cool with a 1" thick plexi top. (my arstechnica secret santa got me a 12"x12"x1" thick chunk of clear plexi!!!)

In allr eality i really wish I could get some of the outside parts for goliath done, but people just seem to be sititng on their asses and not answering my fscking() inquiries!

[fivecheebs]

Could allways take some inspiration from alphacools NexXos XP block with its 3 layers. Basically the middle layer moves the inlet from its real position one side of the block to directly over the microchanels in the center of the block, Might give you a bit more room to breath so to speak.

[Fibbles]

Err, I didn't neccesarily mean you, as in Starbuck, I just wondered if something like that would work.

Whatever you decide to do, as I've stated before, I WANNA SEE! ^_^